My son finished the gas tank!  We’ve already had an issue with the fuel supply tube breaking but we have a solution that will keep him from having to open it back up.  Frustrating but fixable.I’m not quite ready to anchor it in place but I did a test fit and it’s perfect.Here are the pics.  What a talented kid.

On a side note all it takes is a pin hole on the pump diaphram,or a crack from dry age.CHECK THE OIL what fuel isn’t going to the carbs has got to be going some place.

OK thanks. The reason I asked was I had a VW bug in Germany in the army with a sunroof and a rainbow painted across the back bonnett. It was a great vehicle and got about 20 miles a gallon, but it was pretty much pedal to the metal at all times. Only thing I could pass on the Autobahn was Semi-trucks, so I stayed off it.    And if you all feel…[Read more]

Everything was moving freely.And not the same as a fluid, but air flowed freely through the gas lines into the carbs.

Dry bowls can be due to stuck or dirty needle valves not letting any gas get into the carbs.Have you checked the floats and needle valves in the carbs for smooth operation? Like the valves aren’t stuck shut prohibiting gas from flowing?If you take off the tops of the carbs and touch the needle valves, they should move up (closed) with no…[Read more]

Paul, You want to borrow $15? 🙂

Haven’t done a gravity feed.

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Before you go and start messing with the fuel pump and rod length, have you cranked over the engine and seen or measured just how much your existing pump puts out? (Pump it out through a longer line into a bucket or fuel can).Or you can even try a gravity feed from a fuel can into the carbs and see if it will run. If the carbs are clean and…[Read more]

Allen…NOTHING.

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Ah memories.  Keep it up.  You’ll probably finish before I do

Thanks! Changing jobs and I have the next two days off. I’ll work her both those days. After Tuesday night I’ll need the floor pans, the seals that go between the trailing arms and front beams, front and rear shocks and one brake backing plate. One severely corroded.

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Keep on going Paul. You’ll lick it yet. What’s left after you get her running?

Yeah, I had read Rob & Dave’s page too. This is the first time I have ever had even a slight doubt about something on their page. The only replacement rods I have seen are 4″  and 4 1/4″.And this paragraph has an obvious error:

Note:
The fuel pump used with an alternator uses a 4″ pushrod. The fuel
pump used with a generator used a 4-1/2″…

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Productive weekend! Nice work Allen.

Well my chassis mod is 85% complete and the front beam teardown, cleaning, mod, and reassembly is about 50%. Tomorrow finish the ball joints and start reassembly. Trailing arms going to shop to be pressed out and new one pressed in. Wahoo!

Ed,  I responded on your Bridget blog page.  

Lucky girl!!  Nice ride!!

I had a set in hand a few months back, along with two decent, one dodgy and one really bad spline hub adaptors. I think I’d paid a little more than $100 for the whole kit, delivered; sent them all back to the seller.

Thanks Ed,  Don’t know why the coarse thread 2 eared spinners did not show up when I searched.  I agree with used being ok.  I’ll just have to be more patient.  $50 each is a bit pricey for me although I do like to know that they can still be purchased new.