Removing my old carpeting help!

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  • #304864
    Gregg Strain
    Participant

    @greggs

    This seemed to be such a simple project when I conceived it!

    RE: My FF TD – the old carpet is badly faded and I decided to replace it. The floor pan went very quick and I was sure the rest would be the same. Not exactly! The boot area behind the seat is wearing me down – I’m too old for this project! The builder must have used an enormous amount of glue, especially on the wheel wells. I’m down to pulling dime size pieces and leaving most of the rubber backing still attached. I’ve been reluctant to try a solvent method on fiberglass as I’m afraid of irreversible damage. Likewise using a heat gun.

    The rubber backing doesn’t bother me too much as I think the new carpeting would bond okay (MG Magic carpet kit – not too impressed with it, but going to suppliers for carpeting is not much better.)

    Anyway, if anybody has run into this problem, I’d appreciate knowing how they solved it. Thanks

    #304865
    David O’Neill
    Participant

    @davdbrockton

    Depends on whether it is epoxy or polyester resin. Epoxy is much more resilient to solvents. Methanol should be good on both but acetone may well dissolve polyester so try it on a bit that doesn’t matter to start with. Don’t use nail varnish remover as a source of acetone if you try this as it is oily and nothing will ever stick again! Acetone would be my favourite but do be cautious. Good luck, David, UK.

    #304866
    David O’Neill
    Participant

    @davdbrockton

    PS. Meant to suggest cellulose as a solvent but again ‘ve careful on polyester resin. D.

    #304875
    edward ericson
    Participant

    @edsnova

    use a putty knife and a lot of elbow grease; maybe combined with some Goof Off.

    Or better: get one of those oscillating cutoff/multi-thingies that didn’t exist 20 years ago and how did we ever do anything without them? They come with a flat blade that’s made to peel construction adhesive, mastic & tile, etc off floors. Should make quick work of your carpet remnants.

    #304877
    Royal
    Participant

    @royal

    Ed’s right.  Those multi-tools are great.  I bought mine for about $20 at Harbor Freight and yes it is a POS but it gets in and works where everything else fails.  When it quits, I’ll give it a nice burial and buy another Harbor Freight one.

    I have never really had any luck with Goof-Off.  WD40 seems to work just as good for me.

    #304879
    Rich Kallenberger
    Participant

    @kall

    I certainly agree about Goofoff.  It has serious toxic warnings.  Not really a concern for occasional use but you’ll likely spend hours leaning over the solvent-soaked carpet so you would get a big dose.  The oscillating tool sounds promising.  Also, I have seen roofers use an angle grinder with a wire brush to remove tar-saturated seam tape from roof joints.  Violent and messy but effective and solvent-free.  Not a fun job no matter how you do it.

    #304884
    Gregg Strain
    Participant

    @greggs

    You may remember from my original  post, that I mentioned I was old. And I must have had a gas pocket in my brain, because I have a multi tool. I bought it for a specific project.  I went to Dremel’s website and they have a video showing the multitool removing glued on carpet! I bought the recommended scraper blade and I will let you know when I try it this weekend. (When it gets warmer in the garage.) I’ve did some investigation of Fiber Fab’s method of manufacturing and it looks like they used polyester resin. I will probably forget about using solvents because of the material – thanks Dave and the rest of you crazies that cautioned me.

    If nothing else, the members of this forum have raised  my hopes! I want to thank you for your responses and help.  I hope I can return the favor someday.

    #304885
    edward ericson
    Participant

    @edsnova

    Glad to help. The real work is all your own.

    #304906
    Gregg Strain
    Participant

    @greggs

    Tried out the multi-tool with the rigid scraper blade this evening and …… it works. I tried one of the rear wheel wells that has been particular troublesome – compound curves.  Finding the proper angle was exciting! Took a thin layer of gel coat off. I slowed the tool down to less than half speed and the cutting was actually seemed quicker.  Effort level is fairly light and speed is fair given the difficulty on this section. A flat area is easier and quicker. Tomorrow I’ll try the flexible scraper blade on the other well.  Thanks again! Gregg

    #304907
    edward ericson
    Participant

    @edsnova

    Yeah, slow is fastest, and don’t push the tool. This thing is new to me too (got one for Christmas) and it’s a damn revelation. Just makes a lot of formerly hard things easy, and several formerly impossible things also easy.

    #304908
    Adam Al-Ahmary
    Participant

    @atacars

    This forum is a wealth of information. I too am having the same issue with Jeeves interior. I also have a multitool and I wonder why I didn’t think of this. I tried it out last weekend and it works like a charm. Keep a vacuum or dust collector handy though.

    1952 fiberfab mg td replica, 1966 volkswagen donor, dark green/tan - Jeeves

    #304909
    Toller
    Participant

    @toller

    You should also probably wear a N95 dust mask to minimize the amount of crap that you inhale. I know I fail to wear one all the time when grinding metal or fibreglass, welding and/or spray painting and am congested with foreign stuff for days afterwards. Not good for your health either.

    David B Dixon
    Port Perry ON CA
    Sabine

    #304910
    edward ericson
    Participant

    @edsnova

    That is good advice.

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