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The “complete” kit I purchase certainly was not. Need the following if someone has some leftovers around their shop before I go to MGMagic
Headlight brackets
Badge bar
Radiator shell neck and cap
Door handles and all hardware
Hood hinges and latches
Mirrors
Seats, carpet, upholstery
Gas filler neck and cap
Top and side curtains
Thanks
Hey, Flip, sorry for your challenges. Your parts list should all be pretty easy to source though (with one possible exception), and so even though I don’t have any of the spares you need (or a Ford-based kit) I’m gonna jump in here anyway to make sure we’re clear.
Headlight brackets might be tricky or easy. At least one of our members made those for his car out of tubing. I believe he did it because he didn’t like the looks of the kit pieces, so he might have those. I believe that member was Gabor, and I hope he chimes in here.Badge bar is entirely optional. You can buy a nice one from Moss for like $70 or make one from a towel rack or a piece of stainless tubing. Boat supply companies sell good brackets to mount them. I’d leave this until after the car is on the road and sorted.Radiator shell neck and cap is my big question. Do you mean to say you need the whole radiator shell? Because if so, that’s a tough find. Repros do not exist* and originals are getting hard to find in any kind of driver condition. If you need this part expect to spend $800 or more for a fair example on ebay. If by neck and cap you mean the false nose on which the MG logo mounts you’re in luck. Sort of. Moss Motors has the cap for like $75. I could swear they had the false nose recently but checking just now it’s N/A. I found it at Brown & Gammons for–ulp–$225 or so.Here’s an ebay one for $60 that might get it.Door handles and all hardware might be unique to your kit so I’d go to MG Magic, hat in hand for that. But if they can’t deliver the good news is that the parts are available from Moss, $60 for new outside handles.Hood hinges and latches are easy. They are hinges you can get anywhere. marine grade stuff is probably most durable. You could also modify the kit to make them invisible by grafting a piano hinge on one side and getting a remote release system from a junk car. Looks neater, imho, but more work. My car has dummy original hood releases in the correct location near the bottom of the hood on both sides (part #14 on the Moss link above), which make me happy, though few people even notice them.Mirrors are really easy. Moss, again–#20, $20 each. Get the convex ones. If fender-mounted ones aren’t enough there are myriad aftermarket styles from which to choose. I’ve got motorcycle mirrors I got through JC Whitney mounted to the windshield brackets on my car. Your brackets are different but there are plenty of cheap and easy mirrors that will work.Seats, carpet upholstery so the kit seats are very primitive. If I were in your shoes I would be junk-yarding for solutions. Measure the tub across the area where the seat back is going, and look for a back seat from a sedan that will fit the space. Don’t worry about color–you can dye it or re-cover it. For seat bottoms, I’d go for modern buckets from a sporty car. With a Ford kit you should have the width you’ll need to fit several modern car seats. Bucket would be better for comfort and worse for authenticity. Carpet is easy. I bought for $100 a roll of black marine carpet from Home Depot. Any low cut pile will look OK. Loop is fancier than TDs ever had.Gas filler neck and cap: DONE.Top and side curtains are to be got at a boat shop. You’re buying adjustable bimini top frames and hardware–which is cheap, and then canvas or vinyl for your top maker to get you fitted up. This should run you $300-$400, at most. Or, as you say, MG Magic might have NOS stuff for a little less.*correction: MG Magic lists one, limited availability, for $900.edsnova2014-11-26 20:22:27
Somewhere in my garage are the headlamp brackets…PM me an address and they’re yours.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Hood hinges and latches are all marine hardware. So is the badge bar ( grab handle).
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"This original grill on ‘bay is looking cheap right now at $532 with less than an hour to go.
The original grille will require alterations to the lower portions of the fenders. There will be a large gap across the front also. See the photos in the thread ” Gone and Done it”. If you can do the ‘glass work it’ll look good.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Sorry it has taken me so long to respond. My address is 704 Shipwatch Drive Jacksonville Fl 32225. I will pay you a fair price for the headlight brackets Thanks
On my original post regarding the fake chrome radiator cover, all I am missing is the radiator cap and mount. Fortunately I have all of the remainder.
Flip
904 571 0026
Many thanks for all the information. Once I get these parts this baby will be ready for the road. I have the grill shell only need the cap and mount.
Flip
I have radiator grill nose pieces for the MG TD if anyone needs one. I only have a few left. Moss no longer produces these. $150 or best offer. Thanks. CLASSIC-LADY2015-09-10 03:40:34
Please post a pic. Not all these kits take the same grille shell.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"I can’t figure out how to post a pic on here but search MG TD Radiator nose and mine will come up on eBay. I have one listed as an auction and the other one is just a buy now item for $149 OBO. My seller name is IntegrityInNorthDakota. Thanks.
I searched your site and was unable to find any grille shells. You have posted several nose pieces that mount onto the grille shell, but that is all.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Hello all, HELP.. I should have followed the assembly manual step by step… but I have gone back to try to catch with things ie do them in order. It appears that i did not get a battery box or I don’t know what it looks like. I look at the drawings in the FF assembly manual and it just confuses me. I sure could use some help by way of a picture or description of this guy. Thanks, JohnnyB
Johnny, not to worry. You could almost certainly make do with a marine battery box. See West Marine or any number of other marine suppliers.
The battery box is a fiberglass tub that fits down into a cutout just in front of the gas tank cutout.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackFront engine Ford kit. Fiberglass piece that not only holds the battery but also fills the space below the cowl, finishing off the rear of the engine bay. Without that piece you will have to fasten a flat panel across the bottom of the cowl to cover that open space. Hint: leave an access door tor the pedal assembly. The battery you can place anywhere. If you choose to use the kit’s designed location, Roy may have the answer in mounting a marine box in that corner. Some older pickups had a battery tray that have large angle support brackets that might be able to be adapted. Be creative, you only see it with the hood up.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Thanks for the quick help everyone. I’m leaning towards billnparts way at first look. The only problem is that my donor and fiberglas body parts are stored on our farm in AL about 50 miles from my “assembly” area. But this way I can think things through as I drive to and fro. Thanks again, JohnnyB
Here’s what mine looks like after I moved the battery all the way forward to help the weight distribution a little. (VW kit) Wrecking yard battery tray (as mentioned), a bit of drilling and a small brace or two.
Don’t know how much it helped the weight distribution but it cleared the way for a more usefull underhood space. A toolbox resides their now.
Kall2015-09-24 16:49:09
Kall, his engine is up there.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"https://tdreplica.com/Manuals/FiberFab/ford_manual_p1_P42.pdf
This is the page from the assembly manual available on the left sidebar. It shows the part you need.
This part also mounts the heater and the master cylinder.These are two pictures of my installation.
Behind the master cylinder is the access panel for the pedal support.Hope this is helpful.
PMOSSBERG2015-09-25 23:54:23
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Thanks billnparts, I have a copy (actually 3 copies) but their pics leave a bit to be desired. Hey Kall if you think that’s a strange place to keep my engine you should see where my wife keeps me!!
JohnnyB
Mine is a Ford FiberFab and I had to modify the “Battery Box” to make it fit on the firewall / peddle mount frame. I slit the horizontal surface of the “Battery Box” from the drivers side end almost to where the battery sits. I opened the gap more than an inch to make it fit and then filled the gap with fiberglass. The pictures show what the “Battery Box” looks like and the modification that was done.
Don Loveless
Ford Pinto Fiberfab
Rochester, MI
Picture of Battery Box before modification.- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.