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Disc brakes/hydralic clutch

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Viewing 7 posts - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
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  • #232358
    Bill Pollard
    Participant

    @mr-bill

    I have purchased a kit to install disc brakes on the front of my 52 MG-TD replica which is built on a 1973 VW chassis. I will be leaving the drum brakes on the rear. I have also purchased new brake hose for all four wheels. One source says I can use the original master cylinder without any modifications. Another source says I will need a master cylinder for each system.

    I will also be ordering in the near future a hydraulic clutch assembly. I want to replace the clutch, brake and accelerator assembly as one piece.

    From pictures, I see some of these assemblies has a reservoir for the clutch peddle and one or two reservoirs for the brake peddle.

    Has anyone else encountered this and if so what is the soloution.

    Thanks,

    Mr. Bill

    #237240
    Dale Schumacher
    Participant

    @schu

    Bill,

    I replaced my front drums w/ disc’s this last Fall. Not to hard – make sure you bleed the system well – a pressure system works best. The change helped my car a lot. Why are you going hydraulic? The system w/ the disc’s works great. If you are on a 73 It should have a dual MC in it and should work fine – just bleed well. I think all the hydraulic systems come w/ their on M/C attached so will not require the one you have – anybody correct me here if I am wrong. Seems to me you have everything you need now to stop your car – why not try it first then go the hydraulic route if not happy? Where are you located? Let me know if you need any help,

    Dale

     

     

    #237241
    Bill Pollard
    Participant

    @mr-bill

    The reason for the hydraulic system is more for the clutch. After a full days driving my left knee hurts for about three days.

    A number of years ago I had a Karman Ghia and the same thing happened.

    I was much younger then and could “grin and bear it”. Now that I’m older and finically able to do so I want the “easy way out”!

    I also need the peddal assembly forward about three inches for more driving comfort and hopefully this will allow me to accomplished that.

    I have also ordered the adjustable front axle to do the leaf removal trick and make the ride softer.

    My kids say I am beyond help but I will take all that I can get.

    I’m located in Arlington, Texas

    Where are you located.

    #237242
    Keith True
    Participant

    @keith-true

    The hydraulic self-contained setups are made by Neal,among many others.You can position them anywhere you want fore and aft,if you use the throttle setup on them you have to keep it close to the tunnel for the cable to feed into.I have that setup in one of mine and did not use the Neal throttle.I used a stock type pedel and moved the hyd.assembly to the left.There was not enough room between the brake pedel and the tunnel for my foot.I took the front discs off my TD,with the weight of the car I was overbrakeing.There are adjustable valves to take care of that but the drums work fine without fading as it is.The only drawback to the hyd.pedel setup I found is the price of a good one.I have two cars on the road,one with the hyd.setup and one with the original VW setup.You ought to drive one of each first,the cable setup in one of mine pushes easier than the hyd.one.

    #237243
    Bill Pollard
    Participant

    @mr-bill

    I was under the impression that the hydraulic clutch would be easier to depress.

    I think my clutch cable is improperly adjusted to begin with because it does not release until the peddle is almost in the upright position.

    Is this the correct adjustment?

    Would the correct adjustment correct the amount of pressure to depress the clutch?

    Maybe I need to replace the clutch cable and return spring. Could they be binding although I feel no drag?

    #237244
    Keith True
    Participant

    @keith-true

    The cable adjustment only takes care of your free play,the distance between the throwout bearing and the clutch fingers.As the disc wears the engagement will be closer to the top.When it is really worn the engagement will be right at the top and will slip.As the pivots wear in the pressure plate they will drag,hang up,and make for a stiffer clutch. A stock VW clutch is probably one of the easiest clutches there is to push.Some people go with a heavy duty clutch thinking,that will last me forever.It might but it is stiffer too.I think you need to try a couple first before you invest many hundreds of dollars in a hyd.setup only to find you needed a $79.clutch.

    #237245
    Bill Pollard
    Participant

    @mr-bill

    Thanks for the information.

    The clutch does not slip, in fact it surprises me how firm it grips. I will be replacing all the engine tin and it appears that I will have to pull the engine to do that. I had already planned to inspect the clutch at that time.

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