Disc Brake Conversion

[Derek]

So a few weeks ago I decided to get it over with and laid down the money for a front disc brake conversion kit. I bought this one from J-Bugs as it came with new spindles rather than a bolt on bracket. 

I started off blocking the back tires and jacking up the front and putting some jack stands under the torsion tube. Got the wheels off no problem and started working to get the driver side apart. The old drums and brake assemblies came of easily and I sat them under the car with the brake lines still attached just so they wouldn’t leak all over. 

Tried getting the ball joints separated from the old spindle and started having troubles, they were pretty well stuck in place (even with some “gentle” hammer persuasion to try and break them free) and I was only able to break the upper joint loose before I gave up (temporarily of course) and moved on the the passenger side. 

On the passenger side I had no troubles and all the ball joints came out with ease, the hardest part being separating the trailing arms enough to get the spindle off. I also got the new spindle on bolting on the lower ball joint and pushing the lower trailing arm down with my foot to get the upper ball joint seated. (The trailing arms have spring pressure towards each other and that was the best way I had available to me although there must be some better way as that was physically quite challenging)

Then comes the end of the weekend so I just do a few little things after work and still trying to get the old ball joints loose on the driver side. I also realized I would need to get new bearings as it would be near impossible to get the old bearing races out of the drums. (I would order these along with the kit next time, as well as new ball joints or even just the BJ boots)

Got a ball joint spreading tool and busted the lower BJ loose but ruined the boot in doing so. Still couldn’t get the tie rod BJ loose so I took it out and got a new one along with a new ball joint for the lower trailing arm (couldn’t find any boots locally and didn’t want to wait for shipping) 

The next weekend I got everything apart finally. While I had it all torn down I also took out two of the small springs from each torsion tube. Putting the driver side together was the same as the passenger with having to spread the trailing arms to get the spindle on. I got the new bearing races in the discs via large sockets and a hammer which worked quite well actually. Packed the new bearings and put the discs on followed by the calipers (all of which go together just like any modern disc brakes) I did have to transfer the lug studs from the drums to the discs.

Overall it was a two weekend job and the stopping power is vastly improved. I would however do some things different next time such as ordering more parts in advance and replacing more of the high wear parts even if not yet necessary. I would get the torsion tube seals, ball joint boots (depending on the condition of the current joints), new roller bearings inner and outer, and new inner grease seals all in advance as well as making sure to have all the tools necessary including a grease gun and clean grease. 

If I had known I’d need all those extra parts that didn’t come with the kit I could have done the conversion in one weekend.

Once I get new valve stems as discussed here I’ll have her up and driving again finally!

[edward ericson]

NICE GOING! Congrats on a job well done.

[billnparts]

What Ed said…

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

[Derek]

I did come across one problem that is due to removing the springs as mentioned above. The passenger side tie rod sometimes rubs against the bottom of the fiberglass (where the body and fender meet) This is flanged for the bolts so it will be an easy fix. 

Has anyone else come across this or is it something with the kit and/or assembly of mine?

[Author]

Posts