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Bill, This windshield conversion looks great. I have been considering doing the same for quite a while. Is yours a fiberfab kit? I was surprised to hear that there was some metal reinforcement in the existing fiberglass raised flat areas. I have the 1952 MGTD brackets and have been looking for a windshield frame. My measuring convinced me that the cowl width of the kit was the same as the original MGTD, if the flat raised areas were only not there. You have verified my thinking. I only wish I were as capable of the fiberglass work that you have done. How do you plan to deal with the soft top connection to the upper windshield frame? I think your new windshield is not as tall as the kit one was. I presume you will need to modify the soft top mounting to allow for the lower profile. Please keep us posted as you proceed.
BobF
Kieth, I really do appreciate your response. I never would have guessed the idea of cutting short sections of the small leafs to accomplish the proper fit into the torsion bar arms and grub screw attachment points. Did you do that to all 12 of the short leaves in both the upper and lower tubes? You had said earlier that you had removed leaves from the cut front beam before the ice set in, but it was unclear how many you removed and how well it worked out once you were able to test it this spring. I like your approach, and would like to do mine based on your findings. Also can you tell me your feelings on any importance to removing the same amount of leaves from both tubes? I am guessing that it is not that important to have the torsion bars in both tubes equal, but if I am wrong I would like to be corrected before I put it all back together. I am still in the early phase of this build, so unable to do a road test yet. Thanks again.
Did you ever find a source for the VW vertical E break conversion? I am looking for the same thing, but not having much luck. I have never even seen a picture of one, but I presume it is a handle that is easier to reach in these MG VW kits.
keith true on <SPAN wrote:I just removed the leaves from a cut front beam in one of my cars.Then the ice set in and I won”t get to try it till spring.I was going to cut the beam and put back to original but the ride height has not changed.That really surprised me.I thought there would be a substantial drop.It did not surprise the front end guy I use.I will find out in the spring.I will try it,add if I need to,or cut and reweld if I have to.When I get it where I want it I will do the same to the other cars.
I am interested to learn what results you found this spring. I am a newbie here so please excuse my goof on the previous post. I think I know how this works now. I am working on a 1970 VW pan and a fiberfab MG kit. I am rebuilding the front end, and would like to solve the torsion bar issue now. I accept the expertise of Pink MG on this subject, but like you I am working with a upper tube, that has already been cut and turned. I want to try to deal with the problem by removing small torsion bars as needed. I currently have the lower right torsion arm removed and the torsion bars loose and shifted to remove and proceed. What got me to this point is that I am replacing the lower right torsion arm, as a means of replacing the ball joint. I found it cheaper to put a new torsion arm on with the ball joint already in, as opposed to replacing the ball joint only. I was surprised to find two of the large lower torsion bars broken on the right hand side. I had presumed that the torsion bars were unbreakable. In any case, I will be replacing the torsion bar bundle also. I think I plan to leave some of the small torsion bars out, but not sure how many. One thing that bothers me about leaving out some of the torsion bars is that the inside end of the torsion bar arm seems to be recess cut in the pattern to capture all 10 torsion bars. I relize that the locking set screws are there to prevent the torsion bars from slipping, but it also seems that the recess cut in the torsion bar arms also aid in that effort. It almost looks as though the precut tosion arm slots provide the main means of preventing twist, and the lock set screws main function is to prevent the torsion arms from moving out away from the torsion bars. Is it wise to sacrifice that twist locking factor by removing torsion bars? Also I am looking for advice for the need to remove the same number of small torsion bars from both the bottom and top torsion tubes. I am not looking forward to taking the top tube apart again to remove torsion bars if it is not necessary. Any input from you folks would be appreciated. I think I have read every posting on this site, and the knowledge gained is invaluable. This is a great site and much appreciated.
keith true wrote on <SPAN wrote:I just removed the leaves from a cut front beam in one of my cars.Then the ice set in and I won”t get to try it till spring.I was going to cut the beam and put back to original but the ride height has not changed.That really surprised me.I thought there would be a substantial drop.It did not surprise the front end guy I use.I will find out in the spring.I will try it,add if I need to,or cut and reweld if I have to.When I get it where I want it I will do the same to the other cars..
