- This topic has 131 replies, 10 voices, and was last updated 2 years, 9 months ago by
.
-
Posts
-
A little more progress. Three steps forward, two steps back.
I began installing the pulley kit and alternator bracket kits I bought months ago. I found out that they were incompatible.
I’ll never keep a belt on these pulleys.
Back on the internet. I found an outfit that supplies a complete package for alternator only with a v-belt.
Even then it didn’t place the alternator where I wanted it. I ended up combining components of all the kits I had and still ended up fabricating an additional lever for the adjustment.
This is as tight as I can get it. Hopefully, the side panel will clear. If not, we’ll have to copy the bubble on the left side panel.
Now the starter is another story. I brought a starter home that was way too large for the space I had. A second one was smaller and was so-o-o close. After removing the right side header a half dozen times, I finally gave up trying to make it fit and ordered a compact unit. That should be here Tuesday.
I still have to reinstall the steering column and hook up the new steering shafts. Once everything is colpleted in this area, we can move on to the radiator install. I’ll need to find hoses and make brackets for the cooling fan.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Yup: it’s all so quick and easy.
This is fun, right?
Here’s me spending 50+ hours making a pedal set. Now all I’ve got to do is cut the whole thing out and weld it back in two inches to the left.
Hey Bill,
That engine compartment is going to look so awesome that you may want to put plexiglass windows in the hood and floodlights in the engine bay so everyone can admire it…….that would keep you from wearing out the hood hinges opening and closing the hood to show off the “guts and Glory” of the TDr…!!!
Looking forward to seeing the car at Carlisle — just made my hotel reservation and still have to do the rest….Like Ed, I;m not sure which car is coming to the show — I’m not as far along as I had hoped to be with the Ford TDr…still wrestling with fitting the fenders, cowl and the rest…..we shall see….plus I’ll have to make sure the Ford will fit on my trailer since it is not set up for flat towing like my VW-based one is…time will tell……
…then again, I could bring the Bugeye and convince Roy to come to the show and bring the Mini — since I know I can trailer the Bugeye and Roy is already set up to flat tow the Mini….so many cars, so many choices — life is good!!
Again Bill, LOOKS GREAT!!
Happy Jack
Jack, there is a thread in here of the building of my tow bar setup. Complete with pictures.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Hey Bill,
I found the post (Oct 3, 2015) but the links to the various pictures don’t work…???
I assume that you remove the bumper at the chassis and bolt on your tow bar adapter???
…but then again, if I don’t get busy I’ll still be working on bolting fiberglass panels on come May…..
Are you using a shallow oil pan? What is the distance to the ground from your oil pan? I am trying not to go below the frame cross member at the front, but that puts my engine fairly high with a standard oil pan.
1986 British Coach Works Type 52 (Sammy)
Chevy 2.8 V6, 5 speedBallparking it with the car up on stands, the bottom of the oil pan appears to be level with the front cross member. The cross member ran with 4-1/2″ of clearance.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"That looks about where mine is also. Just as a double check, the bottom of my front pulley is 3 1/2 inches above the front cross member. It looks too high, but if I lower it, the pan goes close to the ground. Oh, it is a GM 60 degree V6. Guess you are watching Daytona.
1986 British Coach Works Type 52 (Sammy)
Chevy 2.8 V6, 5 speedI had to work yesterday so I only had today to get any work done. I got the temp and oil senders installed and finished their wiring. Finished the wiring on the distributor. I had to overhaul the upper steering column as the key release didn’t want to work. Don’t know what it was, but after I took it all apart and reassembled it, it worked. I put some intermediate shafts in and wound up an inch short at the rack. Easy fix. I know someone with a shaft stretcher. Got the radiator installed. I’ll see what excess room I can add after the fan and oil cooler is in place. There might be some room in the grille shell.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Great progress! But…
“Shaft Stretcher”? 😯 Heck, who doesn’t know someone with a shaft stretcher? 😈
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Paul, I was wondering who would catch that.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Is that a custom radiator or what car is it out of?
1986 British Coach Works Type 52 (Sammy)
Chevy 2.8 V6, 5 speedLocal rad shop supplied it. Says it’s from mid ‘60’s Mustang. Mounting tabs worked out just right.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Just for information that others may need, I have been researching radiators for my project an found Ledfoot Racing carries the mid year Mustang radiators. They also have one that is slightly narrower – CC1600 measures 18 1/4 x 18 3/4 has 3 rows and supposedly supports up to 450 hp.
1986 British Coach Works Type 52 (Sammy)
Chevy 2.8 V6, 5 speedWell it took all week to get the upper hose in place. I found the perfectly shaped hose but it was a larger diameter. I installed bushings so it would fit but the increased outer diameter made it impossible to slide on next to the bypass hose and get a clamp on it. I finally said screw it and pulled it all apart and ground part of the water pump nipple for the bypass hose away so I could collapse a portion of the bypass hose and force the radiator hose and clamp in place.
Lower hose was a bit easier.
Took most of the early afternoon to get all the pieces to work together mounting the fuel pressure regulator.
Currently working on mounting the cooling fan.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Another rainy day to spend in the garage.
I got the cooling fan mounted.
Trimmed the wings…got it as narrow as possible…
Trial body fit…Had to whittle a bunch out of the grille shell…
Looks like it belongs in there
It’s a bit wide at the front…
Going to take it apart again and remove the upper fan mounts. We’ll try zip tie mounts that are used for trans coolers and such.
The lower mounts don’t interfere with anything so we will still have firm support. we will just have to snug up the sealing strip at the top with the zip ties. That should allow the upper front edge to come back in line.
Coming down the home stretch.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Hot-rodding: it’s a game of inches.
I love that you have exactly zero room to spare.
How do the exhausts fit now, btw?
Ed, I’m still working on input.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Bill, are you going to have to remove the side panels to change the spark plugs? ….and can you (on your installation) remove the side panels without removing the fenders?
Man, I have total envy going on over here! XD
Vicenç - (bee sense)
Pembroke Pines, FL
1986 Aston - BCW Model 52 - "Montse II"(1983 FiberFab MiGi II - "Montse")
Bill – noticed that you have a 4 bolt wheel. What rear end is in the car?
1986 British Coach Works Type 52 (Sammy)
Chevy 2.8 V6, 5 speedYes, the side panels can be removed leaving the fenders in place. Rivetnuts make that real easy. As far as spark plugs, my only concern is #8, the back one on the drivers side. Probably have to get him from underneath.
The rear is a Ford 8” from a MustangII. Once I hot rodded the Pinto motor I kept blowing those little rears apart. I already had 4 lug wire wheels and didn’t want to buy new ones.
Vicenç, I can’t help you, sir.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Shades of the Chevy Monza V8…lifting the engine to change a spark plug! 😉
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.