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WooHoooooooooo…….
I’m finally getting heat for the barn today! Found a really nice 250K btu portable that should heat the lower level of the barn just nicely.
FINALLY… I can get this project off the ground. Hope to start disassembling the body parts and going over the chassis in the next few weeks.
Pictures to follow.
Regards, Doug
Doug,
It’s great to watch someone else put the puzzle together. Mine is a Duchess so I’m not sure I can be much help but I’ll enjoy the show.
My donor chassis is (or was… I might say) a 1972. The P.O. saved most everything needed to complete my build, but the gas tank leaves much to be desired. The cost to clean and seal what I have along with trying to relocate the filler neck (not to mention buying the correct neck with cap) is way too cost prohibited!
What have you all used?I’d like to get a 61-67 tank and just shorten the filler neck and rock-n-roll. I believe you have to turn the tank backwards to do it… does this interfere with the fuel sending unit?Sorry if I’m asking a no brainer question here… I sit here at work some nights and my mind wanders! lol (and I do not have my books here)Doug. My chassis is from a 1971 Beetle and the tank is from a 63 Beetle. I cut about 2-1/2 inches out of the filler neck. Tank is ready to install in the body. Have to get the fuel line fitting for the bottom of the tank and then I’m good to go. You are correct in that you’ll have to turn the tank around. There is that fuel tank tub that goes in first band mine didn’t fit worth a darn so I modified it enough to fit (I think). Look around at some VW shows and search eBay and http://www.thesamba.com classifieds for the tank. They turn up frequently.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackYa… I noticed the tray that the tank sits into does not fit the opening. did you have to cut out the body to make it fit or the tray? I’m thinking body just incase the tank should ever leak…
My plans are to buy a new tank… Unless you borescope it, you never know what your getting with a used one.Here is a good quality one from Wolfsburg West. 130$ isn’t too much to spend if the one you have is in poor shape… :STG-inc.2013-01-19 22:57:43
I cut out the tray. If the tank ever leaks it’ll leak down outside the body. I had to do quite a bit of trimming and fitting. The problem with mine is the tray has a rounded part on the bottom and that came in contact with the flat body tub. So I cut out the tray rounded portion to miss the body by about 1/4 inch.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackThanks for the info Allen!
My tear down begins today when I wake up from my nap after work. lolI should do alright with the chassis stuff (save for the modification stuff… where I might have a few Q’s). But I’m sure this thread will expand greatly when it comes to assembly… It has been many years since I did this last!Pictures to follow!Anyone have any suggestions for guage alternatives to the white face ones that MGMajic sells? I’ll go with those if I have to, but I’d like something a little more classic looking. (Must fit the VW kit though)Thanks!Regards, DougDoug,
I believe MG Magic sells Dolphin gauges. You might find other options here: http://www.dolphingauges.com/dolphin_gauges.htmlor, you could go with VDO. A lot of our TDs have VDO:Did someone say gauges?
My idea is obviously not for everyone, but I have found that an original VW Bug speedo solves a number of potential issues in the VW-based kits:
1. It works with the cable feed from the front wheel, without any adapter gears. (Mine is dead-on accurate at 60 mph)
2. (If it’s a ’72 and up) It reads to the TD-correct 100 mph.
3. It has an integral fuel gauge that works well with the stock VW tank–and saves a gauge hole on the dash for something else–CHT? Oil temp?–whatever.
4. It is very nearly the correct-for-TD 4 3/4-inch diameter face.You pair it with a 4 3/4 tach from Classic Instruments abd it looks prety slick, if I do say so myself, which I do.
My only problem is… Don’t wanna have to replace THIS!!!
STG-inc. wrote:
Or have to go thru the expense if buying the original TD center panel…
(aka…ECONO build) 😉 STG-inc.2013-01-21 11:12:21
That’s a beauty of a dash, man. But you would not have to replace it. Originally I just made my speedo and tach holes bigger. Got the stock ’72 bug speedo on the fleabay for $40. The Tach was like $135 delivered, new. I also bought a new chrome trim ring for the speedo for like $15. And the whiteface gauge kit–which is not needed if you want to stay black.
So the whole rig then was under $200.
Add an oil pressure and volt gauge from any vender at $40 each and you’re done. Fill the other holes with key switch and horn button. Or other gauges–oil tem, head temp of you’re building hot, or are paranoid. Or put in a clock and a barometer, whatever.
Food for thought for sure! Thanks. I will have plenty of time to research this and see if it might be the route to take. Never been much of a woodworker…
(cut twice… measure once…)Well, just a thought. The Dolphin gauges are sweet also, IMHO. Plus they’ll all match and drop right into the holes. Easy peasy! And at least as cheap as my way.
Yes, I am in an email “daisy chain” with them as I type this. The web site is completely user unfriendly, with just a “buy it now” strategy and ask questions later when you can’t get it to work. I need to know what comes with the set and what does not… Seems they do not understand that concept from the emails I am getting from them. 😕
Alan Merklin on the Speedster site used them in at least one build. Gave then thumbs up. He’s built/rebuilt 30+ Speedsters so he knows a lot of stuff we’d probably have to ask questions about.He’s a super cool guy and would probably respond to your questions if you contacted him though the site.
Looks like I will be going with the Dolphin gauges (price being the strongest selling point)
Anyone have suggestions on mechanical or electronic?
Does anyone have the mechanical set? If so, does the stock speedo cable directly bolt up and work as it should? (Dolphin says yes…) I know I’ll have to have a longer cable…
The electrical speedo requires a adapter that is adjustable… Anyone here have that kind???
WOW… lots of questions… Hell… this is just the beginning! 😮
Thanks, Doug
My speedo is the mechanical kind that came with the kit. If you use that be sure to get a VW Bus cable. That’s the one that’s long enough. Mine just connects right up but the speedo was made to marry up with the stock speedometer system.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackMy gauges came with the kit and they alll sat Vintage Reproduction on the bottom of the gauge face. Speedometer, tachometer, fuel, amp, oil temp and oil pressure.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The Shackmight check vdo gauges. My Fiberfab kit had them. Speedometer 3 3/8 ” Tach also. Other gauges 2″. Replacing mine with Opel speedometer and tach. Using old gauges on another project.
Spirit industries has 6 gauge black face Dolphn gauge set for $210. White faced gauges $195.
Ya. VDO gauges are somewhat pricey! And they only have black in the VW. Dolphin has any color and they say they will work for my allpication (though it does come with a water temp). Doing a little more research, MG Magic sells the same set of dolphins with the water gauge. I know with the electric gauge you need to have a “pick-up” unit for the speedo, but I need to know if the mechanical speedo hooks directly to the speedo cable.
Regards, DougSTG-inc.2013-01-23 06:29:44
I swear this damn thing must have been used in the shoot out with Bonnie and Clide!!! How many times do you think the P.O. tried to hang these fenders???
This is going to be fun……
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