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Some original MGTD dash parts for sale on ebay http://www.ebay.ca/sch/4886cliff/m.html?item=302324813121&autorefresh=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562
here are some original MGTD parts for sale on ebay http://www.ebay.ca/sch/4886cliff/m.html?item=302324813121&autorefresh=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562
Also, they are about 5″ so a lot easier to see with these old eyes and “fill” the dash better too!
I have purchased Porsche 914 speedo and tach for mine. The porsche speedo runs off the left front wheel like a VW does. Thay come with a cone type plastic “glass” in them so I carefully pryed them open and put flat plastic in them. I have not installed them yet but it looks pretty staight-forward. they have high beam and turn signal indicators in them
Well, best would likely be when you convert it to fuel injection! I am collecting together the required pieces to do just that to mine. maybe even a turbo if an appropriate one turns up in my travels!
Maybe we are worrying way to much about 215-220 degrees? https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
I’m sorry! I didn’t notice until now that the original poster had posted a link to the above site!
An interesting article regarding VW oil temperature ! http://haysvwrepair.com/operating-temperatures/
a problem with dual single throat carbs is that the number 1 and number 3 cylinders run lean at idle because of the intake timing. the timing is more even if 1 and 3 are on a common throat and 2 and 4 on another. also a single two barrel is considered easier to synchronize than two individual carbs two feet apart! The crossfire manifold does allow the stock alternator and stand.
I would like to try a manifold like this one though!http://www.headflowmasters.com/the-cheater-single-carburetor-vw-manifold.html#.V5zMrhOgBPY I think it would need some kind of heat to be a good runner from cold engine to hot though!
By the way, I recommend the dual ict’s over any single carb on stock or nearly stock volkswagens. My engine never ran so good and there is no concern about getting heat to the carb like there is on centermounts. most heat tubes on Volkswagens are long since plugged with carbon anyway and those long runners are way to cold for the fuel to stay atomized till it gets to the cylinders.
I had a scat doghouse shroud on my oxyboxer with a type 4 oil cooler. I used it to get better clearance for my dual weber ict carbs. it didn’t cool nearly as well as the fi shroud does with just the type 1 oil cooler. it didn’t have the venturi ring on it though and it also had an aftermarket fan in it. I think the VW guys are right though, the engine needs the thermostat vanes in the shroud to properly direct the cooling air to the heads. my scat shroud doesn’t have the vanes. This engine is a watercooled vanagan engine that I removed the water jackets from and adapted it to accept the aircooled cylinders and heads. I used original vw 1600 cylinders and dp fuel injection heads. This gets me an aluminum block with oil filter, a stronger crankshaft, larger oil capacity, hydraulic lifters and a 5 bolt flywheel attachment rather than one gland bolt. I thought it would run cooler because of the increased oil capacity but I guess the aluminum block doesn’t dissipate heat as well as the magnesium one does. I have it running great now
I already had a large fan (aftermarket) and a doghouse shroud, so this was an upgrade to the FI shroud and a volkswagen fan.
I installed a fan housing and fan from a 1975 fuel injected engine today. this housing has the “vortex ring” or what ever they call it! It is also made a little different so doesn’t require the “hoover bit”. I highly recommend it! appears to have reduced my temps by at least 10 degrees. even at 75 miles per hour I didn’t go over 210 degrees and ran comfortably at 190 driving at 60 mph. car will go over 85 mph and feels as steady as a rock but the fence posts are going by to fast for my liking over 60-65! LOL
I have always had trouble keeping my engine temperature under 210 unless I limit my speed to 55mph.. This year I built myself an “oxyboxer” to install and got it all running thinking that with twice as much oil it surely would run cooler! No such luck! I almost wish I didn’t have a oil temperature guage! I have resigned myself to driving the car without looking at the guage as much as possible. BTW I have dual weber ict’s on mine, no flat spots and pretty acceptable warmup driving. runs real good once warmed up. The engine is 1600 dual port with aluminum bottom end from 1.9 vanagon
I took mine apart and repaired it . It was a gear slipping on a shaft. A bit of crazy glue and its been good now for 3 years. Bit of a challenge getting the thing apart though!
I ordered one from here http://www.ebay.ca/itm/251952560447?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I may have to polish it to fit!PMOSSBERG2015-06-11 15:29:18
As I wrote in a previous post, if this had happened on the highway I doubt I’d have even noticed it except for the bog it now has on acceleration. I’m sure it is busted up and puked out the exhaust now. Engine is sounding fine.
The engine ate it!! ( that’s what the knocking sound was) I’m assuming any potential damage it could do is already done so I’m going to continue running it unless something turns up.
It actually cuts off the idle air bypass circuit, restricting the air to the engine ,slowing it down to prevent run-on.
Getting back to the Carb on the air cooled VW the idle cut solenoid ( anti=dieseling) only cuts the fuel off to the low speed circuit in the carb, it has no effect on fuel percolating into the hot engine after shutdown. see these pictures
Note from Paul: I cleaned this up by making the “see these pictures” the link instead of that very long search url.
PMOSSBERG2015-06-06 11:56:33
