Home › Forums › MGTD Kit Cars › Chevy/Ford Kits › Fender reinstall
- This topic has 12 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 7 years ago by billnparts.
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October 22, 2017 at 7:20 pm #304213
I took my fenders off my Ford Fiber Fab for painting and replacing beading. Putting front fenders back on they look too low over tire, especially the left one. I have adjusted everything up as far as I can. Maybe it was like this before and I just never noticed. Now it looks like I might have a tire rubbing problem, I didn’t before. If I do have a problem I’m thinking that the headlight mount also controls the height of the fender. If I cut them off and re drill that would raise the fender but might be stressed. Could that cause cracking? I see no other option if the fenders rub.
October 22, 2017 at 7:45 pm #304214Hi: I am at the point of just fitting fenders for the first time. One of the main supports on my ford TD are the short front bumper extensions. They are slotted and can be angled to point up or down slightly. If you can post a few pictures that would help.
October 22, 2017 at 11:04 pm #304215I had thought about that but those bumper extensions are what the bumper bolts to. I am thinking if I move one of them up then my bumper will not be level. However I just thought that you could move it up and then make the bolt hole for the bumper slotted so that end of the bumper could be lowered to correct position.
October 23, 2017 at 3:42 am #304216Can you post a photo? Or a link to a photo.
How does it look? Is it symmetrical when looked at straight on?
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"October 23, 2017 at 9:18 am #304217The car is in my shop and I can’t get far enough away from it to get photo of both fenders at same time. Maybe it has been like this all the time and nothing is wrong. I’ll post back when I get it all together and see if they rub.
Leo
October 23, 2017 at 7:31 pm #304218In my initial build I allowed the tire rub to dictate the contour of the fender. It would rub a while until the fender was no longer a smooth continuous arc, then I would place tape that would create a smooth arc and file away anything below the tape. After a while the fenders no longer rubbed.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"October 23, 2017 at 8:43 pm #304219Because Race Car!
October 25, 2017 at 10:36 pm #304225I hoped to insert a photo here but I can’t seem to get it out of my media file.It is #32 in my gallery.
I have a similar problem with fender alignment which I have puzzled over for some time. One thing which was helpful was to try to isolate where the problem was with the use of a photo. I parked the car on level ground and then aligned my camera level with where the front tires touched the ground.
After taking several photos I downloaded them to my computer and superimposed level lines across the image. This clearly showed that the front frame was parallel with the wheels but as the lines moved upward one side of the car was higher than the other. (Really wish I had that picture) If you can’t do this electronically, just print the picture and draw the lines, being sure that they are exactly parallel to the starting line where the tires touch the ground.
I wish I could say that I solved my problem but I think that the front end fiberglass is not attached symmetrically to the pan. Perhaps the witness marks on the fiberglass parts are incorrect or perhaps my car’s builder did something wrong.
Hope this helps.
https://tdreplica.com/wp-content/uploads/rtMedia/users/508/FrontEndwlines-150×150.jpg- This reply was modified 7 years ago by Rich Kallenberger.
- This reply was modified 7 years ago by Rich Kallenberger.
- This reply was modified 7 years ago by Stephen Houser.
October 26, 2017 at 5:01 pm #304229@kall I edited your post to include the image. There’s a post in the how-to section on how to copy the image link address. It is kind of a pain. I’ve got a line on a better process but not sure I want to spend the club’s (recurring) money on it just yet.
Buxton, Maine
1982 London Roadster - "Kit Kat"October 26, 2017 at 5:32 pm #304230Good methodology.
Mine’s crooked the opposite way, fwiw. I fooled with it a bit when widening the fenders last winter but I don’t think there’s a slick way to make the adjustment.
I moved the bottom fender attachment points around a little (the bolt holes were already a bit big) and tightened them down as well as I could, taking care to not crack the ‘glass. It held symmetrical until I backed out of the garage.
Then I re-glassed those holes and drilled them again, smaller this time, and I think that held for like five miles or something.
October 27, 2017 at 6:57 am #304231Judging from that photo, the only long term fix would be to split the fender where it goes from the horizontal along the body to the vertical sweep over the tires and pull it down to where you want it and reglass it. Not quite sure it would be worth all that trouble.
By the way, what is that on top of your grill shell?
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"October 27, 2017 at 4:57 pm #304232Going out on a limb here but except for how the headlight bracket attaches to the fender, all the various kits attach to the grille frame the same way…i.e. by one large bolt. Can you not loosen that bolt and allow the fender to drop/droop downward to the height needed and then tighten the bolt thereby securing the fender at the correct or nearly correct height? Just my .02 cents worth.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackOctober 27, 2017 at 7:04 pm #304233If you remove one of the headlamp bracket bolts, does the fender drop into position?
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy" -
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