Valve Adjusters

[Bill Gayler]

I have a vw friend thats rebuilding the upper end of my MIGI that has a 70VW engine. He said the valve adjusters needed to be replaced, so I bought a set of SCAT adjusters with the flex foot. The set comes with 4 shims that go beneath the rocker stands for added clearance. However once installed, he said that there is no clearance on the adjusters. The rocker stand studs aren’t long enough to add more shims plus he thinks that the valve covers may be in the way if he adds more shims. Has anyone had this problem. If so, what’s the fix. Thanks in advance,

Bill 

[edward ericson]

Did you get new heads, or a valve job done?

Could this problem be on the other side of the rocker–i.e. the pushrods?

[Bill Gayler]

NOS heads are stock 1600 dual port type 1 and a new set of valves,springs,retainers and keepers.

[Bill Gayler]

I was told these ball swivel adjusters were a replacement for the stock adjusters that were more friendly to the valve train geometery. Supposedly, the stock pushrods are usable.

[Paul Mossberg]

This is SCAT’s description of the Ball Swivel Adjusters:

These VW swivel ball adjusting screws from SCAT prevent valve stem wear
caused by the side load of cams with high lift and high valve spring
pressure in your aircooled Volkswagen…. a must for any high
performance air-cooled engine. Installation requires no special tools,
and the screws have slotted heads. Kit comes with rocker stand shims for
proper height adjustment and fits Volkswagen Bug, VW Bus, and more!

Just my opinion, but I don’t think they are necessary in a stock motor. Bug motors run for hundreds of thousands of miles with original equipment parts.

That said, the top end really shouldn’t be any different in a hi-perf head and a stock head. I’m gonna bounce this one of my secret friend.

Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

[Paul Mossberg]

Another opinion from off our list:

The shims are to correct the rocker to valve stem geometry, which probably changes because of the non-stock valve adjusters. So you might (repeat, might) need to make up custom length push rods.

I’m sticking with my original opinion, you have a stock motor. I think a replacement set of stock adjusters would be fine.

Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

[Mark Hendrickson]

Bill,

I am currently working on two Beetles, a ’74 and a ’69. One will become a front straight axled Volksrod.

I had a valve train problem with the MOFOCO Streetwise 1776cc motor in the ’69. And had to correct the problem. It is a 90+ hp modified motor that MOFOCO used a stock valve train in. NO GOOD!  with heavier valve springs and a higher lift cam.

There are a couple different styles of “swivel” feet adjusters. I used the Porsche style adjuster, not the Mazda style “elephant foot”. I used stock ratio OEM rockers on SCAT solid rocker shafts.

IMHO…you don’t need swivel foot adjusters for your stock motor.

If you choose to use them: In order to keep the rocker arm geometry correct, you really SHOULD NOT use the shims under the rocker shaft mounts, but SHOULD use a new set of cut-to-fit pushrods and machine the valve side of the rocker arm to let the adjuster screw deeper into the rocker to correct get the correct rocker arm geometry. I had to do this. It was a PITA, but it’s done right and bullet-proof now.

I have a set of stock adjuster screws still in the blister pack if you want them…just pay me the shipping cost and I’ll ship them to you. The lock nuts on OEM VW adjusters are 8mm x 1.00  a hard one to find. So, don’t lose yours!

Pink MG40344.5873611111

[Paul Mossberg]

See, that’s what I said!

Mark just added real knowledge to my “opinion”. Nice work Mark.

Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

[Mark Hendrickson]

I learned it all from Paul

If you go the cut-to-fit pushrod route, get aluminum, not chrome-moly. Chrome-moly has almost no heat expansion and would require a much different valve lash adjustment…usually zero. I used the aluminum pushrods and use .004″ for valve lash (higher lift cam) versus .006″ for stock.

The last VW longblock I bought to install in the first Pink MG was a MOFOCO Streetwise 1776cc with hydraulic lifters…that’s the best way to go on the street. Pertronix got rid of the points and the hydraulic lifters got rid of adjusting valves WOO-HOO!

[Bill Gayler]

Guys, I really appreciate the insite. I buy most of my parts from a local supplier in the Houston, Tx. area. My mechanic friend that’s working on the motor said the adjusters should be replaced and the ball swivel type were the only ones in stock. I wanted to get the engine sealed up asap so I purchased the swivel type and it’s just not working out as hoped. I guess I’ll just get the stock adjusters and forget the “trick” stuff. Thanks for all the help

[Author]

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