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My name is Scott. I have just purchased a MIGI Daytona replica assembled in 1984 on a 1968 VW frame and engine. The engine, transmission, and rest of drive train seem fine. The fiberglass body is in pretty good shape and the car is fully operational, but there are a few things that need attention and before I jumped into them I thought I would see if anyone in the club may have some thoughts on solutions.. Here’s my list..
- Drivers Door sags and needs to be lifted about an inch to close properly. This may be a hinge problem, or a mounting problem.
- The speedometer is not operating. I have not yet looked into the problem, but wondered if this was a common occurrence. I know replacements for some speedometers are available from MG Magic but wanted to see if I could repair it first.
- Windshield wiper motor is not operational. Again, I can likely replace but wondered what I should look for first.
- Finally, a more significant problem, the undercarriage beneath the fiberglass bucket beneath the drivers seat is rusted through. May have to find a welder to weld on a new plate, but again, any thoughts you have would be appreciated.
First, Welcome!! You’ve come to the right place to find help.
Second, I’m of little help to you. As mine is not VW based, you’ll have to wait for those boys to wake up. The door issue, maybe. If the hinges are sloppy, where you can wiggle the door up and down when the door is open, replace them. From your description, that might be the case. I assume all the mounting bolts are tight.
Search the forums for answers as I’m sure all of the problems you addressed have been subject to discussion in the past. There is a wealth of information hidden in there.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Welcome. I think that your first order of business would be to have someone who is familiar with old Bugs take a close look at the frame for serious rust. It is possible that #1 and #4 are related. Fix #4, your “more significant” problem first.
I would advise buying a copy of “How to keep your Volkswagen alive” by John Muir. Rob & Dave’s VW resource is also very good and free advice at http://www.<b>vw</b>-<b>resource</b>.com.
I did not check, but would bet that these two sources would answer your questions about #2 & 3.
And Bill’s advice of becoming very familiar with the search function of our tdreplica.com will save you a lot of headaches.
Scott you will find a wealth of info in the posts and the members invariably have encountered and repaired any issues you may encounter and will offer their advice to correct the problem
To add to Roy’s suggestion would also include Bentley and Haynes manuals for 68 VW. I use cip1.ca or cip1.com if you are in the US as my goto supplier for VW parts and they carry the manuals. You may also find them on AmazonDavid B Dixon
Port Perry ON CA
SabineWelcome aboard Scott. As to what Bill said about door hinges, the place to get those is MG Magic. That’s where you will get most of the body parts you need. Talk to the folks there and they’ll be very helpful and get you the parts you need. I have just ordered a set of hinges from them as I have one hinge that is very sloppy. I think the hinge pin is in less than good shape. Any other questions, ask away. There are a lot of folks with a wealth of knowledge who can help.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackI’d like to add my welcome to all the others.
There are lots of places to get repair info.
MGMagic; http://mgmagicclassicmotorparts.com is a good source for parts and has very helpful and friendly staff. They also ship IN NO TIME!
http://www.jbugs.com/ is another place for parts.
http://www.mamotorworks.com/ is a very good site for both parts and info.
Here is a link for trouble shooting your speedometer issue:http://image.mamotorworksmedia.com/production/website/articlefiles/TechTipFiles/VW_Speedometer-1.pdf
As for your wiper trouble, that will take a little more digging. It may be as simple as a blown fuse, broken wire or loose connection. It may also be a bad motor, which will be more expensive. You’ll probably need a volt, ohm meter (VOM) to do it correctly.
The floor issue is a major issue, but shouldn’t be a huge problem, but you’ll probably need a body shop, but the floor pans are available from mamotorworks and jbugs.
Good Luck with your new car and keep us posted how things are going!
Again, WELCOME!
Amor Conquista Todo
Welcome, i’m sure you will find lots of answers here.
i have some experience with the door/latch problem. Things to look for are:
- Hinges are worn or bent -straighten or replace
- hinges are loose where they are screwed to the door or frame – tighten
- screw holes in door or frame are enlarged or no longer in the right place – install metal backing plates inside the door or frame, taped if possible to make installation and adjustment possible.
- all of the above for the latch mechanism.
- door no longer fits in the body opening – after checking all of the above, slight rubs can be corrected by grinding off high spots. I do not know of a solution for warped fiberglass. As things age, they sag.
- The doors seem to have been made in two parts (inner and outer) and then bonded together. Mine are beginning to separate and will need to be pulled together and rebonded, eventually. They don’t fit perfectly in this condition.
- even if you are successful in improving the fit, the latching mechanism is marginal and it is best to have an additional safety latch.
Other members may have other experiences.
Stick with it. It sounds like you are starting way ahead of some of us.
And that’s how it goes, Scott. Welcome to the forum.
A couple guys here have put in new floors. There are also “frame stiffeners” for VW pans for sale. I’m thinking of getting a set. One guy has installed them (I think) on his kit. They’re spendy but an easier install than these convertible rails, which require a body jig and welding.
Thanks, another great parts resource. Now I’m trying to figure out if I order a 1/2 pan which apparently comes with the seat pedestals, if these pedestals need removed to install the “battery bucket” which sets under my seat.
Scott
I think the seat racks have to be ground off regardless on all the kits. Just get a cutoff wheel & it shouldn’t take but a few minutes, half-hour…
Ed is correct. The seat rails need to be removed. Likely the easiest part of the job.
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
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