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Just finished attaching and wiring this to my BCW Model 52. The application is for Motorcycles but the box it came in mentioned that it was a Lucas Copy! I cut a couple of pieces of metal stock and attached to the two screws in the back of the license plate light. The BCW being built in the era of late 1970’s EPA requirements being instituted (by the mid 1980’s) had all sorts of “modern” requirements (anti-whip-lash headrests, third 1980’s ugly brake light, an octopus of lines running to the air cleaner, catelytic converter for a little 4 cyl engine (!!!!!), plastic f-ugly clicky gas cap and probably many other things I have yet to find.
The above stop-light is actually a two bulb set-up meant for a license plate/stop light set-up. I ran one wire from the 80’s third brake light to a post behind the “stop” and the other wire to the bottom post. When you turn on the headlights the top light turns on too, when you hit the brakes the bulb behind “stop” brightens up. There is probably some sort of grounding to the license plate light too which may have some impact on this light and the way it’s currenly working. I’m thinking I should put in a jumper between the top and bottom halves of this light to see if that would make it all go brighter with a brake application. Not sure if LED would have any impact, but I’m so glad to get rid of the really bad 80’s after-market third stoplight!If I remember to take a photo of the full set-up I’ll post tomrrow.TomTom Vilardi
BCW Model 52
South Orange NJIf that’s running two single contact bulbs, change the pigtail in the socket behind “Stop” to a dual contact.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Here’s the “new” third stoplight in place attached to the license plate frame.
Tom Vilardi
BCW Model 52
South Orange NJbillnparts wrote:If that’s running two single contact bulbs, change the pigtail in the socket behind “Stop” to a dual contact.Agree. Tring to use a jumper as originally mentioned ould backfeed the entire other circuit. If the brake light is not bright enough to satisfy you, try using a brighter bulb/LED array.
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...Very nice. I might have to steal that idea.
Vicenç - (bee sense)
Pembroke Pines, FL
1986 Aston - BCW Model 52 - "Montse II"(1983 FiberFab MiGi II - "Montse")
At Kent T: My jumper idea failed – popped the fuse. At night it seems bright enough but I may look into a brighter LED bub.
Here’s the ebay stop light link for those interested:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vincent-Miller-B-C-Models-STOP-Taillight-Brakelight-Tail-Brake-Light-NEW-/200912914951?fits=Make%3AVincent&hash=item2ec757ca07:m:mgpQb2ZcQEoQWgfUzO8a7qg&vxp=mtrTom Vilardi
BCW Model 52
South Orange NJHi Folks, I’ve been messing around with some lower-end (like $6.00 for a pair) of LED lights the last week or so. 1157 double contact directional signal/brake lights to be exact.
They are very bright BUT the issue I have with them is the directionals do not work unless you have the headlights/taillights on?!?!I then moved them to my third brake light and they look wonderful – super bright – but again do not work unless the headlights/taillights are on.Anyone else encounter this?TomTom Vilardi
BCW Model 52
South Orange NJTry swapping the wires on the circuit. The parking lamps should be separate and not as bright as the turn. Maybe they are backwards. LED’s can be weird.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"The 1157 LEDs are Light Emitting Diodes with either a two bank or single bank of diodes, one bank used for parking lights and both used when the brakes are applied. The one bank set up uses all the LEDS for both functions but there must be a built in resistor in the parking light circuit as the LEDs are not as bright. Also as noted they will only work when wired properly (I mixed up the negative/ground wire with either the driving or signal lights and figured the LED was defective and returned it, tried the second LED which also failed before I realized it was my wiring mistake versus a second defective LED.) I installed Amber LEDs for front driving/signal lights when the signal relay failed in the on position and the heat generated with the 1157 filament bulb melted the lens. So determine which wire is the brake circuit then test the two connections on the base of the LED for brightest illumination and then wire socket to third brake light
David B Dixon
Port Perry ON CA
SabineNote that a common problem with LED turn signals is that they do not provide enough resistance for the flasher (aka blinker) to operate correctly, turning them off and on. This may or may not be a factor in your symptoms.
This is often addressed by:
1. Using regular bulbs, not LEDs, in the front turn signals, or…
2. Using an aftermarket universal flasher designed specifically for adding LEDs or add an additional resistor into each rear turn signal circuit.Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...I’m thinking they are not as “plug and play” as I would have liked.
My fender turn signals have the big amber lenses (which I dislike) but I have a pair of clear Lucas lenses (not the OEM milk-looking glass with metal rim) that fit the fender “pods”, but these clear Lucas lenses are shorter than the Amber AND the big 1157 bulb interferes with it.There is a mini dual filament bulb (which I think is an older style and may have motorcycle applications) but finding them is near impossible….. so that’s why I started messing around with the LED’s with peculiar results.Another option would be to pull the pods, pull the guts, redrill where it all attaches inside for another tiny bit of space and then reassemble, but working LED would be so much better!Tom Vilardi
BCW Model 52
South Orange NJI had the dual filament bulbs with the opposing pins versus the offset pins on an 1157. I tried modifying a 1157 by grinding off one pin and putting a drop of solder on the casing to duplicate the Lucas bulb. It worked for awhile put eventually failed. So I removed the bulb holder and installed a 1157 holder. Was then able to use the LEDs in lieu of the 1157 filament bulbs. I did not encounter the issue cited of having too low a resistance value with the LED which caused the flasher relay to fail
David B Dixon
Port Perry ON CA
SabineDavid, How much did you spend on your LED’s?
My issue may be just that I purchased a cheap product (I only paid around $6 for the pair). I know you can spend alot more than that for LEDs, but figured I’d start at the bottom.At one point ther was a smaller variety incandescent double filament bulb (which probably wasn’t as bright) but that seems to have been superceded by the larger almost two inch long bulb now.I learned that the BA 15 bulb base has the pins across from each other.The BAY 15 bulb base has the pins “indexed” (i.e., one higher than the other).Just would love to eliminate those clunky looking amber lenses on the fenders and use the smaller Lucas clear varieties.TomTom Vilardi
BCW Model 52
South Orange NJI posted a little DIY conversion for the lucas light sockets back in March of 2013.
It’s in ‘my projects’“Lucas Prince of Darkness”
Might help.
No trees were injured in the making of this message, but some electrons were inconvenienced.
Tom
I tried using the lower cost LEDs like these but did not have much success. These cost about $10 CAD
I then bought the $30 LEDs that look like these, which use all the diodes whether energized by the parking light or signal light. Difference being that there is either a resistor or some diodes in series to drop the voltage into the parking light circuit as LEDs are not as bright as the when the signal light is energized
The over all length of the 24 LED is the same length as the filament 1157 bulbI used the same surgery as Court Wizard to modify the Lucas bulb holder to accept the 1157 base.Toller2016-02-25 09:15:45
David B Dixon
Port Perry ON CA
Sabine
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