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Ah, sorry. I misunderstood.
It is quite possible the body was warped a bit. But you have some flex in the pan and the fiberglass. Slow and easy…but I think you’ll be able to bring the two together.Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
So what is the caulking of choice. I have only used great stuff for stationary applications but I can see where it would be squeaky. I’d like to think my TDr will be quiet enough to hear squeaking!
I have used a rubber-like caulk that came in a big tube and required a caulking gun, but that was a long time ago. It was black and stayed flexible for a very long time. Don’t remember the product name. SORRY.
Royal2014-07-10 12:04:14Big Stretch maybe?
http://www.sashco.com/products/big-stretch/?gclid=CIW3i8esu78CFQiDfgodbZEABA
PMOSSBERG2014-07-10 14:47:57New master cylinder and brake lines in and functional. bit of a start because I didn’t have the extension rod far enough but good now. ready to bolt in rear splash pan bumper support. the manuals in this site show secondary support either coming up from the engine mount wish bone or down from the VW body bolt holes that are up the shock mounts. I have the piece that would come up from wish bone but have the idea that the stress is better at the vw body mounts. Anybody else have an opinion?
There is a hand written note in the FF manual on our site about using the instructions packed with the grill shell. Can someone help me with a copy of those
Thanks
Mike
steering column mounting – the angle iron support structure and flimsy firewall gives me concern. Any advice on this part of the process. absent better a plan I’m thinking of a plywood gusset to strengthen the support of something this important
I have just finished removing all but 4 large leaves from
upper and lower torsion tubes. I was
able to do it from 1 side, (driver???s because of how it sits in garage) and
without removing the hub. You will need
a platform to rest the hub on, and to disconnect the shock at the bottom. I
also disconnected the upper trailing arm from the hub to pull it out but the
lower arm came out while still attached. Mine had the expected 4 large leaves and 6
small in the bottom tube but 4 large 2 small and 2 as wide as large but not as
thick, seemed to occupy the same volume. In the samba.com there is a reference
in the kit car forum to welding pieces of the removed leaves at the ends and
center so the grub screws fit into the same volume. I didn???t and hope/think it
doesn???t matter. If possible pull out the excess leaves while disturbing the 4
large as little as possible. Reinserting them was more difficult than expected.
A very important learning experience to
pass on is: don???t start pulling leaves with the center grub screw out because
the collar it goes into is not fixed in place. I had to wiggle it back and
replace screw but it must be loose as well as the grub screw on the opposite
side to pull leaves out. I may have disturbed my camber as I noticed score
lines that don???t line up anymore but that???s another day. Hope this helps.Using short sections of removed torsion bar stack is only critical for the 1965 and earlier link-pin front suspension, AFAIK. It is not essential for the 1966 and later ball joint suspension, as long as the grub screws will tighten securely. It is a good practice
Using those short sections reduces the possibility of developing a stress crack in the remaining leaves where the grub screw contacts the leaves. It also makes the stack better fit back into the original openings with less potential wallowing and deformation.KentT2015-07-29 18:55:27
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...steering column mounting – the angle iron support structure and flimsy firewall gives me concern. Any advice on this part of the process. absent better a plan I’m thinking of a plywood gusset to strengthen the support of something this important
If you’re not afraid to get dirty and do some glasswork then I would say glass is a piece of angle iron to bolt it to. That way it can spread out the stress across more of the firewall and will strengthen it at the same time?
photo of my attempt to support steering column in my gallery. (25751) still a little unsatisfactory.
took an inch and a half out of steering column extension, to get the steering wheel off my belly. I have stripped the thread out of the knob for the seat back adjuster. As I rarely adjust the seat in my new car Don’t know if I want to go to the trouble of a fix. Does anybody use the seat back adjustment?
I assume your seatback adjuster is the same as mine, which is the kind from MG Magic that has multiple holes and you screw the knob into one hole on each side. I use mine only to put the seatback as far back as I can recline it. If you stripped out the knob, however, I don’t understand what holds the seat in place. However, if all you stripped out was the knob, couldn’t you just use a tiny bit of 1/2″ pipe (I’m guessing as to diameter) to fit into the hole on the adjuster, put a fender washer on top of that, and then screw the pipe and washer into place with a regular nut with the right thread? It wouldn’t be readily adjustable, but it would still be technically adjustable, and it would hold your seat firmly.
Car still not on the road. what holds it is a screw into the inner tub wall. I stripped it trying to be sure I could get it tight enough to withstand the vibrations I’m expecting. I have seats and back and steering wheel in as comfortable a driving position as I think is possible given that my total experience is in the garage. . Good to know you don’t change your seat back angle. and thanks very much for the quick reply
BCW originally had no seat back adjustment–just an angle bracket with wood screws. I installed used original TD adjusters for the look, but the seat still sits all the way back all the time–unless I’m trying to make a little room to get into the transaxle.
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