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new 54 mg kit car owner here! the car stumble a bit for awhile, then runs great….until it dies. then, it wont start for awhile. it appears to have spark while it wont start. plugs are dry. starting fluid wont get it going either during this hissy fit. sometimes if i pull one of the plug wires off alittle bit, it will fire and run ok, for a few miles, then it dies once again. it is a vw motor, not sure on size. im thinking its a coil going bad…works til it heats up and quits, cools and works…heats and quits…any thoughts? thanks!
Well from what you posted,you have constant spark?It sounds more fuel related to me.But check the cap and rotor and points first,unless there is an electronic module,then I would say thats the culprit.Mine went after 16 miles.Check for loose wires at the coil could have a bad blade connector.And for that stuff they call sarting fluid today,looks good on the shelf in the garage,doesn’t work like it used to.
Have you checked to see if you are getting gas to the carburator? When it’s pulling it’s hissy, disconnect the fuel line from the carb , crank the engine and see if gas is being pumped to the carb.The problem could be a bad filter ,bad fuel pump or stopped up gas line. I think you said you were a new owner, If the car set up for an extended period, the problem could be crud [deposits] in the tank.
I had crud in mine and it quit while doing 45 mph. Then wouldn’t start until I replaced the filter. No trouble since.
Starting fluid notwithstanding, I wonder if it could be vapor locking? Maybe have a look at your fuel line and see if it’s getting close to anything hot.
BTW, the motor is running pretty cool, right? Not too hot to pull and handle the oil dipstick?
thanks for the quick replys! cap,rotor,wires and plugs are all new and look perfect upon inspection. power to the coil is there and connections are solid. battery is dead and being charged currently…had to call the trusty tow truck to carry her home last night. the car does look dusty all over..like it HAS been sitting around. i will check into the fuel flow issue tonite.
Its a fuel problem oh my
, Having just went through this. (ask Schu) Pull the line from your tank and the line from your Pump and blow air back through. there is generally a T at tank side that the vent and line meet this plugs up
. half way down body there is a second point that the solid line meets the flex hose here is another point. and Finally the secret in the future is to run twin filters to keep crud out of motor, I’ld make them easily accessable because you want to chang these easily. I also put one forward of the T so I could catch crud before it hits line
and finally pull tank drain and clean otherwise this will be a reacuring problem.
Good Luck we have all delt with this enjoy and if you need help ask.Ok new information ,new problem.Why is the battery dead? too much cranking and wore it down?How is the charging system in the car?Take the battery in to one of your local major parts stores and have it load tested.Or better yet charge the battery and drive it over and they can check the whole system.It only takes one bad cell to give the sympoms you are having.
at work,itching to get the mg happy again. Battery was dead due to
excessive cranking….once its running ill make sure its all up to par. I
did stop by autozone the first time it refused to start, and the
manager even put cables on and hooked up to his new ford truck,
plenty of juice but just no fire. 3 more hours til freedom! Out of
curiosity, what kinda mileage are you all getting?
Welcome to the group!
My 2 cents, the gas could certainly be a problem and should be checked out, but I’ll bet the coil is going bad. I’ve had bad coils do the same thing on at least 4 of my cars (including my last VW and my Duchess) over the years. It’s cheap and should probably be part of your initial tune up anyway.
Good Luck, Ringo
Ringo40372.7733217593
I had the same problem when I bought my MG last September. The car had been sitting in a garage for a couple of years. I drove it home from the guy that sold it to me (about 35 miles) with no problems. the next day I had the same problems you did. My mechanic did a tune up and put in a fuel filter (it didn’t have one). It’s been running great ever since. I’ve put on a couple of thousand miles on so far. I get 28 to 32 mpg on the average.
Paul
will any coil work? Mg was built in 80. Also do they have any ballast
resistor or is full voltage going to the coil all the time?
Lets start easy, what year is engine, we’ll have this guys engine in pieces across his living room floor in no time. His nieghbors will come visiting and they’ll start calling him a hick.
The engine serial number can be found on the crankcase at the generator/alternator support flange. Note that “replacement” VW engine cases have no engine serial number. But I do think it would be kind of funny if he had to move parts around the living room so his nieghbors could sit down. How many times have we all done that.
H5446252 is the motor. Blew fuel lines out, removed front filter
temporarily, tore Carb down and cleaned it out, car starts and runs.
Haven’t taken it on the road but ran it for a good hour in the
garage….doors open of course…although I was getting sleepy.
Anyway, id still like to replace the coil, so hopefully one of “y’all” can
point me to my coil. Thanks tons!
Ok I didn’t spend alot of time looking but,I found the H5 to be 68-69 1500 engine.A coil at my local autozone is $28,price will differ at your location,their listing also requires the coil matched to the distributor number,but who knows if that has been changed on your engine.The good is any coil for the 68-69 1500 should get you going.
Ok, I still think a carb on the couch is the wy to go. If your interested I have a 66 – 69 VW service manual that I PDFed if you send me address Ill burn you a copy than you can print it out and leave it laying all over the house. PM me if you would like it. Note You definetly have to create draw to see if lines are clear Idle doesn’t take enough fuel.
According to Air Cooled . net , the ballast resister is built into the coil. Any other type will burn up the points .
ok, latest update….new coil, removed a fuel filter for the moment, blew out fuel lines, carb has been disassembled and cleaned. on a cold start, the car starts and runs just perfect, then as it warms up and the choke is opening up, it refuses to idle. even at a constant half throttle it will die from what appears to be fuel starvation. if i manually close the choke, it runs like it should. this problem should be with the carb im assuming…? i have 2 other carbs that need to be cleaned out, should i try a diff carb? getting closer to trusting the car on the road….almost…
Have you determined that you are getting a constant and sufficient supply of fuel to the carb? Could be that the line is clogging from crud in the tank or could be a bad fuel pump. Will it continue to run at half throttle with the choke partly closed? If the fuel supply is ok I would suspect the carb to be the problem.Unless you know that a different carb is working properly, it might not be helpful to make the change.
with the throttle half way or anyway, and the choke half closed, itll run and run. as soon as the choke is opened, itll starve and die unless the throttle is pumped and the accelerator pump gives it the shot of fuel it needs.
At this point ,based on the fact that it will run and run as long as the choke is half closed,I’m thinking the carb is at fault. Perhaps you missed a blocked passage when you cleaned it out..
ok, well ive had 2 different carbs apart, cleaned, and adjusted. for now it appears to idle, and seems to be running smoother than it has been. once i get some insurance, ill try out a road test.
still puzzled why the one newer carb will idle fine, and work fine as long as the throttle is constantly pumped. after 2 cleanings and all the passages blown out with compressed air, it still wont hold anything above an idle without stalling out or backfiring out the carb terribly. there isnt a whole lot to these carbs, its driving me slightly nuts. are these carbs really picky about being tuned exactly?Look under VW based kits, at the bottom of page one under carburetor ,scroll down and there is a link that gives detailed instruction on carb adjustment .
Does the carb have an electric ilde cut-off valve on the side of it? What carb is it?…30 PICT-3, 34 PICT-3 or 4?
This solenoid operated “valve” opens and closes the air orifice next to the throttle plate. Maybe it’s failed and that’s why it won’t idle.
Test by checking for an audible “click” when the key is turned on/off (courtesy of Aircooled.net)
It could also be a very small piece of debris in the pilot jet.
Sign up for: http://www.thesamba.com/vw and start asking questions on the appropriate forum. These are tried and true air cooled VW enthusiasts. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=56411
Pink MG40375.4812615741
My idle problem came down to an air leak in the rubbers on the intake manifold. those two ruber seals you see on each side of the carb start the engine and spray wd 4 around seals if it accelerates you have a leak. I couldn’t tune it enouigh to compensate for it. I haven’t found tuning to be that finicky. 2.5 out of the little one 1.5 out of the biggie. check for air leaks
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