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Jack, both Bill and his boy could out-drive any of us well enough to beat us even if we swapped cars.
If I had your hot-rod BCW my first effort on it would be new cooling tins, doghouse oil cooler, and a good remote filter/cooler. Make it clean and bolt on the kind of junk all the big bore/stroke guys use already. THEN wire it up and it should run. For how long depends on how well the builder did his job, and whether the PO flogged it half to death already.Some of the CA Speedster guys get miles on their big Type 1s. Usually doing that is a matter of paying a lot of $$ to Pat Downs or Jake Raby for the engine, though.Raby’s getting something like $15-$20k per build now, which is one of the main reasons I think the home-brewed Soob job is more my speed.edsnova2013-11-06 22:39:37
Ed, shift light. Yep that was me. I outgrew the need. “Nothing good comes from an car race” – Wobby.
Re Pex: If you would prefer to use iron or aluminum pipe, it is certainly sounds more conventional. But, there is anti-freeze that is compatible with Pex. And it sounded like something that I could do without going to a shop. (Remember that I do ALL my own work.) Another reason that I suggested it is because I was trying to visualize where to put the piping and one of the possible places was alongside the tunnel on the passenger side. It seemed that to keep the heat down inside the tub, it may be more desirable than iron. You could probably (almost) hide whatever piping you use alongside the tub, but under the running boards.Thanks for the suggestions Ed,
Hmm, $15-20k vs: a few hundred to rework the spare 1600cc that came with the BCW —So, it may be Craig’s list for the 2332 and fit a nice, reliable, easy-to-cool 1776 rebuild into the BCW…or even an almost-stock variant…Or I could just wait and buy the book you will write teaching folks how to re-engine a TDr with a SOOB == should be a best-seller!!!Got my new radiator the other day. The fit behind the grill is not bad.
Started mapping out how to run coolant lines under the car and so far it looks like the outer edge, just inboard of the running boards, might be best. There’s a channel that might allow me to tuck-up some 1 1/4-inch aluminized exhaust pipe and some body-to-pan bolt heads that could offer an easy spot for some hangers. There is also a big piece of angle iron that runs full-across the bottom of my car to shore up those running boards, and there’s a gap right at the edge there where I could maybe probably run the pipes between that thick metal and the pan. I’d rather not be cutting up that angle iron.Plan now is to take a piece of 1-inch PVC I’ve got in the shop and bend it with a heat gun into shape for a test fit. Once that looks right I’ll take it to the muffler shop and have them duplicate it with their best 1.25 aluminized–which is the same O.D. as the PVC. I’ll get them to bead the ends so the hoses will stay put, and swage the motor side because those outlets ODs, being thick-walled aluminum, are just a smidge bigger than the the inlets to my radiator.After some difficulty I got the engine on the stand.
Gonna need another cleaning before I pull the pan and valve covers, so I knocked off for the day.Jimmy called to say he’d have my transmission done mid-week. He wants me to drive up and pay him for it and take it asap, but I don’t see it happening before next weekend.Also got in touch with Tom Shiels, a guy in Canada who sells ready-to-go, fully-tested, wiring harnesses for soob-into-VW swaps (among other potentially useful items). He told me something like $600 should do it, depending on options.I told him I’m going to try to make my own first, but really it’s silly of me. He’s got the setup, and I should just get it and a Ford fuel pump and sell or return my EDIS and Megajolt kit. The cost of that stuff, plus a new carb and some welding to make the carb fit is a little more than this guy wants for the harness that will let me use all the Subaru stuff as Mr. Nakajima intended.Unless there’s some unforeseen reason the motor won’t fit in the car with the stock intakes this is the route I’m taking.edsnova2013-11-09 20:22:04
The better to remove the oil pan, Roy. You do know it rotates 360 degrees, I assume!
Besides, YOU try holding one of those up with ONE ARM while trying to get bolts started with the other hand! Sheesh!edsnova2013-11-09 22:34:32
Gotcha Ed. Don’t forget that I overhauled my engine 1 1/2 years ago. Now I’m trying to figure out how to make a yard ornament out of my old engine stand……maybe if I put it between the chartreuse fluted tire planters by the front door??? Hmmm.
(I don’t think that you believe me when I say that I do ALL my own work….even tire fluting. 😀 )The radiator fit is great. It appears to be easily capable of cooling the scooby motor. Your engine looks to already be equipped with the metal separator plate. That’s good. Carry on.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Thanks, Bill. I’d love to know what-all that separator plate is (not to mention that big plastic dohicky screwed to the back of the engine block on the left in the pic). Maybe it’ll dawn on me when I clean her up later. Or maybe I’ll see something about these while browsing in the shop manual.
Roy: I actually do believe you. But I don’t understand this talk of turning your engine stand into a decorative lawn ornament…what will you use for your next engine job then??That plastic doohickey is the separator plate. It looks metal in the pic. Change it out as the plastic unit will eventually crack. Take it off and take it to your local Dealer and tell them you want one in steel.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Amazing! Thanks, Bill. But WTF is that thing doing there? I can’t believe it plays any part in the function I have always known as “head gasket sealing.” *UPDATE: NEVERMIND; found it.
Meanwhile, got some good news and bad news as I tore into her today.Good news: the timing belt looks brand new–as if someone changed it at the recommended interval 3 or 10,000 miles ago.
This thing practically smells new still! Other stuff appears pretty good too. Maybe just the faintest bit of oil weeping past the front seal, maybe. I’mma change the belt anyway cuz I need to get at that waterpump. But it did give me the idea that maybe someone was looking after this car. Then I pulled the oil pan off.First, more good news–from a design standpoint. Not one but TWO windage trays in there. Five main bearings mean toughness. But seeing some gunky stuff down here, and when I pulled off that second tray . . .
I could see what almost looks like gasket bleed-out between the case halves.Now, y’all already know I don’t build engines all the time. But I did do a few back in the day and I don’t recall seeing this kind of thing stick to the mating surfaces inside any engine I ever witnessed apart.
I assume it’s just really dirty oil, with bits of gunky crap in it, hanging up in the tiny crevasses where parts come together like algae growing on a rock in an otherwise rushing stream. And I assume I’m just going to genuflect over it, pledge to treat her better in the future and then commence doing so.But I thought I’d post it here all the same, and see what you-all think. Gabe? Bill? Roy?edsnova2013-11-10 18:32:49
Ed, I don’t think you should worry. Keep going. Lets see what some of the other guys say. My rebuild experience always shows more surprises than this. But, I have never taken a Japanese engine apart, my experience is mostly all with British Lotus, Triumph, AH, MG, Sunbeam stuff plus a few Mercedes & 3 VWs.
Black silicone used where it shouldn’t have been and has been sucked through the engine.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Is it just the mating surfaces or has it appeared in moving parts…rocker shafts, beatings, etc.?
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Thanks, Bill. It does feel like old sealant more than it feels like gunky oil. Did not see any on the crank or rods. No sign of any on the oil pickup screen either. I’ll see what’s on the rocker shafts.
edsnova2013-11-11 07:47:06Here’s a shot of my friend who is building a T Bucket with an MR-2 engine in the back and the radiator in the front. This is the second one of these he’s building. The coolant lines are made from aluminized exhaust pipe and are welded through the frame members in order to actually become a strength member. This shot shows them coming through the front crossmember. The last one he built now has 40,000 miles on it and going strong.
That is very hot! I theorized that the coolant lines might give some strength if done right. Thanks for posting.
And, here’s my whole day in two pictures. The very abridged version.
Was hoping to get the transaxle out as well. Took all day getting out the engine trying to follow the Muir book procedures. They really don’t work in Bridget.But, as you see. It’d done. Now I know how to do it.Probably will take all day tomorrow getting the trans out. Trying to remember if I ever have had my back drums off. Maybe not. Wish me luck.Jimmy called and said he’s probably not going to have my new trans done until next weekend, so no biggie.Went and picked up the new trans. Looks good but needed some gears and stuff replaced. I blew through my budget by about $200–ended up right around $1,100 out the door.
The good news: that does include the longer clutch arm & the new German throwout bearing. Here’s Jimmy explaining the finer points of synchros.
Going to try to mock up the engine and trans tomorrow and see if it fits with normal mounts. If not, we’ve figured a way to shift the transaxle forward about an inch, and that should do it.Way to go, Ed. Continued progress…Great!
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"
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