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Whoever said these replicas don’t rust?
Now I know why the P.O. glassed Bridget’s bottom.Ed : Time to get a set of pans ordered and pull body up and weld them in . Then you will be ready to really drive it. Rust is bad and fiberglass over it is not the way to repair it. Good luck with repair . You might even be able to drive it to speeder event in May. Wish I could go but distance is a long one. And still working on wiring. I am located in northern Ca. Fremont ca.
Wow.
Glad you found that before they dropped while ya’ll were on the road!
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
OK: update and clarifications, clarifications first: 1. That part did not fall out. I had to cut and grind it for a couple hours. It’s rusty, but not THAT rusty! 2. I am going to replace that pan piece only, hopefully by next week. I know darn well I ought to take the body off the pan and replace every damn bit of rusty metal that’s on the car, but i don’t have the heart to lose another season after what happened last year. She’ll hold together till I get back after it, which will probably be in about two years.
Now the update: I climbed under again yesterday to grind and clean-ip the parts to weld the new piece to. There is real damage on the driver’s side of the Napoleaon’s Hat, and I will probably cut a piece of 1×1 square tube to take the place of some of that. There is also rust on the framehead on that side, and I may or may cut a piece of angle or C channel to cover that as well. It’s tight with the master cylinder; I may just remove that (I have a new Brazilian one awaiting installation anyway) to give some space for the welder boys to work. The rest looks not bad, and the new bottom piece already is close to fitting after an hour with the grinder.If I can get the shop to get the fine welding done on this by end of next week, it’s on to the disk brakes and then the sway bars and such. Then a few tweaks and we’re ready for Carlisle.Ed, I’m not being facetious, – what’s next on your TDr wish list? ….and what’r ya gonna do when it’s all done? (if there is such a thing)
I guess what I’m saying is that I wrecked a perfectly happy marriage between myself and my MGTF-1500 a few years ago by finishing everything on my list. She was perfect. But my wandering eye….and you can guess the rest. No amount of counseling could repair the damage done to our relationship. A Porsche 911S was a rebound romance, but it quickly fizzled. But, by then she had moved on to another with a big chunk of my change.
Bwaaah!:lol:
I don’t know how to answer that one, Roy. I’d frankly rather NOT have to take the body off the pan and rebuild or replace the chassis!But after that? Well…I do have some “roll bar” to integrate if I ever hope to keep up with Bill.Might go for the 4 x 4.5 wheel bolt pattern–I know you know what that entails. If I could find a set of nice late MGA steelies for her. . . .Need to reface the gauges to color and font match. That sort of thing is actually more my speed.And then? Well, she’ll be needing plating and paint at some point, won’t she? And of course if the chassis is actually right and there’s some steel in her, maybe the 135 horsepower won’t feel like much, and I’ll feel the pull of a 2.5 liter block, another 50 horses . . . or a turbo . . .But I doubt that very much.I’ve never done fiberglass but heard it isn’t a fix for rusted out parts left in place. Sounds like someone wanted a quick fix, and I myself am guilty of that kind of thing!I was glad to hear the PO of my car say it had been undercoated. It seems to be in great condition, and I’m sure it helped that he didn’t take it out into the rain.Except for this rusting trouble sounds like most of your future plans won’t interfere much with driving your car.Ed, “y’alls”??
45 years ago, while living in Charleston,SC, a native corrected me stating:
“y’all is singular. All y’all is plural” (I think I heard him mumble something about Damn Yankees as he strolled away.)Well, turns out that by a lot of work and a little luck, I have transformed Bridget into a classic barn find. Check it out.
2 words, car cover. 🙂
Dust or not, that paint looks really good to me. Nice color too.If you ever do get MG wheels I’ll buy your VW wheels if you include the MG hub caps and if price is low enough for me (I’m cheap). Although I only see a pair of those hub caps in your pictures. I need to do something like that anyway.Ed. I noticed in one photo there appears to be some sort of decal or logo on the left front trunk just behind the handle. What is it?
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The Shacknewkitman wrote:decal or logo on the left front trunk just behind the handle. What is it?I’ll say it must be Mighty Mouse. Probably recognizable to some people more than others but it jogged my memory.Note to LRH – You can create those hubcaps yourself. Many of us have done the same thing.
VW chrome domes, with a flat center. Drill a hole. And add repro MG TD cap centers (item #7 here). Not an exact copy of the TD hubcap, but pretty close.
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
So it’s been a while since I updated. Been hard to find time to work on the car what with the “unrest” and all in Baltimore. No blog posts either. But FYI:
I got the car back last Saturday with the new frame head plate welded in. It’s pretty solid, but not done. There are gaps in the edges where it meets the tunnel and on the front underneath such that water could get in the tunnel. I will have to take it back to get the rest of the edges welded.I intend to do that after Carlisle tho.Installed the new disc brake kit on the front, adjusted camber to -.6 degrees on both sides. New grease and new boots on the ball joints but not new ball joints. Also not new master cylinder either. Bled them out yesterday and couldn’t figurer out why I wasn’t getting pedal. Moved to the TOP bleeder screws and suddenly things improved very much.
New shocks in front just because the old ones are about 30 years old.New sway bar in front. Looks good, urethane bushings. I also bought new rubber bushings in case the urethane ones squeak or are too firm.Not sure if I will get around to putting the “beam stiffeners” on before Carlisle. Might try to get the rear sway bar on too, depending on how work goes this week.I’m comin’ at ya, Bill.
edsnova2015-05-03 22:45:54
I am looking forward to seeing this.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"I should be way faster than you on the straight: more power and 400 lbs lighter, at least. Trouble is gonna be going around those corners. You seem to know something about how to do that. I’ll be doing my 4th run ever–and 1st with this engine and suspension. If I happen to set it up just right on the first try, I may be competitive. I give it a one-in-four chance.
Ed
You might check your pedal push rod adjustment as well into the M/C ( might be to much play ). I did not have a good pedal after repeated attempts to bleed system etc. I have replaced my M/C 3 times trying to get a better pedal in the last 7 years and it might have been that adjustment and not the M/C at all ( expensive lesson ).Thanks, Schu. Yeah, I have an adjuster on that looong push rod and I turned the screw once a few years ago to get the pedal to come up a bit. Right now it’s pretty good. I might bleed it one more time just to make sure it’s as high as it will go, then move to the adjuster. She stops good and straight right now though. Not much sponginess or fade in the bedding process.
Well here is the update. Bridget is looking good, though not all AutoX heandling goodies will be installed in time for Carlisle. Need to get a tire patched too. Here’s the update on where things stand now.
Looking good Ed!
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
I washed mine…
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Sealed underneath mine looking for leak areas, Rainx on windshield, rainx anti-fog on inside of glass, adjusted brakes, fixed windshield wipers – now going a bit faster, fixed turn signal arm and other items.
Still need to wash, clay bar, polish and detail. Running out of time.See you guys on Thursday.
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