Skip to toolbar

1985 BCW Rear Shocks

Home Forums General Discussion 1985 BCW Rear Shocks

Viewing 5 posts - 1 through 5 (of 5 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #232895
    Bob Bowen
    Participant

    @rsbowen

    I was given this numer for front shocks

    MONROE

    31538 with RockAuto.com .  I installed these.

    Does anyone know the Monroe Number for the rear shocks?

    TRW 80802

    #240700
    Dick
    Participant

    @dickh

    I use Monroe 32153 on the front and Monroe Gas-matics 32126 on the

    rear.

    #240701
    Bob Bowen
    Participant

    @rsbowen

    THANKS

    #240702
    chuck schmit
    Participant

    @chuckles

    The stock shocks for the front, 31538, have a compressed length of 14.125 inches. With the car ride height set to give 2″ of space above the front tires to the fender edge you end up with 1″ of travel before the shock bottoms out. (not good) The short shocks for lowered vw’s sold by Cip1 are 3 ” shorter and give a great ride. I had to make room for the right side tie rod to allow for the extra travel.

    The specs on the 32126 show a compressed length of 11.75″ and 7.6 inches of travel. I have not tried them out, yet so I can’t vouch for their performance.

    I’m at the point now of trying to eliminate rattles. I put pads under the doors so they don’t clunk on the door sill. Also put rubber under the radiator shell which also helped the fit of the hood. The whole front body assembly feels pretty loosey goosey on a country road.

    Any ideas out there?

    Chuck

    #240703
    Paul Mossberg
    Keymaster

    @pmossberg

    Hi Chuck,

    Yup. Get used to the noise! It’s a fiberglass, open car. Go out for a really long drive…and I mean really long. I drove my Duchess to Cincinnati one year, then to Indianapolis the next (from NJ). Once you do drives like that you become somewhat immune to the car noise. LOL.

    If the front body assembly really does seem loose, you probably need to get in there and check all the body panel assembly points. Some kits were bolted together; the body panels on others were riveted together. Either way, things can loosen up over time.

    Another trick is to shoot expanding insulating foam into the doors and into other hollow body panels. I read this a long time ago and never did it myself but it makes sense. If you’ve ever used this stuff around your house, you know when it expands and dries it is pretty solid stuff. You would essentially end up with solid core doors.

    Caveat – if you try this, make sure you still have access to body bolts, the bolts for door levers, etc. And be very careful when applying. It is awful, sticky stuff until it is done curing.

    Lift your carpet and take a look at what is under it. Dynamat and similar products are expensive…but will really deaden noise and make the entire car feel more of one piece. at a minimum, you want foil backed foam under the carpet.

    Paul Mossberg
    Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
    2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

    If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

Viewing 5 posts - 1 through 5 (of 5 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.