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The top screw on the driver’s side top door hinge is loose and will not tighten on my older FF kit. This is likely THE most stressed of the door hinges because of both the frequent use and the top location.
Has anyone else experienced this? How did you resolve it? Can you get access to the backside of this screw in the body tub? Any suggestions?I can’t find a pic of that area in the assembly manual, and before I try to carefully remove the carpet to explore, I thought I’d ask. Searching here didn’t turn up anything…
KentT 2013-03-25 09:12:48 Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...I have a Classic Roadsters Duchess, not an FF…but…
There are access holes behind the side panels on a Duchess.I have to assume there is an access hole behind your side panels or carpet.There’d be no other way to tighten the bolts down.PMOSSBERG2013-03-25 11:16:02
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Kent: Fastener can be reached with a long extension from the wheelwell. Also under the carpet there may be a acess hole to reach the fastener.
Thanks, guys. I’ll try George’s suggestion on accessing it through the wheelwell when it warms up a bit. I’m trying to avoid ripping out the carpet to look for access from the inside, if possible.
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...George,
Just curious, ’cause I like to learn as much as I can about each of the TD replica variants.There is a fairly large body panel between the rear fender openings and the rear door jamb. Is that space completely open on a Fiberfab?There is no way to reach into that body cavity on a Duchess.Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Kent,
Wheelwell on mine as well unless of course you are loose on the door side.Most likely they will be rusted up inside there and hard to tighten up ( may just break ). I ended up replacing all the fasteners in my car w/ SS for my son in the future or whoever owns many years to come.Yes, the Fiberfab kit has a gap in the wheelwell between the outside body and the inner tub. The assembly manual has you cut access holes for the hinge bolts into the tub, but that is not necessary.
If it has a tendency to loosen up, then put some loctite on the threads when you reassemble and/or opt out for a locking nut.Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"I bought barrel nuts and glassed them in place on the hinge screws, the latch strike plate and on the nuts that hold the hood side panels in place. Also using all stainless for the screws. These are the places that will be hard to reach once everything is together. Should never go bad.
When I put my MiGi together, I didn’t use nuts but rather a small piece of steel channel which I tapped to fit the hinge screws, there are 2 screws per hinge. Once the screws are started, it is not necessary to access channel to tighten screws. Set channel in some silicone to hold in place but also allow future removal if required.
The VWs used a threaded plate inside the door jamb, similar to what you described Al. Sadly, unless I can access the backside from inside the tub, I’m not sure I can come up with a “permanent” fix. It’s been too cold to work in my carport today, with snow flurries all day long — I don’t have a garage, much less a heated one…
KentT2013-03-25 18:59:16
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...
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