Bill Pollard

  • That is just what the person I purchased the car from said. I think the front was from the bottom of the stadium. The rear bumper is a stock V.W. bumper. What I am modifying to use as the bumpers is a 4′ set of pickup bed rails.
    I now have the shocks installed and have taken the car out for a drive. Yes the ride is softer but it darts around a…[Read more]

  • Thank you for the information. I will go ahead and order the Monroe shocks.
    I finally buttoned everything up this afternoon and did take it around the block without and front shocks. Yes I can feel the difference in the ride and the braking with the front disc brakes.
    After I have my new wheels mounted and bumpers installed I will post…[Read more]

  • Thanks to both of you for the information.
    The Monroe p/n 31538 appears to be the correct length (I left the measurements with the parts supplier so I will need to remeasure) but it is a “gas” and not an “oil” filled shock.
    How much of a difference in the ride will this make?
    Bill

  • I have also condsiered waiting and if it does rub a hole, glue and “acorn” nut on top for decoration.
    No I have not driven the car yet. One thing I the original shocks are about 1 1/2″ shorter than what I am finding at the local supply parts supplier. They have kept my measurments and are trying to locate a workable shock. I sent J.C. Whitney an…[Read more]

  • Evening,
    Well I have the adjustable front axle beam in and it does look good.
    On question/comment: It appears the locater spots for the steering box has turned it slightly, now the large adjusting screw in the top of the steering box comes in contact with the filler panel just below the grille. Tomorrow I will go and pick up a couple of SS…[Read more]

  • Yes sir that is correct. It is on a 1973 chassis.
    I don’t guess it should but it blows my mind on how little maintenance work was performed on this car. They kept the body shinny.

  • You are correct. I have the 4 bolt pattern.
    I will be purchasing them from a local and maybe they will have information on the newer wheels. I will bring this to their attention.
    Thanks again,
    Bill

  • Thank you for your information.
    I could not believe the “so called” paint that was on the new axle. I have sanded and applied primer and two coats of paint.
    Bill

  • No wonder I lost your message I was looking in the wrong subject.
    “If the valve is located centered on the rim, they won’t work with disc brakes”. 
    I am puzzled by this statement. Are you indicating the valve stem is located between the spokes and not on the outer rim like other car wheels?
    Please let me know about the steering wheel.
    Also I p…[Read more]

  • If the valve is located centered on the rim, they won’t work with disc brakes. 
    I lost your message.
    This statement puzzles me. Are you indicating the valve stem is located between the spokes and not on the outer rim as it is on most car wheels?
    Also I had posted a message to you concering the rear suspension. When you have time please read t…[Read more]

  • Thanks for all the information.
    I spoke with the company that has done the powder coating of my engine tin and they feel sure they can give it the “brushed stainless” look. I like that option. In the mean time I have painted the chrome section red like the body color.
    I have ordered the 8 spoke EMPI chorme wheels and I am thinking of having th…[Read more]

  • That is an ideal I haven’t considered. The wood is actually four pieces to the side.
    I am currently having all new upper engine tin power coated the same color as the body.
    Did your steering wheel have, what appears to be, pearl inserts at each rivet on the face side?

  • I understan MG Magic is closed until March. I don’t find one on their price list.
    I knew rechroming was expensive and that is why I was trying to locate one to purchase.
    I haven’t tried e-bay.
    Thanks

  • Thanks for the information.
    The shocks I was sold by the local supplier are 3″ longer (collapsed) than the original shocks. I will return them to the supplier tomorrow. These are supposed to be the standard shock for the 1973 Beetle. They are thinking a shorter shock has been installed by the builder. They will try to match the size tomorrow.
    I…[Read more]

  • Now I know why the ride height did not change. The replacement shocks are longer and are bottomed out. Looks like I have no choice but to purchase the adjustable axle and purchase the shocks from J.C. Whitney.

  • Pink MG.
    If I may please ask more questions;
    I have completed the installation of new shocks, front disc brakes, and removing 4 small torsion springs from each beam. My ride height did not change. One thing that may have affected it is the shocks. I know you recommended the J.C. Whitney cheap oil filled shocks. I purchased shocks for a local…[Read more]

  • I agree with your statement. I haven’t taken the car of the jack stands yet but my gut feeling is that it will be to low.
    I hadn’t noticed that the lower beam had been cut until I started reinstalling the wide torsion leaves. That is when I noticed the pinch bolt did not align correctly like the top pinch bolt did.
    I have been trying to find a…[Read more]

  • Thanks Dale,
    I did think to contact the place where I have been purchasing my parts and they instructed me basically the same way.
    What they suggested was to use electrical tape and wrap the wide leaves about 1″ from the end. Then grind a bevel all the way around the bundle. I did and it worked.
    I haven’t set the car back on the ground yet, I’m…[Read more]

  • Afternoon,
    Help!
    Does anyone have a suggestion/hint on how to reinstall the 4 wide flat torsion sping bars into the front axle?
    I can get three bars in but I have not been able to reinsert the 4th bar.
    Mr. Bill

  • Thanks for the information.
    The clutch does not slip, in fact it surprises me how firm it grips. I will be replacing all the engine tin and it appears that I will have to pull the engine to do that. I had already planned to inspect the clutch at that time.

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