@edsnova
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I bought a roll of black marine carpet from Lowes or Home Depot. On part of the floor it’s laid over 1/2-inch foam padding, the rest it’s glued on with 3M Super 77. Real TDs all had black low pile carpet from the factory (not loop pile, no edge bindings) so this method is actually pretty “period correct” as well as being stupid-cheap.
Take your time dry-fitting and then do your final cuts it in-place after the glue-down.
OK everyone I’ve routed a nice pre-dinner cruise for Thursday to Grandpa’s Love Shack (same place as last year’s Friday run). Gonna step off from the hotel about 4:30 and do about an hour loop ending at the restaurant. It’ll be a short trip back to the hotel unless you want to go back the way we came.
Right now I’ve got me and Kelly, Paul and Glen, Bill A (who’ll need a ride…). Chime in if you plan to get to the Marriott Thursday afternoon.
Word is that the dune buggy guys are going to be around too.
Main The Samba forum: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/
Classified ad section: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/
You’ll have to make an account to place your ad.
Here’s a link to a running TD kit car priced at $8500.
Good luck!
Beautiful car. If the top and side curtains are in as good a shape I think 10-12 would not be an unreasonable asking price.
Hi Amanda. Sorry it’s so kludgy to post pics here.
If the kit you have is all NOS with the parts still bagged you might get a couple grand for it. With a good VW pan (if that’s what it needs) maybe $3k or more.
As for where to sell? Damned if I know. I bought an unbuilt kit off craigslist in 2017 but since then that site seems to have become worse than worthless. I have a car on facebook now and it’s attracting nothing but flippers.
The Samba might still work. Make sure you have a VW-based kit and list it there. I think it’s easier to post pics there than here too.
Good luck!
The VW column is from a 69 or so and the ignition switch and columm lock are available.
If it were me I’d put a universal key switch or maybe a true TD key switch and maybe a pushbutton (or pull!) ignition switch in that original MG center dash plate.
Your car is awesome as is! Not one person in 1000 who encounters it would guess it’s not an original.
Pretty trick!
Here’s the dash plate.
I had not realized that the original gauges themselves are actually round.
Gorgeous car Blake! The only tell is the round gauges. So hard to source those 2-year only octagonal ones!
Here ya go. Bridget’s EJ22 on a bathroom scale. That’s 260 lbs. Flywheel and clutch attached, full intake, etc, but no exhaust.
Hey Stefan, nice find! I did mine a dozen years ago and paid a lot more for an original plate in worse shape than yours. (Story at link).
Originally these were bolted to the wood dash panel with those round-head screws, with a nut and spring washer on the back of each one. The holes they fit through are squared off so you don’t need to hold them when spinning the nuts on the back. From the front they look like rivets.
My plate had previously been butchered so I had to plug the big hole in it, and the little one.
That “bodywork precluded me doing a mirror polish, but I was going for the OG look anyway…
Moss Motors carries a rattle can with the factory-correct paint. I just used a copper color I had laying around the shop, with a mist of silver over it and a clearcoat. I think Paul is right though, you could emory cloth and steel wool the thing to shiny if that’s the look you’re after. I did polish up the edge bead and that worked well.
Hey folks the hotel is set, Courtyard by Marriott West/Mechanicsburg as usual. Rooms are $150 a night the phone number is 717-766-9006. Any questions, ask Greta Bowring.
If MG Magic doesn’t come through consider buying a roll of marine carpet and cutting that to fit. That’s what I did on my car and a decade later I’m still finding new and fun uses for what’s left of the roll.
I also tried to make my own door cards but that didn’t go well so I got a real upholsterer to do them right and to match what the original TDs came with.
That was like $200, but a while ago.
Be aware: the original TD reproduction door cards from Moss Motors do not quite fit our replicas.
Good luck!
Dang! Mustang II stock steering parts NLA??
It’s not this?
From the little pics it looks like maybe your shaft is just under an inch in diameter and not the standard 3/4 inch, right? But the tube/housing is 2.5 inches i.d., correct? If so, maybe this is your huckleberry.
Bonus because “race car.”
You know I like to try things and build stuff out of junk but honestly, I would not fashion a steering part out of an old plastic barrel for a car I planned to repeatedly drive 100 miles an hour up a twisty hill. A hunk of virgin Delrin, though? That I might try.
Leave the front tires at 20 or a little below. Back ones should be good at about 25.
30 psi is too much and will make it handle poorly and ride like a rock.
Good news re mileage. Sometimes a little tuneup is all you need.
Re. “a few-gallon tank”–please say more. Most of us are running slightly modified Beetle gas tanks, which hold about 10 gallons. We can mostly do about 200-250 miles between fillups.
20-25 is normal. My Spyder with a hotted up 1914 with dual 44 Webers did about 23mpg on average. The TD, when it had the 1600 SP, did a little better than that. Ten is definitely cause for maintenance. If you’re close to five it’s leaking for sure. It’d never run that rich.
I’d start by checking everything per the book. Check and change the oil. Does it smell gassy?* Check and set the valve lash. Pull the spark plugs and have a look. Black is rich. Check the timing. When was the last time the cap, rotor and wires were replaced? Points and condenser? Get new ones. If it’s a Pertronix or similar then leave it be.
After all that’s done, look at the fuel system.
BTW, what is your fuel system on this car?
*Common problem with VWs: Needle valve in the carb sticks open and fuel drips down into the engine, through any open intake ports, into the combustion chambers and then into the crank case. This is no bueno but also easy to remedy.
