[Jerry Van Avery]

Looks like some great ride’n weather up there. Still a bit warm during the day when you have to stop at a light. Had the car in a couple of parades the last two weeks and it does get hot at about 2 MPH.

We had a cool snap last week and it was only in the high 80’s. Told Moma this was the weather the little car was made for, about 50 mph on a back road just enjoying the ride and the view.    

[Jerry Van Avery]

First fillup with my car. After I installed new gas tank and adjusted carb.   l got about 26 MPG in the high 90’s here in Texas.  

[Jerry Van Avery]

This would have been a great evening to go for a ride. Hope the Misquitos were not to bad or at least you could out run them.

Spent the afternoon outside so have to admit we spent the evening inside suckin up the AC.

[Jerry Van Avery]

I also send a note to Classic Instruments asking for help from them as to which sender to purchase. Like you stated I need to get the correct ohms sender to match the gauge. I was hoping someone from the site would happen to know which one I would need.

Thanks for the help.

I replaced the hood piano hinge with a couple 3″ SS hinges. I like the look better and it feels better since I have to open it each time I gas the car up. Still have to put a deck under the hood and replace the carpeting throughout but its coming along, and its running nicely.

[Jerry Van Avery]

Recieved the new tank yeasterday and had a welder firend shorten the neck and install a new vent connection. Installed the tank this morning. Made a blank plate for the fuel float and sender unit. Need to get with Classic Instruments as to which one to get so I have the correct Ohms for the guage.  I have the Classic Instruments fuel gauge on the dash and would like to use it.

Does anyone know which model sender to purchase?

Thanks for the suggestion to use self tapping screws on the hold downs it works great. I washed out the new tank several times before installation and installed additional fuel filter to catch anything I missed cleaning it.

[Jerry Van Avery]

I did a little jury rigging on the air intake filter today.  The original system used a piece of flexible heater  hose to the area in front of the engine to the right looking from the back of the vehicle.  There was a pvc elbow through a hole and a wire mesh tube hanging down from that. Looks like there once was some type of filter over that wire mesh tube at one time. 

Anyway I used a section of the heater hose that was still good and cut a piece of 1 ½ ??? pvc pipe and put a small nipple into the  side  of that section of pipe.  I had a piece of ???breathable foam rubber??? that I put inside the wire mesh tube with a piece of hardware cloth at the top end to retain the foam. Then purchased some tubing /hose and a couple of radiator clamps and assembled the system and reconnected the oil crankcase vent into the intake. Much better than being open to the atmosphere.

I do have a couple more questions about access on the BCW car. The manuals in the system don???t cover the BCW cars.

1.       Is there a way to access the sides of the motor ? I found one of the plug wires off and replaced it by feel.  Don???t know as I could replace the plugs.  Do the panels that make up the false tank come off some how easily?

2.       My new fuel tank should be here shortly and in looking over the job I noticed that three of the 4 bolts that hold the four clamps at the ends of the gas tank have unscrewed and fell into the compartment below. There does not seem to be any access into that area. Is my best option to use toggle bolts?

[Jerry Van Avery]

I just joined a couple of weeks ago. Just bought BCW 52 MGTD  off Ebay a couple weeks ago up in PA. I now how her relocated to Texas and got her licenced today. Still cleaning her up and have a new gas tank on order. Fixed the high beams and licence plate lights last night. 

 Anyway, I’m 61 and currently have three 80’s motorcycles in the barn that I bought not running and have then all running now. Figured bumping up to four wheels with no top could be fun.

This is a great site and I’ve been reading the old posts trying to gain ideas, and helpful hints.  

[Jerry Van Avery]

Thanks Ed,

I’ll have to check that out on the sending unit I purchased one with the tank, might need to return it.

Changed the oil today and adjusted the choke and put some screws and washers in the convertable top this afternoon, the original staples holding the top to the board that attaches to the windshield had all pulled out. Seems to run pretty good now. Had to tighten the set screws on the wipers.

Raining here today so still can not take her out for a ride. Need to get safety inspection done so I can get registered and licenced.

The paint is shining up nicely with some polishing compound.

I need to get a intake air filter for her. What do you use? Will a 5 1/2 ” diameter paper filter fit? Looks pretty tight to the “trunk lid”.  

 Thanks again

[Jerry Van Avery]

Edsnova, Thanks again for the information and the typing out the instructions so they were readable.

After looking thing over I believe I’m going to purchase the 1967 tank since the filler nozzle is already in the correct place, it will need to be shortened but will be in the righht place and the tanks look to be the saame except the nozzle placement. the dimensions are 27.75 x 15 x 11.25 and 9.2 gal for both tanks. I found the best deal with Jbugs out of Califorina.

I’m also buying the sending unit, that gasket, the bottom nozzle and the internal filter and gas cap.

I agree that I might as well by new rather than fight with the crud and rust in the bottom of an old tank.

Wish me luck.

[Jerry Van Avery]

Thanks guy’s for the warn welcome.

Ed, I was about to order an older model tank 1961-67 that would have the filler nozzle on the passengers side near the firewall and figured I would have to shorten he nozzle. That would give me the connection for the gas cap too. I’ll hold off till you find the better information. Thanks.

Are the bottoms of the two tanks different? If they are the same it would be a lot less cutting and welding.

BTW, it looks like my carb is a weber W224051 and there doesn’t seem to be a rebiuld kit out there. The choke doesn’t seem to be acting correctly so I’ going to play around with it some. Also, if your has the same carb I have another question. There is an additional “plundger rod?” might be an accelerator pump that goes into the top of the float chamber. It hard to move and should be activated from a rod with a spring that is connected to the throttle. Right behind the choke. If you have the same thing does your move easily?

Thanks again for the help.  

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