- This topic has 105 replies, 13 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 7 months ago by
.
-
Posts
-
All very interesting. I figure the fiberglass adds some strength and so I’mma leave as much as I can there, fortified with some angle aluminum. I want to bolt the glovebox to that,and then put the dash in front of it.
BTW, my steering column is attached to a bit of angle steel that is bolted to the lower part of the fiberglass and reinforced from behind with tube steel that bolts to the firewall. I never knew there was another way.
These cars are like women…each one a little strange, er, different.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Ed. Any chance a standard VW glovebox would fit in there? Just another alternative.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackWell if you use half a cat litter box, remember to remove the cat. They tend to get really ticked off if you try to turn them into a glove box.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackHappy to report that the glovebox is made and in. I decided to use a plank of maple I bought a year or two ago just because it looked too good to be sitting on the Home Depot rack.
The floor and back of my box are maple. I did this to preserve some of the stiffness and strength of the original design, which features a 3/4-inch metal pipe that bolts to the firewall and the back of the dash.
I want to shorten that pipe and bolt it to the back of the glovebox. Figured a stock type cardboard glove compartment would not be useful as a structural element.I notched the front of the box floor to cover the fiberglass, which appears to e a very uniform 1/4 inch. BCW chop-gunners knew what they were doing.
The sides and top are a piece of galvanized flashing I had handy from another project. As soon as I found my tin snips (OK, actually, I never found my tin snips, so I bought a new pair), I made the cut & folded the edges neat-like. Then screwed it into my nice, strong maple:
Now, attaching this to the back of my now-flimsy fiberglass subdash required some thought. I had planned to use a metal L-bracket screwed to the bottom of the wood and then bolted to the dash, but there is no room. So the new plan is four deck screws right into the wood. Mocking it up I found it holds just fine with 1 1/4 drywall screws.
The metal tabs are a different story. The obvious thing would be sheet metal screws, but I don’t like the way they tend to push the second layer of metal back instead of biting it. There’s no good way to clamp it to keep that from happening. Plus, with sheet metal screws in thin stock like this, you’ve got a limited number of disassemblies before it all just fails. I’m not planning on taking this thing apart much after it’s done, but just getting it done looks like it requires about 8 in and outs.
The solution? Rivet nuts!
Trip back to Lowes for the correct SS machine screws and we have liftoff. I am happy to report that the glovebox floor is less than 3/32 above the bottom of the opening (just right to line up with the brass bead that goes there). Now I just need to mortise in a little notch for the hinge.
Wood is good, boys.
edsnova2013-01-20 09:23:54
Great job of fabrication Ed. Want to come to GA and help me with my fabrication?
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackNice job, Ed. I’m impressed.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Thanks, guys. Allen, I’d be glad to do it if you can find another fabricator to take my place at work. 😉
Roy: no doubt you’ll find a more elegant way than I did.
Stained the new dash just now. It starts out wet, of course, so just as you wipe the stain on you get a preview of what it will look like all done. The flame on this wood is hella nice. No pics; they don’t do it any justice.
My Sweetie says that I have been wrong about most everything I did or said today. So I thought that I would take one last shot:
Ed, I think that John wanted to see the front of your dash, not it’s backside? Ed, ..you’re a funny guy. 😆In as much as I would like to see the finished dash, you would do well to keep it hidden until Carlisle. You want to see it, come to Carlisle. I am looking forward to its presentation.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Ditto what Bill said!
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackStained in and out, front and back. A little more re-gluing & epoxy
filling where my stupidity in the initial construction left voids in the
interior of the dash.
Glovebox interior is stained, and I even sanded down the light, wiper, flasher and original TD glovebox door knobs & stained ’em. That’s the flasher there on the back of the glovebox.
Assuming everything looks good tomorrow I’m going to go with two (maybe three) coats of Pelucid, brushed on three hours apart and cured for at least four days, followed by (after a block-sand with 300 grit) three coats of Minwax Helmsman’s Spar Urethane, the latter coating on the front of the dash and inside of the glovebox door only.
The Pelucid is an automotive clear coat and will probably find its way onto the metal components as well. Still figuring out what to do about the “chrome” left on my dash bling. One of the glovebox door pieces is chrome free, and looks pretty good in its natural brass. I might just take the lot of them to that state.
Can hardly wait to show you guys the finished product.
Enjoying the show Ed!
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
After three coats of Pelucid the dash is glossy and gorgeous–but if you turn it in the light, brush marks are very evident.
The plan now is to block it out with 220 grit after Wednesday and apply
the Helmsman. I worry that the brush application will give me the same
slightly wavy, marked effect I have now.The testers I’m copying sprayed theirs. I figured they???re an auto shop & sprayed it pro-like. Turns out Helmsman Spar comes in a rattle can too. Wish I???d known that.
So I have a big can of spar urethane. I can return it to the Despot & try to find a spray can locally, or order it online.
Or I can try to do better with what I got.
Turns out the stuff can be thinned with mineral spirits and wiped on with an old t-shirt, thin like. According to a guy who calls himself the Wood Wisperer.
Any advice? Taunts?
Meanwhile, finally got ’round to putting the chromie bezel on the speedo.
Man that’s gonna make a difference.
Being an old marine domestic and marine retail mgr I prefer foam brushes and also I strickly adhere to the mfg varnish can instructions for thinners etc ..
Badger brushes are the best if you are a pro at laying on the varnish
Z Spars Captains varnish is th e easiest to apply fo r me.Not sure if all the other coats you have put on are compatable with marine varnish .
Ed good Answere…
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.