Crapola!      Or should I say “Shazbot”!newkitman40771.5746412037

Well cared-for front engine car, 4 speed… $6500 doesn’t look crazy to me. Little more than my budget, but I’m cheap. Someone ought to grab that car. Start with an offer of $4800 and see if he’ll come down to $5500. Just my 2 cents.

Unfortunately, Rabbit Wheels won’t work.
Rabbit five bolt wheel:
http://www.originalwheels.com/volkswagen-wheels/images/volks wagen-rabbit-wheels-69893-b.jpg
VW Type 1 Five Bolt – they don’t call them “wide-fives” for nothing:
http://www2.cip1.com/v/vspfiles/photos/ACC-C10-6626-2.jpg
 

BDriver, I think the camera angle and position don’t allow a true view. It looks like the camera was too close for some of the shots and there is a wide angle deviation that makes the front end look wider.

VW Rabbit stock wheels are 15 inch and have round holes. Just don’t know the setback on those.Also will have to pay attention to the spacing of the lugs or lug holes. May or may not fit the beetle 5-bolt wheel. BUT…this could be an option.  

Shipping may make the Brazil hubcaps seem pricey until you look at the cost of wire wheels, or even wire hubcaps. Add an MG logo in the hubcap center and the VW wheels that came with the donor car become faux MG steel wheels. Retro Cool. Yup. The cooling holes really are oval. That they appear round from the right angle on the originals is an opti…[Read more]

Why is the front end so wide? Is it caused by the offset in the wheels? The rears are tight under the fenders too.

I think that same one was offered on Craigs List a month ago. It looks familiar.

The no-weld approach Mike refers to is the one at the “Fiberfab”link in my post a couple notes up.Apparently Fiberfab believed in this approach. So I guess it works. But I’ve never seen one done this way in “real life.”

dkbryant, welcome to the forum. On the download manuals link to the left look under fiberfab migi no weld peddle cluster. I think this is close to what you are looking for.

I am a new owner of a ’52 FiberFab Kit on a VW Chassis.
I found this web site because I too need to move the
pedals – a lot closer!! to the seat. I need to move the
pedals at least 12″ closer, but I don’t think I want to
go into cutting all of those holes in the tunnel. I am
thinking of finding another pedal assembly and mounting
it to the floor…[Read more]

An engine will generate more heat at a given RPM if you put a greater load on it. You get a greater load when you go faster, as with an overdrive transmission. That’s why there is a relationship between RPM and transaxle and cooling.So while it’s true that the engine doesn’t know how fast it’s going, it’s not true that your potential speed is…[Read more]

For what it’s worth, I mostly run mine by the tachometer. I usually run it
between 2000 -4000 rpm. I am also going 60 mph in 4th at 3000 rpm.

I checked my sending unit by putting it in boiling water for a 210?F reading.
The operating temp. lowered considerably when I got rid of the “bag of
snakes” exhaust muffler. It was trapping heat in the engine compartment. I
replaced it with a single pipe “GT” style ( EMPI # 3487 ) that allowed air to
exit out between the bumper/rear deck and the…[Read more]

I learn every day! Thanks guys!

I stopped at my VW mechanic’s shop for his thoughts on this shifting question. He’s been working on Beetles and Porsches for nearly 40 years, and says that even here in Houston (where we’re heading into our 15th straight day of triple-digit highs) he’s never recommended keeping up the revs to cool the engine. Instead, he suggests adding an oil…[Read more]

I was looking online for new rubber for my MP Lafer and came across this site, which sells VW parts made in Brazil. Apparently they still stock the wheel covers with blank centers @ 4 for $98.82 (plus shipping):

http://www.vwantigo.net/shop/product_info.php?cPath=62&p roducts_id=1664
There’s a currency selection button on the left of the site. Be…[Read more]

Tried the rear adjusters. Seems like they were Ok to start with. Drove a bit and didn’t quite get the stickiness I had, but don’t feel like it’s fixed. Try the front adjusters later…

Hi Mark,I built and own a Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess. This is Classic Roadsters’ approach (starts on page 16 of the PDF). It worked for me!This is Fiberfab’s approach.This is CMC’s approach (starts on [page 11 of the PDF).All of the above are links to copies of the manuals stored in tdreplica.com’s “Download Manuals”…[Read more]

you buggin’!