April 12, 2012 at 8:55 am #234092
Just a note ,,if you have a chevette kit remove the side of the hood and motor mount FIRST and the starter will just slide out . Dan RApril 12, 2012 at 3:32 pm #250036Larry MurphyParticipant
Dan, I removed my hood side panel last year to replace the ign. module and was amazed at how easy it was to get to all the stuff on that side of the engine with the panel off. I gave some thought to making it easier by using twist lock fasteners to replace the bolts,but then I reasoned that since I used new bolts and nuts, it would be easier to remove it next time .I think that the starter was hard to get to on the Chevette as it came from the factory as well.April 14, 2012 at 4:40 pm #250037
Larry, I was thinking of cutting the lower side panel at the fender and using the same type of lock as a TD but used the screws to put it back but I will in the end up doing it if i ever have to remove the side panel again . I was thinking of using a garage type of lock. Dan RApril 15, 2012 at 9:44 pm #250038DickParticipant
How hard is it to remove the vertical left side of the hood to get at the starter?April 16, 2012 at 9:02 am #250039
Dick ,,it is not hard just a lot of screws. the side panel is light and just slide up and out. TIME is the trouble Dan RApril 16, 2012 at 9:37 am #250040Larry MurphyParticipant
Dick, On my BCW, the bolts that held the fenders and hood side panel were like a round headed carriage bolt with a square shoulder that gripped the fiberglass and kept the bolt from turning as the nut on the other side was being tightened. The bolts had no slot for a screw driver and having been in place for many years,crud had built up in the threads. It helps to spray them with some type of penatrating lubricant and let them soak before trying to get them out. The square shoulder will most likely round out the hole when you try to remove the bolt. I replaced the bolts with hex headed ones so next time removal will be much easier. You may need to loosen some of the bolts that hold the fender to the side of the cowl to allow the hood panel to slip out.April 16, 2012 at 3:32 pm #250041
Larry,, i guess I was lucky the bottom bolts were 3/8 hex, easy to remove and were also stainless the screws you can see were also stainless i replaced the slotted screws with Philips using stainless with trim washers . all of about 15 minutes to remove. It is longer to replace the panels but not bad . I guess this winter next year i will cut the panels when i find locks that i like . Dan RApril 19, 2012 at 11:05 am #250042DickParticipant
I think I found all the screws. Are there any hidden ones?April 19, 2012 at 8:25 pm #250043
Dick,,mine had 3 at the grill 2 on the rear of the side panel 5 under the fender I had to put new wire connectors to the headlights . it takes longer to put it all back together , but not long ,just keep the screws loose untill all in and lined up then tightened use stainless steel bolts ,washers, and nuts for next timeMay 26, 2012 at 10:36 am #250044BEBOPParticipant
Same story here. I had to remove the passenger side bonnet panel in order to put points in the distributor which turned a one hour job into an all day project because one time I bought one of those Pertronix magnetic electronic distributors and out it on and it ran great up until about 2000 RPM and it would backfire. No biggie, I turned it 180 degrees opposite direction and the dern thing still backfired at exactly 2K RPM. I finally found the points that were in there and guess what? The points in that Bosch distributor were listed as being out of an Audi BOAT motor. How about that? So did anybody put elec. ignition on their old Ford?
Randy in Chandler Arizona, great B-bopp'in teritory. I must have the only one in the country made by Rich Industries in Port Elizabeth, South Africa, on a 1986 Ford Cortina (english ford escort) It's a 1600cc straight four cylinder front engne, 4 speed, changed from right side driver to left side with several shafts and u-joints. BEBOP because I once had an MGB with license plate MG-BEPOP in Virginia.May 26, 2012 at 11:38 am #250045
Bebop ,,,well i guess that is why i like chevette there NO mods. to confuse me because there no after market parts outher than stock type replacement . as to the points if they make and break contact aslong as the spring tention and gap is correct they should not missfire, boat points if i remember are a little stronger in the spring , boats stay at higher RPM for longer perids of time under ruffer operating conditions . I rather have an electronic ignition system but when they go bad there is no repair no warning, I now keep an extra modual under my seat in my tool kit after one went out on the road good luck Dan
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.