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Nice job. Hard work. Those blocks ain’t light. Did a large wall myself 10 years ago. Count your blocks and calculate the tonnage you’ve moved.
It does look nice.Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Phase 1 (bottom tier) was somewhere between 18 and 20 tons. Each block was 80 lbs and we set them in 3 tons of CR6 and maybe 5 tons of #57 stone before putting the 4 yards of potting soil on top.
This second one was less material, but I’m having to trench out the top now, since the hill is steeper there AND I was throwing the dirt UP the hill . . . So there will be a few tons of this moved twice, and farther, than the first tier required. Good news on this one: lighter blocks. The big “stretchers” feel like maybe 60 lbs.
By far the biggest single thing I’ve yet built.
Just played eenie- meenie-minee-moe at the paint store. The marine store I had gotten the white paint from can no longer supply a dark broun. It is discontinued. I went to one paint supply store and was told they have nothing equal to that type of paint. I tried another marine store and was referred to another paint supply house that supplies them with all they use. They suggested a single stage paint that could “possibly” be applied in the bizarre manner in which I’m doing this and handed me a book of color chips. The color I chose turned out to be from a 1993 Ford. Strange enough, years ago I had noticed a brown Crown Vic and thought that that color would not be a bad match for the MG. They mixed it up and said “Merry Christmas and Happy Birthday” and did not charge me one red cent. Today is indeed a good day.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Don’tcha just love it when a plan comes together.
newkitman2013-04-24 20:51:00Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackTrial fit of the redesigned fenders and running boards today.
Left side fit seems ok. Front grille fit rather iffy. Once the right side gets mounted I’ll be able to shift things around. Hood closure is off as a result.. I used painters tape on the flanges to minimize scratching during this process. When they come off for paint the reinstallation will include new welting. The new flanges seem to be a pretty good fit. This took the better part of the day to fit these properly so it seems there will be no time to remove these for paint and another assembly before Carlisle, so this is what you’ll be seeing at Carlisle.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Dude, that looks like crap. You can’t come to the show.
Wait! What the . . . Is your car parked on Berber carpet?
OK. You can come if you bring the carpet for our tent.;)
I think it’s best this way Bill.
It’s enough that Cory’s “Hoopty” Speedster has gone from primer to full gloss.
To have to deal with your TD going from “patina” to full gloss in one shot might be too much for my heart!
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
OK, almost assembled. Have yet to fit the doors. It developed an electrical gremlin while apart that I need to sort out. It may be all the still disconnected wire ends. The retractable seat belts discussed in another thread are installed. They work strange. You’ll have to see them at Carlisle. If everything works out easy enough, I have visions of taping it off and throwing a coat of something on those fenders.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"billnparts wrote:OK, almost assembled. Have yet to fit the doors. It developed an electrical gremlin while apart that I need to sort out. It may be all the still disconnected wire ends. The retractable seat belts discussed in another thread are installed. They work strange. You’ll have to see them at Carlisle. If everything works out easy enough, I have visions of taping it off and throwing a coat of something on those fenders.
What’s the link or title to the other thread? I’d like to put retractable belts in mine, but haven’t figured out how to mount them yet…If you’re going to shoot something on those fenders, how about a coat of dark primer?Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...The retractoe assembly moves with the buckle. It does not stay at the floor.
It’s different, but it is a retractable belt.Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Bill, I can’t get there from here. To join NAPA pro link, I have to have a validated commercial account…
But, I was able to take that part number and find it at NAPA online. Interesting…Did you mount them with the retractor on the tunnel side of the seat, or near the doors?I’d be interested on your feedback once you’ve put them to use. How comfortable is it with the retractor on your hip or in your lap…
KentT2013-05-01 12:38:39Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...I looked everywhere for reasonably priced seat belts for my 68 C10. I settled on this one
http://www.julianos.com/seat_belts.html
PMOSSBERG2013-05-01 13:35:30I have these in the rear seats of my 65 Plymouth. The lift latch style is a little more period correct:
And this is the 1960s style retractor for a lap belt. Lots of AMericna car manfacturers used these for front lap belts:Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
I believe this is the retractor belt Bill posted about:
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Just trying to figure out how to prevent “losing” the seat belt down beside the frame tunnel and trying to keep the other end from falling out the door.
I bought a set of lift-latch retractable ones off eBay, but haven’t figured out how to mount them. If I put the base-mounted retractor on the inside, I’d have to mount it up on the side of frame tunnel so the end of the belt is accessible. If I mount the retractor outboard, it will be so far back under the side of the seat, you can’t retrieve the belt. Even thought of adding a seat belt extension, but that would likely fall out the door also…Around and around in circles, I go… 😆Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...Kent, I have retractors between the seat and the outside. I attached a small loop of twine to the same slot that the belt goes through. Normally, I put the seat belt on before I close the door, – no problem. But, if I forget to put my belt on before the door is closed, then I have the small loop of twine that I pull up on and the belt comes with it. I think that you are over-thinking this a bit.
Royal wrote:Kent, I have retractors between the seat and the outside. I attached a small loop of twine to the same slot that the belt goes through. Normally, I put the seat belt on before I close the door, – no problem. But, if I forget to put my belt on before the door is closed, then I have the small loop of twine that I pull up on and the belt comes with it. I think that you are over-thinking this a bit.LOL.. I’ve been known to do that, Roy! I’ve also had a lot of failed shade-tree engineering experiments…Many times they work, some times they’re total failures…Good tip, Roy! At least you’ve convinced me that I can make what I have work… 😀
KentT2013-05-01 14:22:31Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...“I’ve had a lot of failed shade-tree engineering experiments.” Haven’t we all?
There are very few “in the box” thinkers on this forum. Getting ideas and trying to help others on tdreplica.com is an important and welcome part of my day.Where do you guys have your seat belts connected? I was thinking of connecting my lap belts to the two bolts that hold the rear of the body to the chassis. Is this not a good place?
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackThe bucket seat style of belt has a stiff vinyl casing on the short piece that gets bolted to the tunnel. This way it cannot fall down and hide. Your could make something like this for both sides. See the Julianos.com site for the bucket style.
Well, back to the original thread.
Spent the day getting the horn and all the lighting to work properly.
Now if only she’d start. Gremlins have gotten their nasty little hands into her while she sat idle.
How does that happen? We’ll have to start from scratch. Going back out and pull the starter.Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Well, The starter bench tested OK, but when I reinstalled it , the mounting stud for the battery cable stripped. Cannot get it tight. Cannot get it off. Removed the cable and starter as a unit and cut the cable off. New starter and cable tomorrow. Bummer, that’s the original starter from my original donor car. 1974. I guess it’s due. Earlier today, I discovered the voltage regulator HOT with key off, engine off. Hopefully that’s the source of my voltage drain. In two weeks I’ll be home from Carlisle. Hope I can get there.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Installed the replacement starter tonight and NOTHING !!!
Pulled the schematics and realized that I had not replaced all the ground straps I had removed prior to painting. DOH!!
Ran a wire and she fired right up. Took her for a ride to celebrate.
The list of must do’s is getting shorter.Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"
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