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I’ve always wanted a glovebox in Bridget. Also, Paul was kind enough to point out the gaps behind the speedo in my hacked-up original dashboard.
So I’ve undertaken to replicate the “original” (1950s) “British Coach Works” trademarked chequed dash.
This will probably end in tears but, anyway, enjoy the show.
I’ve been unsuccessful in my hunt for BCW documents and without them i’m pretty much clueless. My car has been on hold for such a long time now I’m really starting to get discouraged and have been thinking of selling. A source for any info about BCW Chevette assembly would be so very welcome, can you give me a starting point?
Thanks,
EdEd, have you called Smoothline? That is the successor company to BCW, run by the same family. I tried emailing them a few years ago and got nothing back, but a phone call from you might work.
Also: Search for Greg Schauber on the site. He put together a front engined BCW a couple years ago, and I think he had most of two kits. his handle was something like oldclockdoc.
I’m going to see if I can get in touch with him and maybe get you his phone number and email. Super nice guy & did a great job on his car.
BTW, my reference to the “original original” 1952s BCW is a joke. Part of an insanely detailed backstory for my car that I confected as a “replica provenance,” mostly for my own amusement but partly as a subtle tweak to that subset of the “real” old car guys who become deranged purists by way of their obsession with this sort of thing. My favorite are the vintage racers, most of whose cars have about as much of the “original” vehicle left as ours do.
I had not found Smoothline in my searches, that’s a great lead. I did manage to obtain a rebuilt drive shaft from Rick Drake out in Washington state but I’m having a little difficulty getting it to sit in the frame the way it looks like it should. So, I need some advice and a couple of days labor to get her on the road. I’m so close….
I emailed Greg. Hope he’ll get back to us. BTW, nice thread hijack, Ed. Here’s what I’m actually talking about.
edsnova2013-01-05 17:05:19
I do love the checkerboard dash. The sawdust and glue is a nice trick, I’ve used that before on some guitar repairs. I can’t wait to see how yours takes a finish. Tung oil or something denser?
Ed, I’ve never seen a dash like what you have started. But, I really like it. (what caused my font to suddenly change to slanted?) Is the difficulty with the fitting due to the width of the saw kerf? I think that it is going to look very rich. Anxious to see at Carlisle…
Haven’t thought that far out. I was thinking I’d clear-stain it twice and hit it with like 400, then spar varnish or something similar.
I did use a lot of Watco oil back in a former life. Great stuff for butcher block and the like. If they have some kind of marine-grade thing I might consider it.
Roy, you hit the italicize button– that big I next to the B above your post. Hit it again to go back to straight fonts.
And yeah, it’s going to be hard because I don’t really know what I’m doing, and because I’ve made this so I have to cut the glovebox door out from the existing dash, which I already know is the wrong way.
I suspect I will ruin it before I finish. But then I’ll try again. I do like the design. I drew it more than a year ago and kept looking at it to see if I still liked it. I did.
Also plan to add the legit 52 TD dash trim, a very dodgy example of which I actually possess. Looks like the chrome should clean up to a quality just about as good as what’s on the rest of the car now.
edsnova2013-01-05 17:18:05
OK, got it on the italics. Tks. I have wasted entirely too much money on varnish and wood boats, but have not heard of Watco. The top with its Mae West curves is really the only part that is dimensionally important, – if the assembly ends up being a bit too short, it really won’t matter. It should only be short by a fraction of an inch but I know that those little spaces between the jigsaw pieces are a bear to get just right. I know that you have been a strong supporter of the original TD look, but this really isn’t TDish. So why worry about the dodgy trim. Clean, rough it up and paint it. I once did something similar and ended up putting a krinkle finish on it. Drew rave reviews from all who saw it.
Royal2013-01-05 19:20:11
Here’s what I would do to finish a dash like that. First fill all the saw kerfs. You’re on the right track using sawdust and glue, but sometimes that combination ends up much darker than the sorrounding wood. I would fill the cracks with clear epoxy then sand flat. Sand with 110, 200. Next you want to seal the pores, you can use clear sealer like Deft or a clear shellac. Lightly sand with 220 between each coat and use a tack rack afterwards. Keep up with the sealer product until the wood absorbs no more. You can finish with a good marine spar varnish, but if you want a super deep British Rolls-like luster, use either a bar-top epoxy of better yet, I like automotive clear coat which has excellent UV properties. If you need to clear up a blemish or two when done, you can wet sand with 1500 to 2500 grit and buff to a mirror-like finish. It’s going to look great….
Taking notes, boys. I will check in again when it’s time to stop sanding and start finishing.
But Roy–what do you mean the design “isn’t TDish?” Did you not read my blog post? Are you unaware of automotive history? I have done a ton of research to make sure this project is an exact replica of the original BCW dashboard as Nigel and Nils Gantry intended! I am honoring their vision as it pertains to the MG TD’s “modification for sporting use.” One can never be too faithful to Original Intent, sir!
Now Good Night! 😉
MGTD dashes:
Along side stock rexine with various numbers and types of auxiliary gauges and switches, there is stripped-for-racing (oak, no glove box, mismatched gauges…hey!)
There’s dark burl wood:
There’s tiger maple:
(The above two being looks I liked enough to try to combinate).
There is the too-many-gauge look:
There is the mod racer look–a combo pack of engine-turned and upholstered:
And there is the old-skool all-engine-turned look:
There is even the elegance of the “everything wood” look:
I’ve never yet seen one like what I’m trying to make. Not everyone’s cup of tea, I’m sure, but if I manage to pull it off we’ll see if I still like it in a couple years. Like it or not, certainly it’s TDish.
OK Ed, I concede that if our TDs are MGish, then your dash is TDish. Regardless, I applaud your effort. Good night Chet.
Glovebox rough cut done. I think this might work yet.
edsnova2013-01-08 21:14:41Continue to have not yet ruined it. Got to the point where I dare to consider finish products.
Here is a dude in Oklahoma who tested a bunch of methods on oak and pine truck bed slats–left them out all winter and summer.
Then there is this Sarasota sailor who tested like four dozen wood finish systems in S. Florida. Again, years in the weather.
Results:
Looks like Minwax Helmsman spar urethane did splendidly in both tests. I think that will be my top coat.
Also just ordered the Pelucid for the first coats. I like that it’s “water clear.” I plan to put it on over a minwax “natural” stain that I already have handy. I tested it on a bit of scrap mosaic and was very happy with how the wood looked so dressed.
Working on the glove box itself now. Cut the big hole out of the fiberglass last night. Doesn’t leave much material to work with.
edsnova2013-01-16 08:03:47
Just an observation… My Fiberfab does not use a full fiberglass panel behind the wood dash. It only has a lip around the top edge. I don’t see where you would need to duplicate the holes in two panels.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Ditto for my Duchess. There is a lip of about an inch and a half around the dash opening. The wood screws to that lip. There is no fiberglass along the bottom edge.
You can see in in the photo in step 22, on page 36 of the Classic Roadsters assembly manual:
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Ed. My dash setup is like Paul and Bill’s. Just about a 1/2 to 3/4 inch lip alond the front to bolt the wood dash too. My steering column has a steering column support bracket that bolts to the front firewall and to the the inner side of the wood dash. Then the steering column U-bolts to the support bracket. Not sure how the Duchess hooks up.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackMy steering column bolts to the dash.
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
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