I will take them. I d9 not have any for my car and it would save me a lot in restoring her. Do you have a paypal account. I can send you the money that way if you do. Let me know.

Thanks again, all the advice is really appreciated. I ran the wires last weekend but left the grounds for last.For the wires, I bought a VW wire kit and made changes as needed. All of the wires are color coded and the kit came with a detailed wire map. The big change I made was the fuse pannel. The kit came with a pre wired 6 fuse power…[Read more]

He just replied he wishes he had known that a few months ago.

I had asked to look at parts today but seller responded he had a deal in the works. suggested he tell the buyer about http://www.tdreplica.com noticed the revised listing altered to ship to U.S. bet its MGmagic.

Stephen…you can send me the PDF of the manual. pmossberg at verizon.net

The Kitplanes article recommends separate grounds. One for the starter/generator and another for the electronics and lights. You might even run separate grounds for the last two if you run a lot of gizmos or big lights. That keeps voltage spikes and errant signals from disturbing the rest of the electrical system.

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As for purpose built, don’t know, I don’t have that frame, just the photo to drool over.Stephen

Four wheel disk brakes and coil springs all around. Put sway bars on it and you can out Porsche the Speedster replicas with that chassis. That is pretty.

I also agree about running dedicated ground wires.Just as background, in older cars, which were mostly metal, grounding components to the nearest bolt worked fine. Today’s cars, with so many body parts and fasteners made of plastic, require actual ground wires to insure continuity. Even more important, all the electronic components, including…[Read more]

I’m attaching some marketing photos (postcards) that I have not seen elsewhere. Included is the photo of the raw steel frame, of which my Roadster does not have. Mine is definitely the VW frame. I have not seen these photos elsewhere, perhaps they are of some value.I also have a general maintenance manual (PDF) that I cannot upload here (size…[Read more]

Richard –

jebarry2014-06-11 13:31:25

Steven, My London Roadster has the steel tube chassis and is as solid as the day it was built. No rust and can be easily jacked up using the frame. Coil over shocks in the front and coil springs in the rear. From what I hear is that they didn’t make that many with the steel frames. They only made them from 1980 – 1988. Seems like most of the…[Read more]

Roy that’s about how I felt about it.  It’s a shame body age has caught up with me, I’m still in my 20’s or 30’s in my head.  Someone got a great deal, I hope they follow through and do something with the molds.  They will more than get their money back on the parts. 

If I was 25 yrs younger, I would have, but alas……..

Did anyone here purchase the parts from this fellow. It was sold at just over $1,600.

Its fun hunting parts. I maybe should have passed on the MG but it kinda just followed me home. It will be a fun build.

You’re gonna have to reset your priorities. Work on the FUN one first. 

The cap is a boat cap I know because I lost the cap went hunting for a new one and found the exact same one a boat parts store . I drilled a couple of holes in it to vent

Oh, that is a good one!

Have you looked at the tank vent? If it’s plugged the fuel pump could be lowering pressure in the tank until it equals the suction of the pump. Open the cap the next time you drive the car. If it’s harder to turn and makes a sucking noise you have a plugged vent. Do you have the correct cap? Do you have a non-vented cap on a fuel system that expects one?