Wiring Problem

[Rick]

Hey guys I need help.

I finished confirming the location of all the wires and “tacked” everything in place under the dash so I could confirm it all worked when the battery was connected. 

I followed the diagram from the “Download Manuals” section on this website and almost everything lined up.

However I’m having a problem and I think I’ve stared at it too long cuz I can’t figure it out.

When I connect the battery my #1 fuse blows immediately.  I’m pretty sure I have it wired correctly (as per the diagram) but I’ve got to be missing something because I’m stumpped.

It looks like I’ve got something screwed up between the battery, ignition, and amp meter.

Here is how I have it wired.  The black wire I put back just the way it was when I took everything apart but I honestly don’t know if that’s correct.  Any suggestions?

[Royal]

Rocky, give me a call.  252 671 0067

[Anonymous]

   Check your starter solenoid wiring. Solenoid is connected to battery and also to ignition switch. Your wiring diagram only shows wire from ignition switch to starter solenoid.

[Anonymous]

  Starters draw 60-150 amps when cranking. Will blow your fuse. Starters not fused, power direct from battery to starter solenoid large post. Wire from ign switch operates solenoid to supply power to starter from battery.

[Scott A Chynoweth]

rockyx if I read your drawing corectly you have 2 hot leads going to the ampmeter.you show the amp ground going to the positive on the battery,run it to ground see what happens.

[Rick]

1old buzz, according to everything I’ve read the amp meter is not grounded.  Plus I double checked this morning and I have everything wired just like the wiring diagram from this website.  It seems odd to me too but I followed the directions…my wife would be proud.  I still think I may have mis-read something so I’m still checking.

Roy,
Thanks for the phone call and confirming that I was heading in the right direction with my diagnosis.  I am looking for an improper ground but have not found one yet.

George,
I didn’t include everything in my drawing…sorry.  I do have the positive side of the battery connected to the starter solenoid then have the wire from the solenoid running to the ignition. 

What seems odd to me is that the connection from the battery runs through the amp meter and then straight to the fuse block.  Seems to me it should run through some type of regulator before it hits the fuse block.

Does anyone have a diagram on how to wire WITHOUT an amp meter?  Maybe I should try that?

Still open for help.  Thanks guys

[Dan Rosa]

Rocky ,as far as I know an AMP meter gauge, all power goes through it for the vehical only 2 wires are needed , the + side of the gen. or alt.. to the + on the AMP gauge ,the other side of the AMP guage wire it to the main wire powering the car .before the fuse block . remember to use heavy gage wire . Dan

[Royal]

Lets try this: 

1.  Disconnect the battery.  Take all fuses out.  Turn off the ignition switch.  Turn all lights/radio/wipers/defrost and anything else that is electric off.  Disconnect the voltage regulator.  

2.  Now, get out your volt/ohmmeter on the ohms scale.  Hook up a good ground with an alligator clip. 

3.  Go to the fuse block with the other probe and go through both sides of each fuse, one at a time looking for any ground.  There should be none, but you most certainly have one.  

You said that the 30 amp fuse blows immediately upon hooking up the battery.  Therefore, I would expect that you will find a ground on one of the fuse terminals, probably on the “upstream” side and probably also not on the block that is switched by the ignition switch (since the key is out – off).  If the ground was on the “downstream” side of a fuse, then (assuming that that fuse is smaller than 30amp fuse) you would expect that fuse to blow. 

I forgot the remote possibility yesterday (in our phonecon) that the voltage regulator may have shorted.  Check the lead which runs from the voltage regulator to the battery/ammeter.  

I sure hope this works, so I can get some sleep.  🙂

[Rick]

UPDATE;

I spent some time going through every wire to make sure everything was
properly connected and there were no improper grounds.  I
reconnected/confirmed all the wires were laid out per the wiring diagram
for my kit car version. And then I verified the wiring was correct by
hooking up my battery charger to each item and turned it on; blower,
wipers, lights, etc.  So I know each segment works and is wired
correctly.

I pulled the ignition to verify there were no shorts in it and the wires were not cross (something I’ve done before)…all good.

I then removed the amp gauge/ignition wire from the fuse box and hooked
up my battery charger to that same spot just to see if it was a wiring
issue or if it was a fuse box issue.  My battery charger fuse blew! 
Luckily it resets itself.  So I tried it again…same thing.

Then I followed Roy’s instructions – disconnect the battery; remove all
fuses; turn off ignition switch and all electrical items; and disconnect
the voltage regulator.  When I checked the individual fuse seats
themselves I found that all the inside slots were grounded.

So, is the fuse block supposed to be grounded like my drawing below shows?

Here is a slightly updated drawing of what I’m looking at.  It only
shows the connection to the first 2 fuses since I can’t seem to get past
them.

Still looking for help

[Royal]

Sounds like you have found the problem.   I really don’t know what you mean by “all the inside slots were grounded”.  If you mean the all terminals where the fuses go are grounded, they should not be.  Separately, there is really no reason to ground the fuse blocks base, but they often are through the mounting screws/bolts that secure it inside the car.  If I understand your description, it seems that if you disconnect the ground wire that goes to the fuse block all your problems would go away?   Sometimes the fuse block is used as a convenient place for tying a bunch of wires together.  Not necessary but it keeps the connection points in one place.  If the fuse still blows, it may be that the fuse block mounting screws are the culprits.  

[billnparts]

The fuse block is just a distribution point for the hot wires. There should not be any ground wires
going to it.

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

[Rick]

Wooooooohooooooo!!!!

Thanks everyone.  I removed the ground wire from the fuse box and replaced burnt fuses, turned the key and the engine sprang to life!

I did have a couple other fuses blow so I still have some troubleshooting to do but this is a major milestone.

Thanks again for everyone’s help and input.

[Royal]

Rocky, great news.  

[billnparts]

You could install circuit breakers like these instead of glass
 fuses. They reset when you turn off power to them. Beats replacing glass fuses.

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

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