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Looking to replace exhaust headers and muffler as rust is so bad can no longer weld holes. I currently have this system
https://www.appletreeauto.com/ECONOMY-EXTRACTOR-SYSTEM/
But would be interested in getting some input on what others are using or systems to avoid. Want to avoid ordering a system online and the finding that configuration of splash pan or fenders obstruct installation and I have to carry out fiberglass surgery (may have to contract Edsnova for consultation) or return the “used” system at my cost
I have a FF MiGi with stock 1600 engineDavid B Dixon
Port Perry ON CA
SabineHey, David, several of us have had good luck with the Empi 3487. It’s not a performance exhaust; I wouldn’t put it on anything bigger than a 1776. But it doesn’t seem to hurt a 1500 or 1600. It’s also compact, easy to install, sounds good and, as a bonus, puts the exhaust tip exactly where it should be on an MG TD. I ran mine for several years ahead of my Subaru swap. No problems.
It really tucks under nicely.
Another vote for Empi. It won’t break the bank, and looks similar to TD exhaust except underneath.
I installed the Empi 3487 muffler as recommended and it did fit well. Only complaint was that connection to preheat tubes were not open and some alignment issues were encountered with flange that was corrected with a sawzall and MIG welder. Problem that has now been encountered is with heat from muffler, it has bubbled the paint on the splash pan. Any suggestions to minimize future paint issues. Is there a heat shield that I can put between the muffler and the splash pan?
David B Dixon
Port Perry ON CA
SabineDavid,
I had the same problem and tried all sorts of heat shield tape and other things to eliminate the problem and in the end it I found a heat shield at a junk yard from a modern SUV that shields the CAT from the bottom of the car – I assume it contains some type of very protective product that keeps the 1500-2000 degree CAT from catching the car on fire. Cheap and worked for me. I went to a Pik&Pay yard and kept looking till I found a SUV mostly upside down and the exhaust already taken out.
I painted the bottom of my splash pan with white “high heat” paint, then applied the high heat tape from Advance Auto. No trouble since, and the Suby muffler is even closer and hotter than the VW one was.
Ed
Did you apply the tape to the splash pan or to the muffler?Dale
Unfortunately we don’t have Pik & Pay wrecking yards here. Years ago one could wander through the yards, remove what you needed and then pay at the gate. Last time I went to a salvage yard to find some wheels for winter tires was told that due to liability and insurance costs only employees were allowed in the yards. Suspect the heat shield you are recommending was purchased at a minimal cost so it is not likely something that a yard would consider having an employee spend time removing. We have two yards in the township so will see if anything has changed since I last went. Did you afix the shield to the pan or to the muffler?David B Dixon
Port Perry ON CA
SabineDavid,
They way mine is set up it is the exhaust pipe that is against the apron vs the muffler. I ended up wrapping the pipe with exhaust heat wrap and then wired the shield to the pipe with stainless exhaust clamps used for the heat wrap and it worked just fine for the last two years.
Decided to try the product recommended by Ed, found another product that seems to offer the same features as heat shield. Should have it early next week so will let all know how it works out https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00029KC2K/ref=pe_3034960_233709270_TE_item
David B Dixon
Port Perry ON CA
SabineI put the shieldy sticky stuff on the bottom of the splash pan. I don’t think the stuff I bought is made to stick to exhaust pipes.
Key thing is not to let the exhaust pipe touch anything fiberglass. If it does, bend it down. If you can’t bend it with your “attitude adjustment bar” then break out the heat hammer (i.e. acetylene helper) or visit your local muffler shop with a sixer of Bud in-hand. Those boys make things fit all day every day; no point in reinventing the wheel.
Once the hot pipes are at least an inch away from any glass you won’t burn nothing.
Ed, do you have any photos of your Subaru exhaust? I would like to know how you routed it and plumbed it from the heads through the muffler and then out the back. I know you have a handy dandy vehicle lift so can you get some photos from the bottom side too? I am finally retiring at the end of the year so will have time to work on all my projects. The MGTD replica being the first in line.
There’s a shot of the whole system about halfway down this blog post. Basically it runs from passenger side port, forward and then under the engine/trans split, picks up the driver’s side and dumps straight into the cat (which my exhaust guy tried to talk me out of installing). From there it bends back down along the passenger side valve cover and turns left into the muffler, and on the other side the tail pipe turns right 90 degrees and out under the bumper on the passenger side.
I had the shop make this using the original exhaust flanges and front converter (there were two) from the 1995 Legacy donor car. Much easier and cheaper than trying to adapt an after market Subaru header, though I’m sure I give up a couple hp at the top end because it’s in no way an equal-length extractor.
Hope this helps.
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