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I’m considering the purchase of a Fiberfab TD set up for Ford. I previously owned a Classic Roadsters Grand Duchess, with a 4-cyl Ford, that I sold years ago. I have some questions about it/them.
How does the Fiberfab kit compare with the Classic Roadster version? Are parts interchangeable? Quality & fit?The Fiberfab assembly manual which I found online specifies Pinto parts, but this kit includes parts from a Mustang. Is this a problem? Any thoughts?Included is a V8, I assume a 302 (5.0L). Looking around this forum, I don’t find many cars with such an engine. I long dreamed of stuffing a v8 into my earlier car. I’d assume it’s been tried, but can this be done? Am I nuts for even thinking like this? V6…?How sturdy is the Fiberfab Ford frame? Can it handle higher hp? Does anybody use a different rear axle/diff. for these?I envision header collector tubes being exposed between the engine and running boards, then they would disappear into bullet mufflers below the running boards and exit just ahead of the rear wheels, sort of ala the early prototype Viper exhaust.All input is welcome!Thanks.PaulPaul,
Can’t address all of that, since my Duchess is VW powered.
In general, body parts will not be interchangeable between a FiberFab and a Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess. Same goes for most interior panels. And I suspect for the roof and curtains also.
Fit and finish are highly subjective. And outright declarations may start a firestorm. ❗
I won’t rank a 1, 2, 3…. But my humble opinion, Classic Roadsters Ltd. was among the best. BCW and London Roadster are up there as well. I put FiberFab in the next tier. That’s just my opinion, which may not be worth the electrons it took to type this.
It is safe to say that a large part of fit and finish were up to the assembler. So in that regard, you are the master of your own domain.
Somewhere here, you”ll find threads from a couple guys thinking about V8. Never enough power, eh? I happen to think a V6 would end up with a better balanced car.
My two (maybe three) cents.
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Paul2, I agree with Paul1 on all accounts.
There are differences between all of the various models. They are often so small that you don’t notice that they are different until you try to fit them on the other car.
I strongly agree that fit and finish of the assembler is more important than which kit was used. However, most of us will agree that BCW and Allison were the finest if done correctly. However, I would not trade my Daytona Migi for either of these that I have yet seen. So, each has it’s own advantages.
One of the biggest advantages of the Fiberfab is that since there were so many more of them made, parts are more available. …MGMagic still sells parts for Fiberfab (which may or may not fit others.)
Most of us agree that at speeds less than about 70mph these cars are at their best. Above 70, they get a bit squirrel-ly. So, I am wondering why you would put a V8 or even a V6 in one? A well prepared front engine 4cyl Ford or Chevy or even a VW is plenty of power unless you are going to go to the drags.
My 2 cents.
Royal2015-03-29 13:51:54
The Mustang II and Pinto are about the same, in terms of parts you need to make a fake TD out of them. Mustang’s better because it will tend to have the beefier rear end. You might be needing that.
An extremely talented member built a Cologne V6 car two years ago and it was a beauty. The fit was easy, as the 60-degree engine was narrower than a 90. There is a guy with a small block Chevy-powered TD replica but he’s had a hard time getting brakes. The engine impinges on the spot where the brake booster needs to be, as I recall.A 302 should work about as well. If I were doing one I would do like Gabor (our V6 builder) and look hard at the “stock frame” first. He ended up fabbing his own out of 2×4 square tube.Bill will probably chime in here and tell you the rear end you want is the Ford 8-inch. The 9 is probably overkill.If you go with the v8, be careful. Even a very mild small block will be dangerous in a sub-2000-pound car.I bought my BCW Chevette with the intention of putting in a 60 degree V6. I had planned to just use the Chevette 4 speed and rear end. Well the 4 speed has a totally unique bolt pattern, so I’ll use a T5 trans instead. And the rear end is probably too weak, so I’ll need something else. I haven’t found what yet. Anything unmodified seems too wide.
1986 British Coach Works Type 52 (Sammy)
Chevy 2.8 V6, 5 speedThe Front engined BCW cars are narrower than the Ford-based cars, I am pretty sure. Might look for an MGB rear–or whatever the MGB guys use on their big swaps.
Thanks for the opinions everyone. I did not get the FF kit as I thought, so things have changed for now. But for the sake of continuing the conversation about the v8, I’ll add:
Paul,Good advice about fit and finish. (Sort of intuitive, too, at least in hindsight.)I also figured that the V8 would entail a big compromise with handling. Probably not impossible to get around, but a challenge at least. The more road-able it is, the more I’d drive it.I also got similar advice from a hotrod friend nearby.Royal,Why. Well, good question.Basically I guess “because you can”, assuming that it can be done at all.You’re absolutely right about them being squirrely above 70, and my friends always warned that I’d kill myself in the one I had before.Plus the gas mileage. !! Plus cooling it. !! Plus getting it titled and registered. !!Why is a great question.Edsnova,Being careful is relevant advice.Anyway, moot questions for now. I’ll have to resume my watch for a car.Cheers,PaulPaul,
Here’s an MGTD replica for sale in Baraboo, WI. Not sure what you’re looking for but here’s the link. Something to consider.
http://www.greatvehicles.com/classiccars/for_sale.cgi/MG/TD/Wisconsin/21826655
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackRear axle needs to be corrected but it’s got a hardtop and A/C.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Looks like a pretty viable car. Nice wires. I will never understand, though, why Classic Roadsters went with a full bench seat.
That’s a nice looking car.
I’d like to have it just to have the hardtop to my Duchess. Then I’d resell the car.If anyone buys this and does not want the hard top…talk to me! We can work a deal.That said, I finally learned how Classic Roadsters attached the hard top and hard side curtains. I could never figure that out from any of their ads back in the day. Pretty smart approach. And easily removed.Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Allen,
Well, that sure looks similar to my first car, Ford engine and all, right down to the alternator being butted up against the side panel of the engine compartment. Real close to me too!It’s probably more than I want to spend on it, especially to go modifying. But it’s really making me regret what I sold the last one for…! (Oh well.) I may go see it anyway, just to discuss it.Billnparts,My first car did not have this strange position of the rear axle. What exactly is going on with that rear axle, and what are you referring to about “correcting” it? What needs to be done?Thanks all,PaulSprings were probably cut incorrectly or they used the wrong half of the cut spring. It just needs to be lengthened to set the wheel centered in the wheel opening.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Bill,
The wheels look too far forward. How is how is the spring cut affecting fore/aft positioning?
And for what it’s worth, the rear wheels on VW based Classic Roadsters Ltd Duchess cars could be better centered too.
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
…and I’ve always thought that the whole darn body on my MiGi was mounted about 2″ too far aft.
If it had longer springs the axle assembly would be positioned further rearward and the wheels could be centered in their openings.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Ah. Now I get it. Leaf springs?
I was reading this as cutting coils out of a coil spring.
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Yeah, if you refer to build manual you’ll see they have you cut the factory Pinto leaf spring just forward of the mounting perch of the axle, then taking the rear section of spring, turning it over, and mounting it backwards. A bizarre installation that holds up the car but handles like crap.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"If you look at a TD the back wheels are a little forward of center. But that car for sale has them too far.
So, I went hunting for pics of original MGTD rear suspension, and I found this: http://http://www.britishv8.org/MG/EdLaBrush-MG-TD.htm
Interesting take on the V8 as well as the rear suspension (really, the whole car). Maybe it’s not impossible to get a V8 in it PLUS have it handle well. Spendy, but not impossible.That whole cut-off spring setup seems to leave a lot to be desired.edsnova2015-04-08 20:03:53
Here’s what appears to be an original rear spring setup:http://www.britishcarpartsco.com/new_page_3.htm
You’ll have to scroll about 1/2 way down the page and click on the image to enlarge it.Is there any way to add a picture to this forum? Thanks.edsnova2015-04-08 20:03:00
Found another v8: https://stevemckelvie.wordpress.com/2013/09/02/a-very-fast-mg/
I like the visible engine and roll bar, but not the front fenders.(I hope I’m not offending any purists here by obsessing on the v8 idea…)edsnova2015-04-08 20:04:42
undy, . You may enjoy this thread:
https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/j-leno-hot-rod-mg-td/#post-262361
edsnova2015-04-08 20:08:08Makes a nice hotrod. I agree that the fenders take away a lot of the appeal these cars have. Love the swoop look.
I’d take just about any car if given to me, so I’d never be a good judge at car shows.Pictures can be linked via URL (http://…) or uploaded, just click Reply, Insert Image button in editor. Make sure you do the Upload part after selecting one. From then on you can select again from list.If you’re building a new frame, heres an idea. When I owned my ’02 Escape, I thought it would be cool to take the rear cradle and incorporate it into the frame of the MG. A heavy enough rear assembly that’s narrow enough with independent suspension. Just a thought.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"
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