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And we have our first failure.
No leaks, but I decided to check the inside of my swirl tank and when I unscrewed the top (bottom, in my concept) I found that the O-ring had grown about one size larger than it had been before.Looked in the cap and saw–no surprise–the epoxy was separating from the plastic that it doesn’t like to stick to.
I’m pretty sure I can get a fuel-rated o-ring to replace the one that came with the bottle. But I think I need to redo the cap with the valve centered and held on with a nut and a washer/gasket.As I thought, the plastic itself seems to be the same type as the gas can.I put the thing back together to see what a few days more will do.(Cross-posted from Allison gas tank thread, in response to Mustang_evetS, who observed that an aside in a technical post about fiberglass tanks being destroyed by ethanol mentioned that epoxy mfg’s admitted to some degradation as well):
Steve: Thanks for your concern. This link opens the Quick Steel data sheet as a pdf. This particular flavor of epoxy is made to plug holes in gas tanks. Supposedly it’s impervious to gas and ethanol.There’s no sign of degradation of the epoxy so far. The peel-off is an adhesion issue, which I expected. Right now (and barring any new data over the next week or two–this thing’s staying full of gas for the foreseeable) I plan to redo the cap with a through-fitting and a rubber gasket, then replace the O ring.When it’s done it will be out of sight even with the front hood open for inspection, so as much as polished copper appeals, this isn’t the place for that.Update:
No time yet for the blog post but, progress was made easter weekend.1. Bought a $5 gas can cap from Home Depot and peeled the gasket out of it for my swirl tank. Fits perfect and solves what may be the last weak point there. The rig has not leaked yet.2. Got some brass adaptor bits for the oil sender port. I need to run the stock sender for the idiot light plus a cap tube to my gauge. And it all has to fit under the alternator. And apparently it does–barely.3. reinstalled the engine to test fit my oil fill. NG. Cut and re-epoxied that item and now it may just fit (pending reinstallation of the body parts).4. Mounted my fuel filter on my diamond plate. Fixed attachment points for all that.5. Cut back of the tub to fit the air intake. Cut the air intake to fit the car. Bought some plumbing supplies to mock up the needed bends for all that, and mocked them up. It’s really quite a mockery…6. corresponded with Tom Shiels about the wiring harness. Measured needed lengths to all the electronic components and sent word back to him. He says he’s building the harness in the coming week.7. Dropped the steel crossmember running board support out and began modifying it to accomodate the coolant lines. (Cut cut, bend bend, hammer, hammer, cut, etc.). Got about 40 percent done.8. sawed open the floor pan for the big coolant lines and mocked up the passenger side in PVC.Pop quiz! I will buy a beer at Carlisle for the first member who correctly guesses why I just bought this.
edsnova2014-04-23 21:55:38
Ed, I could probably answer, but when I click on the link it says “This page cannot be displayed”. Oh well.
Sam
Ed, it’s obvious that you can’t parallel park worth a damn. So you bought this to help you tell how close you were to the curb.
Or, it is more elegant, mounted under your front bumper, than a tennis ball hanging from the ceiling of your garage.eh?? do I win??OK, link updated. Sorry guys.
Roy: were you able to see the item already? because you are closer than you’ve any right to be.But no. No beer for wiseacres.Revolutions of drive shaft using a magnet for proof of motion for the computer?
If I am right, I’ll take that beer in 2015 at Carlisle.mustang_evets2014-04-23 22:31:24
Installing an alarm on your refrigerator?
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"I’m gonna give it to Steve. No magnets; just a daisy wheel cut from steel. Should go on the CV joint. The Soob computer needs to see a 5 volt square wave signal for vehicle speed. Without it, the car runs, but tends to stall out at traffic lights. It’s also rev-limited to 4500rpm. This thing, plus the “wheel of death,” supposedly makes everyone happy.
You need to explain your ” wheel of death”.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"“Wheel of death” is what the soob swappers call the thing that gives the sensor its signal. It’s just a five-bladed thing you bolt on where the CV meets the axle. I’d like to put it up at the transmission, but maybe there’s no room there. We’ll figure it out.
I’m going to owe you a beer for all the research you are doing on this swap. I look forward to meeting you and comparing builds.
Shiels says my wiring is on the way back to me.
So now it’s down to just+air intake+radiator support, and all pipes (+heater)(+fan shroud)+Clutch and accelerator cable+fuel line install (and swirl tank finals, fuel tank fix, etc)+exhaust fabrication+a few welds (Trans mount finals, tunnel, etc)+belt+install wiring+sort+sort/fix+reinstall interior, fix stuff I cut upThree weeks to get it all done.Fingers crossed.It doesn’t have to be finished to get her there. Just have to get her drivable.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"I think I’m going to shoot for “towable.”
So I ruined my bowden tube today looking to shorten it. There really is not way to make a bowden tube shorter. I should’ve left it alone.The story there is prosaic. Because I set my whole transaxle forward 1.2 inches or so, my clutch cable needs to be about that much shorter, and the bowden tube–bless its little spring steel heart–ought to be likewise.And turns out there are several different lengths of VW bowden tubes in the catalogue.But unfortunately, Bridget already has the shortest one. Dang.I ordered a new one, and a new clutch cable since the old one was starting to fray. It looks like there are two ways to get the right bend in the tube: 1. Fabricate a new bracket for the back part–the part that bolts to the side cover–with a one-inch stretch. Or 2. Cut an inch off the “hard line” clutch cable tube that emerges from the tunnel just atop of the torsion tube. That looks like the easier route. I could maybe cut that nice and neat with my tubing cutter, but I’m worried it’s maybe flared or made thicker in its final inch so as to be reinforced where it fits into the bowden tube. So.Also found a mess of rust up under the frame head. The PO had glassed everything over but some of this glass is coming loose now and under it is, well, nothing. Gonna be pretty embarrassing when I take this mess to the muffler shop for tubes. Those boys gonna laugh hard.Maybe they can fix it though: looks like less glass on the front area than the rest of the pan. If they can grind it off maybe they can weld some metal back in there. Maybe I don’t need to buy a whole new frame head, etc…The good news? Got my coolant lines all mocked up–all the way to the engine on the passenger side, and with just one tricky section missing on the high side. Also got the heater hoses squared away.But bad news: While messing with the clutch cable and etc. I also noticed that the engine is on wrong yet again. I can move the throwout bearing arm easily by hand, same as last time. This means something is not right–the pressure plate ought to make that thing all but impossible to move. No idea why this could be. I aligned all the clutch parts with the align tool. I took out the thing that screwed me up last time. The engine seemed to go on right. . .So now the engine has to come back out and go back in again before I can take the car to the muffler shop.My guy says he can do it this week if I can get it there.Really frustrated now.
I got my proximity sensor in the mail and of course it???s not what I ordered. The PN matches, but instead of three wires, it has two. sh*t.I emailed the seller, and he got right back to me:
“Thanks for contacting us!
There is an illustration on the item showing how to wire this part. Please refer to it.
Please feel free to contact us if you have any further problem. Thanks and have a nice day!– californiafix”
Sure enough, there is a diagram right on the unit. The diagram is labeled in Chinese.
So turns out two wire is oh-so-much better. It replaces bot the NPN and PNP type switches, depending on polarity. Or something. I know I need a NPN-type switch. So all I have to do it get out my electrical engineering cap, place it on top of my head, et voila! In this case the brown wire goes to the positive terminal. Um. Maybe?
But will it give me the 5 volt signal the Subaru ECU wants? As this one works as a voltage drop, will I be getting a 5/12 signal? Or a 12/0 signal? Or (what I think is the required) 5/0 signal?
Can???t read the diagram. I???m guessing it???s Blue wire to + (opposite of shown, since I’m NPN, nor PNP), brown to negative with the sensor wire from the ECU then grounded or hooked to brown.
–BUT NO. The instructions say ???The process is the same for replacing a NPN 3-wire sensor. In this case you would just connect the brown wire to the input and the blue wire to the ground of your power supply.???
So maybe that means no + connectional all? What the FFFKKK do you mean by “INPUT?”
The hell of it is, if I had a 3-wire rig I could wire it in my sleep, because this guy already showed the way:
Blue – Ground
Black – VSS signal to ECU
Brown – 12volt ignition power – this is to power the LED that lights up when it detects metalWhy does every little thing have to be a hassle?
???????????????????????
Which, when translated from Chinese means, “Ah, the inscrutable Chinese”If it were easy, everybody’s TDr would be Soobie powered.You’re a ground breaker Ed (no electrical pun intended). And a role model for us all.PMOSSBERG2014-04-29 09:56:26
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Ed,I believe the + within the circles on the Figure 2 diagrams are screw heads not polarity symbols. If you look alongside them, you will see “0V” and “24V” which indicate the power source. That was confusing wasn’t it?That Panasonic write up does have what I think is the correct information you need to wire the sensor.
The key words appear to be ” The process is the same for replacing a NPN 3-wire sensor. In this case you would just connect the brown wire to the input (on Subaru CPU) and the blue wire to the ground of your power supply (frame ground).“What is the worst that could happen? It looks like you would be rev limited to 4500 RPM and the engine would die when you pull up to a stop sign. You would then know it was wired wrong.mustang_evets2014-04-29 10:54:04
Here is something that might help too. It describes the difference between the two types of sensors.
Ed, this quote from the Panasonic site you linked to should be the way to hook up the 2-wire unit. This unit takes its power to run from the current flowing through it to the ECU, so you don’t need 3 wires. It just daisy-chains into the ECU with one end to the ECU and one to ground (chassis or aground going directly to the battery)The process is the same for replacing a NPN 3-wire sensor. In this case you would just connect the brown wire to the input and the blue wire to the ground of your power supply.
But as Steve says above, what’s the worst………
looking fwd to when the rubber hits the road..
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