Thank you for the information. That is helpful. I will seriously reconsider.

The knock-off adaptors are easy to get, and it’s not much to have a machine shop drill and tap the 4 x 4.5-inch pattern. I used bolts screwed from the inside of the drums and rotors to mount. All straightforward.

But the wheels widen the track by an inch at every corner.

On the front you can fix that with a narrowed beam. In back you’re…[Read more]

Yet WHY? A member in my kit car club did it with little problem. What issues did you have?

Having done it, I advise against real knock-off MWS wire wheels.

Procedure:

Step 1: Leave the car over night somewhere safe where you can work on it without moving it. You want the engine cold for this.

Step 2: pull the valve covers and check the tappets. Use the Bentley Manual procedure or the one found in Muir’s “Compleat Idiot” illustrated manual. Be careful to note whether your pushrods are the stock…[Read more]

We didn’t win a prize this time, yet we had a good time.
I discovered the night before the show, that the rim if my hubcaps is metal, yet the “wire” spikes are a chrome poly.
Apparently the company that made the metal-spike hub caps that rusted, is out of business. Maybe I will start saving up for real wire wheels.

Ifled is very common – just kidding. Its a bad typo for idle.

folowing…but what is iflec (iflecis?) set too low?

Thanks for the positive information.
Ive only driven the car about 18-20 miles for far. I think the iflecis set too low. The engine stalls when I down shift at stop lights.

I have been running a PerTronix electrotonic ignition and associated coil in my 1776 since I build it about 20 years ago.  Happy with performance, no regrets. Still carry set of ordinal points in car as backup.

Thanks Paul. Brine was a bit confusing but I assumed you meant en-gine.

What about just removing the crankshaft pulley?

thank you for the information very helpful

The port most people use is on top of the engine just behind the distributor. There should already be a sender switch screwed in there with a wire coming off it. That’s your oil pressure (green) light. To get a proper gauge you T that port. Screw the idiot light sender into one hole and the gauge sender (either oil temp or oil pressure) into the…[Read more]