I picked up a 1/8″ x 1″ x 48″ aluminum strip at Ace (True-Value) Hardware for less than 10 bucks. I cut it to fit the width of the channel, polished the strip on my buffer, and then used rivets to fasten the forward lip of the top to the strip. Be sure to leave enough room to get the bar into channel when you attach the top lip.

I haven’t…[Read more]

Hi, Michael and Allen,

It’s a Fiberfab, Allen, 1641 V-dub powered.

Saw your pics Michael. Thank you. Looks simple enough. Much appreciated.

Thanks again.

Thanks Bill,
That’s what I’ve done, although the drawings in the manual make the straps appear to be not just looped around but looped and closed around both bows. This cannot be done without adding an extra buckle to each strap, so I thought it best to ask for help before proceeding.
I bought this unbuilt kit in 2004, did all the work on the gli…[Read more]

Hi, Junkman,I’m the original owner/builder of a 1976 Bradley GT. My Bradley now has  635,000 actual miles behind it on its original 1600 dual port VW engine.These cars are big fun, and I offer a CD with complete assembly and wiring manuals and 34 years of driving and restoration information about the car.If you want proper Bradley GT and Bradley…[Read more]

Thanks, Keith and Schu,
Thanks for the response, buds.
The kit is new and unbuilt, and I’m just starting to assemble the Fiberfab parts after completely prepping all the VW components.
Per the manual, I’ve already cut and welded the shortened neck on the tank, so that isn’t an issue. The problem is that the tank liner will not seat to the body…[Read more]

Hello,
I have a complete and unbuilt Fiberfab TD kit for VW, and have already cut and rewelded the upper front end beam as shown in the manual. This procedure drops the front end a bit, approximately one inch.
I realize that weight distribution (center of gravity) and incidence and not the same, and I’m guessing that the front end drop…[Read more]