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Too many attorneys without a doubt, I am an architectural metal fabricator and I cannot get insurance to work on condominium projects, too many latent defect suits that magically happen three months before the ten year limit.
Looking for some help,
So I have a pinto based kit, but a mustang II donor, right off I noticed the transmission mount cross member is completely different, so I go out and buy a used pinto one. Along the way I decide to change over to a 5 speed. Now I have to figure out where the transmission rear mount is supposed to set the rear height of the transmission. I would just go ahead and mount the 4sp transmission from the mustang II but it had a different mount than the pinto. I can fabricate whatever I need, just need to get a sense of the distance of the center line of the transmission output to the bottom of the chassis?Thanks, T. J.Almost done with the front end, just need to make new strut rod brackets, Mustang II strut rods are a little different than pinto ones. Next up, rear end.
Just an update, stripped all the old bushings and ball joints out of the front suspension parts and off they went to the powder coater, all new parts are here, bought urethane bushings. Did buy the rear end from Florida, found a set of good used 4.11 gears and all is apart waiting for cleaning. After I get the front end back together I will start on the mounting of the rear end housing. Found some good used 65 series tires to get started on the roller. My plan is to put the whole thing together and get it on wheels, making sure I am done welding on the chassis, then pull it back apart and send the chassis and rear end housing and any other suspension bits off to the powder coater.
Have a line on a 5sp from an SVO mustang, has the .79 OD fifth gear of the normal 2.3 engined cars but shorter 1 through 4, should work well with the extra oomphhh I am planning for the motor and the 4.11 gears.All for now, will post pictures as the roller gets built.T. J.Well I bought the hood, probably be a while before I find out if it will work, will post my findings later.
That listing is what started the wheels spinning and I am 1/2 hour from Napa, maybe get them and figure it out as I build the car.
Bill, are you getting torsional flex or rotational? Should I bethinking of some bracing now while it is a bare frame?Thanks for your thoughts.T. J.May be more important in the VW based cars, but the fiberfab chassis I am working with is grossly over built, I have even considered chopping it up and lightening many of the tubes. Don’t think it is an issue.
Thanks, T. J.Completely forgot about the original center strut. Did the bracket work on the larger 8″ rear or did you weld brackets onto the housing?
Thanks, T. J.So I go this route if I can’t find an ’84 – ’86 SVO T5 and bell housing that already has the cable based clutch? Sounds a lot easier to find, thanks.
One more question, why the three link instead of 4 link parallel arms? I am building a lotus 7 with my son and that is the route we went, along with most everyone else. I have read it is easier to get the lengths right, that the three link can be a bit trickier to get right? You thoughts??This is the tag that came with my recently acquired unused kit, as well as original receipt from 1986
Also new here, recently acquired a ford based fiber fab kit that has never been assembled, making a few changes based on recommendations here and finding parts. Back in the day when these kits were built Pinto’s were plentiful, now they are a cult collector car and parts are hard to come by and getting expensive. Doing my best to piece things together.
Good group here, I lurk everyday but say little, you’ll enjoy.T. J.
