Are you positive that it is rust? Old gas with ethanol will deteriorate and a yellow coloured sand like precipitate will be deposited in the bottom of the tank and clog up fuel lines, pumps and the carb. You have to physically remove the crap, blow out or replace the lines, pump and carb. If you are not sure it is rust, test with magnet. The recommendation before replacing the tank is to remove tank, drain fuel, flush with muriatic acid, wash with gas to neutralize the acid, air dry then coat interior of tank with POR. Make sure port to fuel line or shut off value is not plugged with POR
Let us know how you make out as I expect others will offer their recommendations for alternative actions if more info is forthcoming

As you have the tank out of the vehicle you will have to assess how extensive the rust is This can be done with a scope inspection camera, light and mirror, tapping outside of the tank where the rust is or poking the tank with an awl to determine extent of rust and whether integrity of tank has been compromised. Have heard of some who have tried fibreglassing tank from exterior cutting out rust and welding in patch. Welding should only be done by those with experience as gas fumes and heat from welding can create a dangerous situation. If going the fibreglass route you still have to try and arrest the rusting in the tank (muriatic acid/POR). Recommend you compare cost of replacement tank (MGmagic) and cost of repair to make a decision

I removed my leaking tank and still need to get a new tank. Been using a portable plastic tank, a little 3 gallon size, for a year now. 50 mile range without worry and haven’t actually been motivated enough yet to get the new metal tank.

MG Magic has the correct tank and instructions for cutting and welding the filler neck so it will fit under the hood. See their page:

http://www.mgmagicclassicmotorparts.com/gas-tank-vw-mg-td-replacement/

Must be sure you get the correct tank if you buy someplace else, there are larger tanks and vary by year too. I can’t say if nothing but one type will fit or not but apparently a larger (10+ gallon?) tank wouldn’t. I’m just going to get the one like MG Magic sells.

The air vent tube can’t be used for VW version. Need vented cap, which you probably have already.

I believe a new tank will need to be cleaned before using them or welding too, something about rust preventative in them I think.

Bob

If you are able to clean the tank and it is serviceable, I recommend you seal it with something like POR-15 Fuel Tank Sealer.

I agree with Kall.  Edsnova taught me how to do this.  The hardest part is finding a capillary  tube, and the scariest part was drilling a tiny hole for it into the gas tank neck.  Once that was done, it was just a matter of gluing the tube into the neck with the right kind of epoxy and routing the capillary tube.  I looped mine up over a little piece of wood and then down through the “hood” to a place near the front wheel.  Never smell gas, and don’t get that “whoosh” when I open the tank any more.  With the vent, I also don’t starve my carburetor any more.  Thank you, Ed!

That’s the type with the filler neck on that shallow end  angled corner I was talking about before.

You would either need to find a way to connect a filler hose leading out to somewhere, or remove that neck and move it to the opposite corner.

To have it the same way ours are (passenger/windshield corner) means welding a plate over where that low forward facing neck is (assuming not installing backward) and cutting a hole for it into the deep corner.

BTW, can’t recall ordering from Parts Geek before.

• This reply was modified 8 years, 1 month ago by Bob.
• This reply was modified 8 years, 1 month ago by Bob.

They all want the earlier tank because the filler neck in the later one is laid down to accommodate the external fuel door. You can use that one in a TDr but you’ll have to relocate the filler neck as described. If you need an new tank it’s easier to get the older style tank & shorten the neck. Sometimes you get lucky and don’t even need to mess with it.

Filler is located on the passenger side of tank

Not necessarily, depends on which way the hood (bonnet) opens. On mine the hinges are on the driver side of hood so access to the filler on the passenger side makes sense

wannabtd wrote:

So with my tank filler being on the driver side front what would be the downfall of the tank from parts geek, Part Number: 17321-05442102. Thanks.

Probably would require a hose put onto the horizontal inlet tube that can reach above the top of the tank, 90 degree elbow for example, and a way to put a cap on that. Likewise for the smaller tube opening next to it, or plug it somehow. So getting it above the top of the tank and positioned solidly might be the most difficult thing to do.

I’m only guessing. You really need the advice of someone with that particular tank setup or has done it before.