Rust in gas tank

[wannabtd]

Hi all, I’m new to the group. I hope that someday my Migi TD will look like some  of yours but for now I’m just trying to get it to run. My gas tank has a lot of rust inside, should I try to clean it or just replace it? Thanks for any input.

Gary

[Toller]

Are you positive that it is rust? Old gas with ethanol will deteriorate and a yellow coloured sand like precipitate will be deposited in the bottom of the tank and clog up fuel lines, pumps and the carb. You have to physically remove the crap, blow out or replace the lines, pump and carb. If you are not sure it is rust, test with magnet. The recommendation before replacing the tank is to remove tank, drain fuel, flush with muriatic acid, wash with gas to neutralize the acid, air dry then coat interior of tank with POR. Make sure port to fuel line or shut off value is not plugged with POR
Let us know how you make out as I expect others will offer their recommendations for alternative actions if more info is forthcoming

David B Dixon
Port Perry ON CA
Sabine

[wannabtd]

Thanks for the input. When I removed the tank and shook it upside down the particles and chips that came out were typical rust color. Do you recommend I should still go with the muriatic/POR treatment? Thanks
Gary

[Toller]

As you have the tank out of the vehicle you will have to assess how extensive the rust is This can be done with a scope inspection camera, light and mirror, tapping outside of the tank where the rust is or poking the tank with an awl to determine extent of rust and whether integrity of tank has been compromised. Have heard of some who have tried fibreglassing tank from exterior cutting out rust and welding in patch. Welding should only be done by those with experience as gas fumes and heat from welding can create a dangerous situation. If going the fibreglass route you still have to try and arrest the rusting in the tank (muriatic acid/POR). Recommend you compare cost of replacement tank (MGmagic) and cost of repair to make a decision

David B Dixon
Port Perry ON CA
Sabine

[Paul Mossberg]

Gary,

MG Magic only has VW tanks

If you TDr is VW based, buy from one of the VW parts vendors. Just one example, CIP1 sells them for $143.99.

MG Magic wants $168.99 for a VW tank.

If you have a front engine car, I believe you will have a bit of a problem finding a replacement, unless your manufacturer used the donor vehicle tank.

Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

[Bob]

I removed my leaking tank and still need to get a new tank. Been using a portable plastic tank, a little 3 gallon size, for a year now. 50 mile range without worry and haven’t actually been motivated enough yet to get the new metal tank.

MG Magic has the correct tank and instructions for cutting and welding the filler neck so it will fit under the hood. See their page:

http://www.mgmagicclassicmotorparts.com/gas-tank-vw-mg-td-replacement/

Must be sure you get the correct tank if you buy someplace else, there are larger tanks and vary by year too. I can’t say if nothing but one type will fit or not but apparently a larger (10+ gallon?) tank wouldn’t. I’m just going to get the one like MG Magic sells.

The air vent tube can’t be used for VW version. Need vented cap, which you probably have already.

I believe a new tank will need to be cleaned before using them or welding too, something about rust preventative in them I think.

Bob

[wannabtd]

Thanks for all the input guys. I’m gonna try cleaning the tank using some of the suggestions mentioned. I will let you know how it turns out.
Gary

[Paul Mossberg]

If you are able to clean the tank and it is serviceable, I recommend you seal it with something like POR-15 Fuel Tank Sealer.

 

Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

[Rich Kallenberger]

Regarding the vented cap – I started out with a vented cap but got complaints from passengers about gas smell.  Since the evap system from my engine was long gone I ended up switching to a non-vented cap, adding a vent at the highest part of the fuel tank and routing it under the chassis to the rear of the car.

😕

[John Simion]

I agree with Kall.  Edsnova taught me how to do this.  The hardest part is finding a capillary  tube, and the scariest part was drilling a tiny hole for it into the gas tank neck.  Once that was done, it was just a matter of gluing the tube into the neck with the right kind of epoxy and routing the capillary tube.  I looped mine up over a little piece of wood and then down through the “hood” to a place near the front wheel.  Never smell gas, and don’t get that “whoosh” when I open the tank any more.  With the vent, I also don’t starve my carburetor any more.  Thank you, Ed!

[wannabtd]

I put fluid into the tank and there’s a leak larger than a pin hole so I’m on to plan B, replacing the tank. Cip1 is out of stock, MG magic has them for $168. I see Parts Geek has one for $108 and the filler neck looks like it won’t need to be cut. Has anyone used Parts Geek before?

[Bob]

That’s the type with the filler neck on that shallow end  angled corner I was talking about before.

You would either need to find a way to connect a filler hose leading out to somewhere, or remove that neck and move it to the opposite corner.

To have it the same way ours are (passenger/windshield corner) means welding a plate over where that low forward facing neck is (assuming not installing backward) and cutting a hole for it into the deep corner.

BTW, can’t recall ordering from Parts Geek before.

 

• This reply was modified 8 years, 1 month ago by Bob.
• This reply was modified 8 years, 1 month ago by Bob.

[edward ericson]

Just get the early one–61-67. You might need to cut the filler neck down a couple inches. Test fit carefully, scribe it and then take it to a muffler shop to be cut and welded before you clean the Cosmoline out. They’ll charge you $20 or $30 to do it. Maybe less you you tell them what it’s for and come in with a six-pack.

Note: don’t buy the 15-gallon “extra capacity” tank. You’ll never need the capacity and it probably won’t fit.

Lots of options in stock:

https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111201075C

http://www.jbugs.com/product/113201075AB.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwydK_BRDK34GenvLB61YSJACZ8da3QTXs3hwxeNhQSBb5mVIZHU0253l8-R6xDYQ-3THIHBoCXfDw_wcB

http://www.mamotorworks.com/vw/subcategory/vw-fuel-tanks

etc.

[wannabtd]

Why an early one 61-67 and not a 1970, the year of the donor? Thanks.

[Toller]

Gary
You have posted you have a MiGi TD, if you look at the two tanks on the http://www.mamotorworks.com/vw/subcategory/vw-fuel-tanks site for <68 and >69 you will note a difference in the tank configuration. Suspect that MiGi body design was engineered to use a <68 tank so maybe a >69 will not fit in space for tank. I have a MiGi on a 68 chassis and have the <68 tank installed and do not think the >69 tank would fit

David B Dixon
Port Perry ON CA
Sabine

[edward ericson]

They all want the earlier tank because the filler neck in the later one is laid down to accommodate the external fuel door. You can use that one in a TDr but you’ll have to relocate the filler neck as described. If you need an new tank it’s easier to get the older style tank & shorten the neck. Sometimes you get lucky and don’t even need to mess with it.

[wannabtd]

So the filler neck on the older tank is on the front driver side?

[Toller]

Filler is located on the passenger side of tank

David B Dixon
Port Perry ON CA
Sabine

[wannabtd]

Mine is located on the driver side. Is this unusual?

[Toller]

Not necessarily, depends on which way the hood (bonnet) opens. On mine the hinges are on the driver side of hood so access to the filler on the passenger side makes sense

David B Dixon
Port Perry ON CA
Sabine

[wannabtd]

So with my tank filler being on the driver side front what would be the downfall of the tank from parts geek, Part Number: 17321-05442102. Thanks.

[Bob]

wannabtd wrote:

So with my tank filler being on the driver side front what would be the downfall of the tank from parts geek, Part Number: 17321-05442102. Thanks.

Probably would require a hose put onto the horizontal inlet tube that can reach above the top of the tank, 90 degree elbow for example, and a way to put a cap on that. Likewise for the smaller tube opening next to it, or plug it somehow. So getting it above the top of the tank and positioned solidly might be the most difficult thing to do.

I’m only guessing. You really need the advice of someone with that particular tank setup or has done it before.

[Paul Mossberg]

As was mentioned above, the “left side/right side” issue is relative to which way your hood opens.

You want the filler neck on the same side as the opening.

if the filler is on the same side as the hood hing, it’s difficult to get to.

Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

[wannabtd]

Thanks for the info. I understand that the filler neck needs to be on the same side as the hood opening I was wondering if the hood opening on the drivers side was unusual.

[Royal]

Nope, not unusual.  The guy that put your kit together pretty much had a choice of where to put the hinges.  Flip a coin.  (BCW excepted)  My Daytona hinges on the passenger side, but it really doesn’t matter.

[Author]

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