Moving the brake backwards?

[Stuart]

OK – I really like johnsimion photos and I need to move my brake to his location.

I bet this has been discuses before but…

How do you move the brake back on a VW pan?

Different ideas are very welcome please!

[Paul Mossberg]

Here you go:

https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/relocate-the-parking-brake-and-bigger-footwells/

 

Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

[Paul Mossberg]

Ed Ericsen’s blog on this topic is linked in the above thread.

But here it is again: https://bridgetmgtd.wordpress.com/2011/03/16/parking-brake-relocation/

 

Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

[Stuart]

Fantastic – I now have a clear holiday project.

Thanks Much

Stuart

[John Simion]

FYI – I didn’t move the brake on my car, the original builder did that.  What I did do with the brake was remove the heater and defroster handles from the unit.  This narrowed down the assembly and took out those pointy little parts, and I also removed the tops of the adjustment screws, something I’ll probably regret later.  My changes, however, did allow a conventional e-brake boot and let me put the seats closer together.

You can’t do what I did unless you are doing without a heater (or have some other way to control it).  I live in Las Vegas and don’t need a heater; also, since I also lack side curtains, I figured a heater wouldn’t do much good anyway.  IMHO the original VW e-brake and heater/defroster assembly isn’t going to look good if you move it where mine is UNLESS you also remove the heater parts.  If you’re keeping the heater, I’d keep the e-brake forward.  I have heard, however, that there is a way of changing the angle of the e-brake handle so it’s easier to access even though it’s forward of the shifter.

I would say that it doesn’t look that hard to move the e-brake assembly (spoken like a guy who didn’t actually do it).  The e-brake assembly is simply bolted to the tunnel and connects to the brakes using cables.  So, aside from the issue of cutting a new hole in the tunnel and closing the old one, it shouldn’t be that difficult just to shorten the e-brake cables.

I would caution that if you are working in the tunnel, it would be a good idea to replace the shifter bushing at the same time.  That little SOB will really screw up your shifting if it’s worn out or missing and you’d have to remove and replace your carpeting to access it later.  It’s just a cheap nylon piece but difficult to replace and a dirty job.  Mine was replaced before I put in the new carpet.  It fixed my shifting, but if I had only known about this piece, I would have had it installed:  http://www.ev4unow.com/VWShiftRodBushing.html

That solves the problem more-or-less permanently.

[HappyJack]

I moved the e-brake on 2 VW-based TDr’s (one Fiber Fab and one BCW) following Ed’s excellent BLOG.  I highly recommend doing this project — but it does take time and effort — and patience and small hands…!!!

And everyone needs a winter project or 2…

Happy Jack

[edward ericson]

Most things we do to these cars to make them look more TD-like makes them work less well; most mods to make them work better compromise the looks. The e-brake shuffle on the VW-pan cars is that rare modification that helps both looks and function.

Proud to be the progenitor of a movement . . . .

• This reply was modified 8 years, 1 month ago by edward ericson.

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