May 27, 2009 at 4:00 pm #232632
I am planning a car build and have decided to duplicate the main details of the Pinto based front engine frame. The Mustang II front end is still in wide use in the hot rod comunity, and I like the simplicity (cheap) of the rear end design.
What I need is either a rolling frame to chop up, or some details of the rear mounts to be able to build from. I am hoping you guys can help, looks like a great bunch on here.
StL Dave 39960.6681944444May 27, 2009 at 4:31 pm #238971Rich BellefeuilleParticipant
If you go to the home page you can download manuals. There is a complete FiberFab Ford kit manual. Although the diagrams are not dimensioned, you’ll get a good idea of the construction. Are you intending to build a TD replica? Be prepared, I think the Manual (PDF File) is over 90 pages.
Hope this helps.
RichMay 27, 2009 at 10:34 pm #238972
Thanks. The manual is what started me down this path! It trapped me in with it’s simple sketches. You are right, I can most likely duplicate the brackets, was looking for a short cut!
Does anybody have pics of a Pinto rear before covering it up with the body? Again, maybe a frame for sale will pop up as well. Have been looking on E-bay but nothing.
Thanks for the input!May 28, 2009 at 12:25 am #238973GeoffreyParticipant
I still have all the manuals from my car. I’m not sure of any diagrams of the pinto rear in them, but I’ll check tonight.
GeoffMay 29, 2009 at 12:51 am #238974GeoffreyParticipant
I checked last night, unfortunately I didn’t find any diagrams for you If I run across some I’ll scan them and post them for you.
Best of luck, and post some pictures.
Welcome to the Group!
GeoffMay 29, 2009 at 11:52 am #238975Mark HendricksonParticipant
The best thing to do is find a Ford based CMC kit and go look at it. Maybe someone has pictures if their build.
In 2001, I bought a complete, un-built CMC/Ford TD. I had tons of pictures of every square inch of the bare frame to rolling chassis build. Unfortunatley, they were “electronic” and after selling the car to the California buyer and sending him all the pics, I deleted them from my computer.
The CMC frame was not exactly a work of art. It was crude at best and very heavy, made mostly of 2×4 and 2×3 rectangle .120 wall steel tubing. There were no neat bends or angle cut/weld for the frame kick-ups, they just stacked the 2×4 on itself. Like I said…CRUDE!
I’ll try to contact the Sacramento buyer and see what he still has. I’m not sure if the car ever got completed as he encountered health problems.May 29, 2009 at 12:28 pm #238976Rich BellefeuilleParticipant
You’re being kinda rough on our CMC/FiberFab frames!
My metric of a good frame is that it stays together when I hit a big bump
I have my standards too….they’re low, but I have my standards
RichJanuary 8, 2010 at 12:36 am #238977
Back again, still planning my build. I have a question about your TDs. What is the cockpit width and seat width? I have looked at some Locost plans for inspiration, but they are quite narrow (and I am not). What is the dimension of the cockpit floor from the seatback to the pedals? How much narrower is the footwell area than the passenger compartment area?
Thanks for your input.January 8, 2010 at 12:48 am #238978James CochranParticipant
Right now my car is buried in the driveway under a frozen snow covered cover. As soon as it melts on Monday I will be happy to measure anything you need. I will get the above dimensions and any others you need, just let me know.
JamesJanuary 8, 2010 at 1:31 am #238979Will BurgeParticipant
Dave I have a Daytona Migi VW in the midst of a frame off restoration and a CMC chevette kit that I just started so take this info for what its worth. I hope it helps.
Seat back to pedels 39″
seat back width 43″
cab wall to wall or side to side at seat back 44.5″
cab width at front of doors 40″
bottom of seat back to bottom section of firewall 46″
Seat width 39″
cab width at seat back 43
cab width along toe of fire wall 33
cab width at front of doors 40
cab depth from back of seat to toe of firewall 48″
I have no pedels in this one yet hope it helps
Washington Will40186.0716087963January 8, 2010 at 1:57 am #238980Will BurgeParticipant
I have never seen a pinto frame but I can’t imagine it would differ that greatly from the CMC chevette frame I have a couple of shots of the chevette frame without body in my gallery. Maybe Mark or others familiar with the ford frame could tell you how close it is or isn’t and if it is close I would be happy to send you some more photos and frame dimensions. I measured before when I was deciding weather to stick with the chevette engine or go with a 2.3 ranger engine and with minor mods it will accommodate a 2.3 easily. Let me know if I can help.
WillJanuary 8, 2010 at 1:02 pm #238981James CochranParticipant
Dave, my baby is still perched on the jack stands. If photos will help any. My drivetrain is Pinto, the frame is not Ford, but was made for the body as best as I can tell. I can send you pictures if you like. It is snowing today, but should hit 40 on Monday….heat wave! Get out da shorts.January 8, 2010 at 3:01 pm #238982Richard WobbyParticipant
This is from an Allison Daytona
Seat back to pedels 38″
Seat width 41″
cab width at seat back 43 1/2
cab width along toe of fire wall 29
cab width at front of doors 39
cab depth from back of seat to toe of firewall 43″
Also if your building a frame here are a couple of sites to peruse
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