Hood and engine cover support

[Mike]

Does anyone have any sketches / photos for hood and engine cover props
for VW based td? I have a Fiberfab/CMC TD that has never had any
supports and would like to add something. The old prop up with a stick
while working on my car is getting kind of old. Im sure there are
members out there that have some ingenius ideas.
Thanks,
Mike

[Alex Cantacuzene]

Hi Mike, well this is a continuing and embarrassing item that I have struggled with. I have considered the installation of one or two of those hydraulic “hold-openers” that can be bought as aftermarket. I am always worried about overloading the fiberglass on the sides of the engine opening and so I have not done it. Recently I have changed engines and have not remounted the cover at the hinge, just holding it down with the spring loaded pull-down holders and it actually works great. Now I will have to figure out a quick-disconnect set-up for the license plate light. Please let me know what you can come up with. I think the guy with Angelica has a boat hatch fastener system but I have not found it yet. Take care and have fun

[Mark Hendrickson]

I built “Angelica”. It was the original “Pink MG”. That piano hinged engine cover was a pain, just ask the back of my head!

By making the engine cover/spare lift off, it became VERY easy to access the engine and transaxle.

I used 2 piece hatch cover hinges from West Marine. Any good boat supply (Boater’s World, West Marine, etc.) will have these.

I used the spring loaded (Jeep hood) on the bottom and the hatch hinges on the top of the sides. I then used the correct diameter and length spring loaded Push Pins that I got from McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com).

Maybe we can get Bill Collins to post a close up picture? I have a couple of pics, but don’t know how to post them here.

 

[Mark Hendrickson]

FrankieD38832.9337962963

[Mark Hendrickson]

FrankieD38832.9346759259

[Mark Hendrickson]

OK, I got two shots up here…they’re big, I don’t know how to shrink them.

If you’d rather use props, the Marine supply stores also sell hatch props that slide and lock. Use two if you have a real spare mounted on the engine cover.

One pic also shows how I had the spare mounted to the engine cover. A little of the aluminum ring can be seen. The engine cover was sandwiched between the aluminum ring and the spare wheel.

[Paul Mossberg]

Mike

Good stuff from MArk re the engine cover.

You also asked about hood props. Classic Roadsters took the opposite approach to a “prop” for the front hood. CR’s hood has a u-channel running front to back to help stiffen the fiberglass. They recommended using a shoulder belt from the donor car (or a new one), rivet or bolt the metal attachment end to the middle of the firewall and attach the other end to the u-channel near the center of the hood. The length is enough to allow the hood to open beyond 90 degrees, and short enough to keep it from hitting the head-light bucket or fender. Concept works well. I can post pics if you want.

Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

[Mark Hendrickson]

Hey Frank….thanks for shrinking the pics. I just posted another in the General discussion area…have at it!

[Mike]

Thanks for the ideas and photos guys.

I like the idea of removing the trunk/engine cover by installing the hatch hinges. They make a slick and quick removal for access and i think they look great.

thanks again, Mike

[Author]

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