- This topic has 8 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 12 years, 2 months ago by
.
-
Posts
-
Well after almost 4 years of putting up with a oil leak (aka high crank case pressure) I may have resolved it. By brother-in -law Don came for a vist with a set of leak down gauges. We spent most of Sat afternoon testin and tinkering. Results: all 4 cyl has 120 to 125 lbs compression
, all 4 cyl only had about 12 % leak .. So far so good. So why is the pvc blowing out and oil vapors and oil going all over the engine conpartment? I ask???? Don is a pretty good mechanic on bikes and just about everything he touches. He reached down and pulled the pvc hose out from the intake, and found absoutly no vaccumn when he put his finger over it. After removing the carb we found the entire port area was totaly caked and baked with carbon, hard as a rock 
. Spent about 2 brown bottles 
time soaking and scraping the crud out, 2 new gaskets and shes purring like a kitten. Too soon to tell if thats all the oil leak but was or I may have to replace a few seals again (ft cam seal for one) that may have been damaged. But for now NO rebuild this winter, 
YEAAA! Glad it worked out without an engine teardown for you.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackNICE! Carbon! That happens.
Wonder if you got a little in your combustion chambers too? It might do to get a half pint of windshield washer fluid in a cup and a very thin hose attached to the bottom of your carb (the disty advance hose works good). Rev her a little and let the motor sip that watery stuff, little by little, for a few minutes. That should break up any carbon on the piston tops or around the valves. You can usually see some of it spit out the tail pipe.
(This might lower your static compression just a bit too, but should run better anyway).
I wouldn’t use washer fluid. Plenty of dedicated chemicals for top end cleaning.
The Ford has an oil seperator at the block at the end of that PCV hose.Make sure that’s clean too. It’s a bear to get at, though.Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Used faucet water on the old chebby deux when she developed a knock that one time after I’d banged through the gears at 5000 rpm–course this was AFTER we’d dropped the pan and pulled the main & rod caps.
Turned out the old motor–which I’d pulled from a wagon that’d done five-six year’s duty as a keg & liquor delivery vehicle–had some carbon building up, which my throttle-based enthusiasm had shaken loose.
Cleared it out with just water. I figgured a touch of alcohol couldn’t be bad.
But right: this was long ago & far away.
Transmission fluild also works well.Hold at a higher RPM and pour slowly down the carb.Best recomended on an old back country road as it will produce alot of smoke.
I also recall reading where the 55 chevys burned oil off the transport truck,the fix was pouring boraxo cleanser down the carb while running at a higher rpm.This provided enough abrasive to sand and reseat the rings and no more oil burning.We’re showing our age here guys.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"I have no idea what all you old guys are talking about!
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Wow ,BaBo fix , that was a fix to keep your older car running from popular machanics ,,,,,, early 1950’S, to reseat rings ,a spoon at a time in the carburetor at fast idle ,and it WORKS on all enginens BaBo has ,or had no bleach . just a verry fine grit with borax . I like being “old” Dan Dan R2012-09-19 09:31:08
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.