It looks like the spare tire holder was hacked/damaged by someone. On mine, the spare tire holder fits into the opening of the engine cover from the inside and then bolted in place. And like Roy said “Don’t be afraid of fiberglass work.  It isn’t as hard as most would have you believe.”

I experienced similar idle problems with my 70 bug TD.  I had not yet found this site but did get good advice through Samba.  Before connecting your nice new carb to the fuel system you really need to be sure the entire system is clean.  I did two carb cleanings and spent hours reaming and flushing the tank to engine compartment line before it pa…[Read more]

Hey Toller, I think that Leo has a Ford font engined TDr.  He’s not worried about the same things that you and I are wrt cooling an air-cooled.

With what I see in the pics posted, it looks like a bit of fiberglass work to clean it up and he will be ok.  Don’t be afraid of fiberglass work.  It isn’t as hard as most would have you believe.  Ed (ed…[Read more]

Hey Toller, I think that Leo has a Ford font engined TDr.  He’s not worried about the same things that you and I are wrt cooling an air-cooled.

With what I see in the pics posted, it looks like a bit of fiberglass work and rattle cans of spray paint to clean it up and he will be looking good.

Don’t be afraid of fiberglass work.  It isn’t as h…[Read more]

My FF MiGi had holes in the engine cover like yours but had a simulated spare tire with cover as opposed to a functional tire holder like yours. I made a spare tire holder __/—-__ with this profile. I found the engine, at least the top end ran cooler. The later VW Bugs had vents in their engine covers to draw air in and some guys would not latch…[Read more]

It is made to be removable but it’s been years since I installed mine.

It’s been awhile so I thought I’d update my thread here.  I see that the photobucket fiasco has robbed this site of many pictures as well.

Zella will be getting a new carb once she is nestled into her new home.  I’m in process of building a 48×64 shop right now.  If interested you can follow along on the Garage Journal forum at the link be…[Read more]

The original MustangII front suspension used a strut rod that attached rearwards of the lower control arm and attached with rubber bushings to an angled bracket that bolted to the frame. There are companies that offer the lower arm as strutless and as such have no provision for the strut. Make sure the arms you’re using are strutless before you…[Read more]

There’s a shot of the whole system about halfway down this blog post. Basically it runs from passenger side port, forward and then under the engine/trans split, picks up the driver’s side and dumps straight into the cat (which my exhaust guy tried to talk me out of installing). From there it bends back down along the passenger side valve cover and…[Read more]

Ed, do you have any photos of your Subaru exhaust? I would like to know how you routed it and plumbed it from the heads through the muffler and then out the back. I know you have a handy dandy vehicle lift so can you get some photos from the bottom side too? I am finally retiring at the end of the year so will have time to work on all my projects.…[Read more]

I put the shieldy sticky stuff on the bottom of the splash pan. I don’t think the stuff I bought is made to stick to exhaust pipes.

Key thing is not to let the exhaust pipe touch anything fiberglass. If it does, bend it down. If you can’t bend it with your “attitude adjustment bar” then break out the heat hammer (i.e. acetylene helper) or visit…[Read more]

Decided to try the product recommended by Ed, found another product that seems to offer the same features as heat shield. Should have it early next week so will let all know how it works out https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00029KC2K/ref=pe_3034960_233709270_TE_item