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If you’re not afraid to get dirty and do some glasswork then I would say glass is a piece of angle iron to bolt it to. That way it can spread out the stress across more of the firewall and will strengthen it at the same time?
Alright, that’s good to hear. I have seen some more narrow, but they are definitely more expensive than the standard 2″.
My wheels are some cheapie aftermarket EMPI knockoff and I think the offset is a little different than a stock rim so that might be throwing it off as well as the tires being a bit low on air when I measured.I have some real EMPI rims that will be going on after I get the squareback wheels powder coated and back on. Then I’ll re-measure and see exactly what I need.Thanks for the feedback though. It’s good to know that it works.Well I don’t have any to put toward the cause but I would be happy to buy a set if they aren’t exorbitantly priced. Seems like he’ll have an easy time beating out the competition though!
I can help once I get home and get some more detailed info but for now this may help.
This is the diagram and This is the key. You will have to ignore the other wiring for now and just trace the turn signals.As for the ignition, I believe one should be ground, One should come from the battery and one go to the starter? Double check that on the diagram though.Nobody2015-07-02 11:39:37
I can tell a difference of reverberated noise between top down and top up, the package shelf definitely amplifies some noise within the passenger compartment. I have something similar to dynamat that I got at a local auto audio place. It’s almost a dense rubbery tar type texture with the foil backing. I have it in the back of my squareback and it does work pretty well.
I’m hesitant to put it in the TDr until I have finished the “restoration” and have the new paint on. It is fairly expensive and I would prefer to only do it once.Welcome! For the engine side of things pick up a John Muir Idiots Guide to keeping your VW alive. That will be useful for the engine and most of the mechanical side of things.
Well some improvement is better than none! I always hate when I am chasing a problem and replace things that don’t actually affect anything!
Ouch! Hope your hand heals quickly!!!With the float level, you may not have to adjust it, but make sure the little plastic retainer is in the right way. See this picture for how it should be. I put mine in backwards once and it caused the same issue where it would flood after shut-off.Well that’s good to hear, would have been no fun to do a rebuild all for a little brass tube eh?
You can probably pick up a new one from the Samba classifieds, shouldn’t be too hard to find I wouldn’t think.WOW! That is interesting, mine was seated pretty dang good and I would have to use pliers to pull it out whenever I cleaned the carb. How loose was yours?
Well I have a type 3 Squareback and you would probably have to run a complete t3 motor, or at least get all the t3 cooling system. The way the intake manifolds run would interfere with the doghouse shroud I think. Plenty of options though including mega-squirt ECU and various throttle bodies. Lots to read up on and I hope to convert mine to FI one of these days.
I’d try running with the new pressure for a while first. I’ve never had to mess with the float in mine.
I would agree with Kent, you don’t want to seal up the firewall as these cars do not have the air intake like the original beetle has. I would make sure you have all engine tins though and also make sure your oil cooler is not clogged (both the inside where the oil is, and the outside incase there is a rats nest or something blocking airflow.)
There should be 3 pieces of tin per side that are absolutely required for good cooling those being: the cylinder covers (As seen here), the deflection plates- which pushes the air between the cylinders through the fins underneath them (As seen here), and the heater channel tin- which directs all the hot air out behind the engine (As seen here) One of these is actually two pieces.I say go for it, just make sure to measure lots and label all the wires. I had to completely rewire my car when I got it, I based it off a used beetle harness, but it’s not too difficult of a job if you take it wire by wire. When you do it you might want to do the loom in sections (so that it can disconnect in a few places) to make it easier to install. Last tip, make sure you’ve got good ground everywhere. I tied in everything I could to the pan on mine but a dedicated ground wire running the length of the body could be nice too.
You can probably order small spools of everything you need from somewhere like McMaster and it will be cheaper than Lowes or something.Good luck and let us know how it turns out!I actually had a top made for mine locally. When I bought the car originally it had all the hardware but the original top was rotted and torn. I took it to a local small canvas shop. They did a pretty good job, rear window is a little off but unless you’re looking you’d never know. Cost about $300 so I’m happy with it.
Spend a little time checking out local places and see what kind of work they have done before.Glad to hear you’re having fun, that’s what these cars are for after all right? 😀I’ve got a Weber progressive on my 1600DP and I’m not getting any pinging. I got mine from ACN (Aircooled.net) and had them jet it for me based on my altitude. My main circuit is leaner than the secondary. The reason for this is smooth cruising on the idle circuit but more power on the secondary. ACN has some good tech articles if you want to check them out. http://www.aircooled.net/vw-technical-articles/
You might also shoot John over there an email as he has dealt with a fair amount of these carbs and he was very helpful when I had questions.Welcome!
That is indeed an interesting engine you have, there is no way to tell if it is a 1600cc or not without a teardown but the top half definitely has some modifications. I would love to know what that carb intake is and why there seems to be an extra oil cooler.Yes you need the ground strap, otherwise the current will have to find its way through things like throttle cables and various things not made to carry power.
I think Paul’s plan is brilliant. Spike is right, that seems to be how it goes whenever I can’t find something and buy a new one.
Looking Good!
What is that crazy contraption on the side of the case where the oil pressure sender goes?And no oil filter on mine either, they seem to be used mainly on high performance engines.I think on my TDr everything is 5mm hose since it is carbureted, I used the equivalent fractional size though.
I believe 7mm was used on fuel injected VWs, at least for type 3s.Is your fuel pump mechanical or electric? The mechanical ones should be same size inlet and outlet.And I felt the same way as you when I first got mine, I was hesitant to do anything. But now I will do almost anything to make it how I like it and I know just about every inch of the car from doing one thing or another. (I’m also a bit less hesitant because I haven’t gotten it repainted yet so I know that if I mess up anything I can fix it before paint!)Well my FF TDr doesn’t have any fender braces and I haven’t ever had a problem with flexing.
Gotta check them out now!