September 22, 2010 at 10:38 am #233138buddyParticipant
The MGTD car rebuild is almost done. Repainted, new wiring, rebuilt suspension, overhauled transmission, etc.
I am now debating the engine rebuild, on a 1969 1600 engine.
1) rebuild it myself (stock)
2) buy a long-block, new or rebuilt 1776
3) need some input on quality re-builders, I am avoiding GEX in Alabama.
I appreciate any input.
BUDSeptember 22, 2010 at 2:05 pm #242346MikeParticipant
that 1600 will push your TD faster than you might think. The 1776 would be nice for sure. You are right to stay away from GEX. I have heard many horror stories about them. I have heard good and bad about MOFOCO, but way more of the + comments. You might do a search on the Samba forum for builders. Most of them will suggest doing the rebuild yourself as they are Vdub purists for sure.Its possible they may know someone close to your area that will build you an outstanding engine.
MikeSeptember 22, 2010 at 2:22 pm #242347Mark HendricksonParticipant
These guys are near Salt Lake City, but have a premier reputation. A nice dual port 1776cc longblock will make your car very peppy. Heck, a 1641 is adeqaute too. I’d have the block modified for full flow oiling and a remote oil filter too.
I have a set of dual port dual Kadron’s that I removed from my 1776 if you are interested. It’s complete, linkages, carbs, intakes, air cleaners. PM me if you are interested.September 22, 2010 at 10:34 pm #242348edward ericsonParticipant
er, what’s wrong with the existing motor?September 23, 2010 at 7:55 am #242349buddyParticipant
The existing motor sat in the garage of the former owner for ten years, with low oil. the former owner also said he had low oil pressure when he disassembled car.September 23, 2010 at 1:49 pm #242350edward ericsonParticipant
Just my opinion. If it’s in the car, get new plugs and wires, new points, condenser, test the coil to make sure it’s good, drain and fill the pan with thick “high mileage” oil (20-50?), douse the carb with something the gaskets might like–carb cleaner, say–and spray some wd40 around the inside cylinder walls through the plug holes before turning it over slowly by hand a few times.
Can’t remember if you can spin the oil pump through the distributer hole with this thing to pre-oil it. If so, do that. If not, squirt more ’40 in the plug holes, crank the starter with the plugs out for like 20 seconds to get the oil pump going, then rough-set the timing,
Then check your valve lash and put the plugs in it, feed it some gas and see if it starts.
If it does, read the old oil pressure gauge and see what you get. Might surprise you.
Obviously, if the engine is out of the car, you’d have to out it in to test it. In that case I might just pull the heads and start poking around for signs of damage, oxidation, parts out-of-tolerance, etc. But it’s more fun to just try to start it up. Nothing to lose, really–a few hours wrench time, maybe. Consider it good practice for the eventual “real” engine swap.
There’s something unspeakably fun about coaxing a real old, been settin’, left-for-dead engine to life–even if you ultimately reject it and build new.
Take vids. Post here. If you do get it running, and still opt for a MoFoCo crate or something similar, the vids will let you show the buyer of the old “rebuildable” engine that it, indeed, “runs.” That’s a couple hundred bux payback right there. Get you right back to “even” if you value your time, which, obviously, you don’t too much ’cause you’re futzing around with an old V-Dub kit anyways.September 23, 2010 at 2:36 pm #242351MikeParticipant
Ed what you say makes perfect sense. I also was thinking what the previous owner thought was low oil pressure may not be. Over at the Samba the general rule of thumb for stock VW oil pressure is 10 psi per 1000 rpm. Roughly 10 psi at idle and 10 psi for every additional 1000 rpm. The readings are taken on a warm engine temp. , not at start up. On older worn engines they will adjust the pressure with a heavier weight oil as you suggested. If the pressure does not come up to spec it may only need a new oil pump instead of a total rebuild. They also discuss how high oil pressure is not desirable as it can mean a restricted flow and oil needs to flow to lubricate. The vw engines are designed to bypass the oil cooler at start up by means of a bypass valve. This ensures critical componets get oil at start up and helps the engine oil reach operating temp quicker and reduce wear.October 1, 2010 at 3:22 pm #242352chuck schmitParticipant
I agree with Ed, it’s a lot of fun and usually rewarding to start the engine up -right now!
air cooled engines are the most fun cuz you can sit in a wagon and hook up a battery and a gas line and fire-away!
They sound really powerful with no exhaust system and the torque nearly tips them over when you rev it up.
Vw engines are cheap and easy to rebuild if the y have a good crank and case. I’m looking for one now just to play with!
chuckOctober 2, 2010 at 8:25 pm #242353Richard WobbyParticipant
I’m in for rebuild, Doing it myself this winter. Been buying up parts and calling in favors. Going to pull motor after thanksgiving.
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