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The Lafer looks like it sat out for quite a while. The dash and blacked-out chrome are signs of that. Strange that it doesn’t have the TM Lafter tail lights either–though those are not to everyone’s taste.
Agree it could be a decent buy for someone who wants to play at putting it back together. Front bumper would be easy to replace but the grill shell would be problematic at best.
Rather bizarre with front hinged doors.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Well, decision made… After a talking to him for quite a while, I committed to buy this one Bill Sherwood listed on the Samba site:
It’s a 1600cc dual port on an IRS pan. It is about a 1980-82 vintage Fiberfab kit, originally purchased by an older gentleman who brought it to Bill’s shop ( http://www.cseauto.com/) for assistance in building it, and had Bill put one of his custom tube frames underneath it. I’m not exactly clear on how much work Bill’s shop performed, and how much the owner did — Bill’s shop provided owner assistance as needed during builds back then. Long story short, the gentleman went overseas, and Bill came to own it. He’s taken it to a few shows to show their frame work, and his guys had it running and driving a few years back, but it has never been titled and put on the street.It’s a pretty basic kit – missing the optional chrome grill shell, headlight bars for vertically mounting the headlights, and the rear spare tire carrier, to mention a few things. Has the basic vinyl-covered dash, instead of the optional stained hardwood. Has a top that has been installed, but no sidecurtains. Rear bumper and rear splash pan are there.Not sure about other small details, or options, since it still has some parts that have never been installed. Windshield is cracked from someone accidentally pushing on it, while rolling it in and out of the shop sometime back. Always been stored inside, and has never been rained on… and most of the hard work is done.Probably won’t drive north to get it for a couple weeks or so. Bill needs to make sure he locates all the parts, original MSO, and make one correction/repair on the frame alignment where something happened with the jig while welding… It has a 2×3 boxed rectangular frame underneath it — one of about a dozen that Bill and his guys did over the years. Supposedly eliminates any body flex (since these kits normally have no extra channel under the pan like the Bug and Ghia convertibles did) and improves handling, ride and gives the car a very solid feel. I think they essentially used only the center tunnel and frame horns, front and rear for mounting the torsion bars and engine — while installing a new floorboard. So, no concern about floorboard rot on a northern car — or battery rot underneath the rear passenger’s seat, and it should provide a good strong chassis and running gear should I ever want to make it a higher performance machine…Bill basically wants it out of the way, and has lost interest in completing it himself. He’s more interested in his Puma — which I can understand… If I had a nice low-miles Lafer, I wouldn’t be interested in a Fiberfab either.
So, one of these days, hopefully it will look more like this – other than than likely having different wheels/hubcaps – I prefer the painted steel wheels and hubcap look:
Thanks everyone, for helping me understand the nuances between kits, identify them, etc. You and the documentation available here have been invaluable! I’ll provide actual pics when I drive 600 miles to pick it up, and I’m sure I’ll likely bug you to death with questions on an ongoing basis!Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...Congrats on finding a TD. You’re gonna love the adventure!
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackKent, Most, if not all, Daytona MIGIs and many, if not most, early Fiberfabs had their headlights mounted directly on the radiator shell, not on a crosspiece between the radiator and the fender.
Congrats on your decision and now the fun begins. It would be a good time to make a trip to the Carlisle Kit show and take notes.
Congratulations!
I have one suggestion…please don’t start dressing like that guy in the FiberFab ad!Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Bill commented “bizarre” with reference to the Lafer front hinged doors.
Seeing as they were designed and built in Brazil, I rather doubt “the feds required that.”The door arrangment was an integral part of their top and window design. The Lafer has solid side windows. The window over the door slides up and down. The Lafer design allows occupants to open and close the doors with the side panels in place.Everytime you try to either slide under the more common side curtains on all other TD replicas, or attach them from within the car, you have a certain appreciation for Lafer’s design.Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
PMOSSBERG wrote:Congratulations!I have one suggestion…please don’t start dressing like that guy in the FiberFab ad!I promise that I won’t… plus, I’m a graybeard, not a long, lanky youngster…
I used that pic because the car was red with a white interior. Actually, this red one, which has a black interior and no bumper guards is more the look that I prefer – though with no hood strap:
I like the silver wheels and hubcaps on the red car — they look more authentic and normal, IMO — real wire wheels have ALWAYS been a very expensive option, and I’m just not a fan of the wire hubcaps:
KentT2013-02-26 16:41:47Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...PMOSSBERG wrote:Bill commented “bizarre” with reference to the Lafer front hinged doors.Seeing as they were designed and built in Brazil, I rather doubt “the feds required that.”The door arrangment was an integral part of their top and window design. The Lafer has solid side windows. The window over the door slides up and down. The Lafer design allows occupants to open and close the doors with the side panels in place.Everytime you try to either slide under the more common side curtains on all other TD replicas, or attach them from within the car, you have a certain appreciation for Lafer’s design.Not only that, but the Lafer and the Puma – both sold as complete bolt-on cars to avoid the federal bureaucracy (NTSA safety testing, EPA smog testing, etc.), seem to feel much, much more like a real car due to fit, finish, details and comfort that few, if any kit-builds ever achieve…
You could even get Pumas with factory air conditioning already installed, for example…My biggest gripe with the Lafer was always that the use of late-model taillights with integrated back-up lights just ruined the classic look of the car…
KentT2013-02-26 16:48:14Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...Factory air conditioning?? My air is conditioned by God.
It seems to me that Lafer took too many liberties with the TD design for my tastes, making it the least TD-like.I had always thought the Lafer, being a Mfg’d car imported to the USA, had to pass US safety standards in place at the time (1973?) including NTSB Rule 206 (door latches, etc) and the side impact regs (216?). I figured that was the cause of the ginormous tail lights as well.
But I was just assuming, and we all know what I am already anyway.
Turns out the Google can’t give me any evidence at all for my assumptions. So I guess I sit corrected.
edsnova2013-02-26 19:43:37
Funny thing – even though I agree w/ Roy I modified my ride a bit to make it more hot rod like – I guess it’s all personal – maybe that’s one of the reasons we all like replicas – we can do what ever we want
Schu, I believe is 100% correct. We each have drawn our improvement lines in the sand, and upgrades beyond that are not allowed in our own minds. And Schu is right on, in that the ability to make changes is most definitely is the reason that I love my replica. There really is no such thing as right or wrong. Each car is an extension of the individual owner.
Before I modified mine and put real wire wheels on, I bought 4 Panasport (Mini lites) with tires mounted that I put on….for about 5 minutes. Took them off and returned to the seller. Why? Well “they made MiGi look too hot=roddy”. Then, I spent many hours modifying my brake drums so that they would accept real wire knock off wheels. Knowing that wires were not even an option on TDs and the aftermarket wires were 48 spoke (not 72) and were 15″ (not 14’s). And I bought a new radio because I couldn’t read the dial in the sun. It came with new knobs. I spent the next two weeks making knobs and face-plates because the factory ones looked too new. I almost never listen to the radio and there was no radio in TDs. I like the sound of the engine. My left and right halves have been arm wrestling over my steering wheel since I got the car. It really should have a banjo (a’la Ed) wheel.So, if any of you Lafer owners took offense at my comments. Please know that I am embarrassed to say that you are right, I was wrong and my comments were insensitive. I apologize.I really don’t like the Lafer’s Crosely(eske) windows. (But then it’s not raining right now.)
shu & Roy, you got it right. You can do anything you want with these. The true personal car. Hack it, cut it, drop it, raise it. It’s all a matter of personal taste. After 20+ years, mine simply resembles a TD. If that should offend anybody, I really don’t care. It’s mine.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"I’m sort of a purist when it comes to original steel and wood. Whether it’s a ’32 Ford or a ’52 MG, if the car is solid, I’d rather see it restored than street rodded.
Which is yet another reason kit cars are SO awesome. And I’m all for making your kit into whatever you want it to be!Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
KentT wrote:PMOSSBERG wrote:Where in PA?It’s in Oreland, PA — not too far from the Philly area. Just 625 miles up I-81 from me… 😛This one has moved to the top of my shopping list. They got it down off the rack today and took pics for me. IMO, the hard work is done – 2×3 boxed tube frame underneath, emergency brake relocated, etc. Things still need installed, including rear splashpan, engine lid, rear bumper, etc. Overall, I’m impressed with the condition of a 30 year old kit…
It has some things that must be fixed, like the broken windshield, cracked tach glass, etc. — but so far, everything he’s told me needs work has been the case – no surprises. As I posted earlier, we’ve come to terms on price, pending my inspection of it. Pending something unforeseen, I’ll likely be driving north in a couple weeks, hauling my towbar….
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KentT2013-03-06 08:39:49Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...Just a couple observations…from afar…very far…I guess just a couple things to ask the current owner about.
My biggest concern…the entire body assembly is sitting way high. It’s impossible to tell why from a few pics, but there is huge space between both front and rear wheels and their respective fenders.
And I’m a bit put off by the way the hood meets the grill shell. The curves simply don’t match.
Nothing insurmountable here…just think you should ask.
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Thanks, Paul. I had noticed the whole fitment issue with the hood and grille. But, I had not noticed how high the body sits. I’ll discuss those issues…
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...I had the same problem with the back of my hood. I think it was taken out of the mold too soon and lost a lot of it’s curve. I made an arch shaped piece and glassed it on the inside to force the curve. Now the curve is fine but it’s still 1/2 inch too narrow in the front. Good thing it’s fiberglass, as all of this is fixable.
This was the car stored on the lift for 20 years, right? That might have something to do with the ride height?
My initial thought was that some of those hood/grille issues are due to the fact that the chrome grille surround is missing. I’ve located an original one on Craig’s List, but it is in such sad shape that I could likely only get it back to “paint condition” rather than “chrome” …
But, the whole ride height issue is something different. I want to discuss what has been done with the front and rear torsion tubes, if anything…Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...
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