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While letting the stain on the dash dry, I decided to install the float in my new gas tank. Trying to follow the instructions with my kit to set the fuel tank float. The rod is set to the correct length as per the instructions. However, the main unit that fits down into the tank doesn’t fit at all. Its waaaaay to long. Think of a metal channel with a slot cut out down the length of it that the float electrical unit attaches to. As it stands now I’ll have to cut 2/3rds of the channel off to get the float to fit in the tank. Has anyone else had this problem? What about just using an original VW float for a 61-67 gas tank? Any suggestions are well appreciated.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackI don’t believe the length of the channel will make any difference. The travel of the float arm is your main concern. My channel is cut down to about four inches so I could make it fit into the tank. Just be sure the location of the float mount allows for full travel.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Allen
You would have to compare the resistance values between the original VW sender and the new one. If not the same you may get false readings displayed on the new gaugeDavid B Dixon
Port Perry ON CA
SabineI second what the other guys said but based on my experience, I also recommend you make sure the top of the sending unit is level if you can possibly do so.
My gas gauge works but it’s about as dependable as a broken clock; it’s right twice a day. It sometimes won’t show full for quite a while after a fillup; then it sometimes continues to show full when it’s actually 3/4 full; it sometimes drops suddenly by 1/4 tank or more; and it shows empty when there is still quite a bit of gas visible. The resistance values have been checked and adjusted several times and the new mechanic assures me the float is okay. I’m pretty sure the problem is that the top of the tank isn’t level. The tank (and thus the sending unit) slant toward the front of the car. I’m pretty sure this makes the float either “hang” or not read properly. Not much I can do about that other than to fill the tank when the gauge starts to drop. Of course, that’s at least a clue about the tank and therefore better than nothing — and “nothing” was what I had when I got the car because the gauge then wasn’t working at all.
Thanks for the help guys. I’m going to stick with the float from the kit. That should work best with the gauge from the kit. I’ll cut the channel and make sure the float arm travels as is should. I’ll keep you posted on the results.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackAllen: The original VW float works pretty well—for the original VW gauge and exciter. For the kit gauge you ought to use the kit float and sender: they will have the correct ohms to make that gauge close to right.
As the kit setup is a universal part, made for any gas tank, it’s not surprising that it’s too long (or deep) for your particular application. Probably is made to be cut down. No problem.
If I were you I would dry test it: hook it up to 12 volt power and ground, and wire the gauge as if in the car, then move the float slowly from perpendicular down through its full travel. See how that reads on the gauge. Adjust as needed.
I made the mistake of using a 61-67 float with the kit gauge, it doesn’t work. Someday I might replace it with a universal float but, for now, I’m using the trip odometer as a gas gauge.
Vicenç - (bee sense)
Pembroke Pines, FL
1986 Aston - BCW Model 52 - "Montse II"(1983 FiberFab MiGi II - "Montse")
Measured the resistance of the float mechanism from empty through full. Runs from 4 ohms at empty to 12 ohms at full. Then removed the float mechanism from the mount bracket and cut the bracket to size after measuring the depth from top of float mechanism flange on tank to bottom of tank. Then installed the float mechanism and rechecked the ohms readings. Found a direct short. Looked around and found the rubber insulator laying on the bench. So tomorrow I’ll reassemble it and remeasure the ohms.
The only question I have now is I have to cut the electrical lead to the correct length. That shouldn’t impact the ohms readings should it?
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackThe resistance of 16 AWG is .0132 ohms per metre aka 39″. Heavier gauge wire ie 14 AWG will have a lower resistance per metre
David B Dixon
Port Perry ON CA
Sabine
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