Home › Forums › MGTD Kit Cars › VW Based Kits › Bridget wont start
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July 26, 2010 at 8:44 pm #233061
Took Bridget to work today. No problems either going in or coming home (though the brakes are starting to feel hinkey again. will def have to do all four corners soon).
Anyway, I gets her home, parks her in the gay-rage, get in the house and notice that, though Karen grocery-shopped today, she forgot to get milk. Too bad it’s 80 degrees outside and sunny. So I eat some dinner, then it’s back out to the garage to take Bridget on a grocery run. I turn the key and . . .
click.
Two more tries, too more clicks. No crank. (radio pops on & idiot lights glow, the usual).
She’s been sitting for maybe an hour, after a nice breezy 20-mile commute, no traffic to speak of.
My first guess is starter but wonder if anyone has any better ideas.
July 26, 2010 at 10:36 pm #241835Ed, Check all the connections, begining at the battery.It may be getting a good enough connection to work the small stuff but not the starter. If all connections are good,disconnect the small wire on the starter solonoid and see if you have current to the end of the wire with the switch in the ”start” position.If you do ,it’s probably the starter or the solonoid. Autozone, AdvanceAuto or NAPA can test it for free. If you are not getting fire to the starter with the switch in start position ,the switch or the wire are likely to be the problem. I almost forgot the most basic test. Turn on the head lights and then try to start it. Notice the lights, see if they dim or go out completely, the battery may be bad.. I should have put this at the top of the things to try. Larry Murphy40385.9503703704
July 27, 2010 at 10:36 am #241836Thanks, Larry. I’ll try the headlight test, and maybe put the boat battery in her and try that.
So I reached in this morning and turned the key and she started right up as usual.
This makes me suspect a heat sink effect on the starter/solenoid. Used to get that with the Chevy II. The headers ran right past and sort of curved around the starter. For about a year I kept a large screwdriver in the center console and when she wouldn’t turn over I’d use it to jump the terminals.
Back then the most common place for this to happen was at City Hall, where (in those innocent days) there was a parking spot reserved for “Press.” I’d park the blue beast there and cover the city council meeting and then walk out in the summer dusk an hour later and be obliged to pop open the hood and deploy the screwdriver on my aluminum-finned small block, which would duly roar to life, usually just about the time that the deputy mayor would be walking by on his way to the bar.
He’d nod. I’d smile and blip the throttle with my left hand.
Eventually melted the tip off the screwdriver, but the technique worked until I got up the gumption to replace the starter, which was a PITA to remove with all those header tubes in the way.
I know this could be completely different. Will check the battery and connections first.
July 27, 2010 at 12:22 pm #241837Starter solenoid “heat soak” can be solved very easily. It’s the solenoid, not the starter motor that is the problem.
I did it on the GM style mini-starter on my Mustang roadracer and will also do it on my 4.3L Chevy V6’s mini-starter in my ’40 Ford streetrod.
It’s an old Hot Rodder/Racer trick of using a remote FoMoCo style solenoid. I use a Standard Motor Products #SS-588 solenoid, about $19 from Rock Auto. You end up with only the battery cable going to the starter…like an old Ford style starter. Check out this link:
http://www.maliburacing.com/starter_solenoid.html
Pink MG40386.5167361111
July 27, 2010 at 1:12 pm #241838Mark, Thanks for the solution and the diagram to show how to hook it up. If I understand correctly, this does not solve the problem of a faulty solenoid ,but does make sure that enough voltage is reaching the unit to insure that it is able work properly.
Ed ,Becky was very experienced with the ”screwdriver start method ” when a 69 Camaro was our family car back in the 80’s .She always insisted on a very long one with a big insulated handle.
July 27, 2010 at 3:19 pm #241839Exactly…and the FoMoCo draws much less current too.
July 27, 2010 at 4:39 pm #241840Cool stuff, Mark. Someone should’ve told me that in 1992.
In Bridget’s case I might do just as well to replace the solenoid with a stock bug piece, or the starter or starter/solenoid if they’re together (don’t even know yet). She’s all pretty stock and doesn’t seem to be running especially hot; I think the part might just be due for replacement.
I’ll try to check in the next few days and report back.
August 19, 2010 at 2:31 pm #241841Most solenoids/relays can be fixed by taking them apart and flipping the contact disc over and turning the bolts that are the contacts 180 degrees. I did one on my garden tractor last sunday!
Chuck
August 22, 2010 at 11:28 am #241842I like that one, Chuck.
I’ve still not done anything about this problem. It’s still extremely intermittent, and so I hedge by parking facing down hill.
Nice car show cancelled today ’cause of rain. Maybe I’ll jack her up and have a look at the starter & solenoid.
Thanks all for the sage advice. Wouldn’t have thought of the Ford (“better idea”) or the solenoid rebuild.
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