I have had problems with my TD bottoming out when I hit bumps. My son said that he saw something about a 4 link coil over for it with an Itube detail. Does anyone have more information about this?
As an aside. I have noticed that the problem is reduced when I am accelerating or braking. The way the suspension is built, it seems like the differential can roll similar to cars who have had traction bars installed to overcome the problem, only worse. First, there is only a half a spring (and half the leaves) trying contain the roll and Second, the top leaf of the spring is primary unlike a regular vehicle where all the leaves are working to prevent differential roll.
Would the addition of something similar to a traction bar be helpful?
FiberFab FM1674 with Ford 302 V8. Denver CO looking for local club with events.
Step 1) Panhard Rod. This will keep the body centered over the rear axle.
Step 2) Get rid of the cut down leaf springs. Look under the rear axle spring perch and you’ll probably find they are already broken.
Step 3) Replace the springs with adjustable trailing arms. You can build mounting plates and use the existing mounting points used by the leaf springs.
Step 4) Install a pair of coil overs on the back. For an upper mount you can easily slide square stock across the top of the rear framework by the fuel tank. I currently run 500# springs on each corner.
What are you running for a rear? The Pinto rear can’t take a built 2.3 let alone a 5.0..
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
I was having the same problem with my CMC. A quick fix that has held up quite well for me was to install “old school” air shocks. The parts store had to order them for me and said he couldn’t remember the last set he’d sold. After I installed them put about 3 to 5 pounds of air pressure and never bottomed out again. That’s been four years ago.