Fuel pedal

[mjilson]

Any tips on the fuel pedal, the 74 Ford one I have doesn’t look like it will work.
mjilson40042.9097337963

[Larry Murphy]

 Hi and welcome to the forum. Are you referring to a front engine replica? Ford or Chevette? My BCW Chevette based car uses the accelerator ,brake and clutch pedals from the Chevette but it is a very tight fit.It also uses the clutch and accelerator cables from the same car.

[Dan Rosa]

HELLO and WELCOME mjilsom ; what type of ford pedel? my TD is a chevy set up but ford should be close. with a bracket to the fire wall and cable to the carb.? a ford kit owner I am sure will post>>Dan R

[Paul Mossberg]

Welcome aboard!

My TD is VW based so I cannot help. But there are a bunch of smart people here and I’m certain you will get a response shortly.

If you are going to stick with us, click the link in my signature and let us know who you and your car are.

Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

[Rich Bellefeuille]

mjilson,

Mine is a 74 Ford Mustang II original accel. pedal and it works just fine. No problem with acceleration

Rich

[mjilson]

This kit is a Ford Mustang based kit._popupControl();

[Steve Crites]

Welcome to the group!

What specifically do you think won’t work on the pedal?

[James Cochran]

Mine is the Ford setup, but it is a bit tricky. You press the pedal that pulls on a cable that pulls on a horizontal arm that is connected to a vertical shaft mounted next to the carb, the vertical shaft rotates and swings a lever connected to linkage on the butterflies on the carb. Various springs on that arm return it back to idle most of the time. My petal is factory made, the rest looks like some kids science fair project gone wrong, but it does work. The main problem I have with my setup is the pedal only moves one half an inch down for full thottle. Too sensitive. I have to keep a light touch on the pedal. I want to re-engineer my setup to something more normal for vehicles we use on this planet. A friend of mine in Chicago has a Gazelle with Ford 2.3L with a normal installation. I’ll see if he can send some pics.

[Dan Rosa]

mjilson   sounds like the carb linkage is wrong or the placement of the cable should be further away from the fulcrum on the linkage. good luck   Dan

[Mark Hendrickson]

Welcome to the forum.

We’ll assume it’s a 2.3L four cylinder, and not a 2.8 V6. It sounds like you don’t have the OEM carb and/or intake on the motor if it’s a 2.3L

The OEM set up is a simple bracket that anchors the OEM Pinto/Mustang II cable. I’m sure you can find the whole set up, from pedal to carb, in a junkyard somewhere. Try some of the Pinto/Mustang II forums. http://www.stangnet.com or http://www.fordpinto.com/

Pink MG40043.7037268519

[gil goltz]

Pink MG,

Thanks for these two web sites (fordpinto.com) I have been looking on the internet for two weeks trying to find a set of valve covers for a 2.8L. And with your lead I think I found a set in Florida. Just hope they are still available.

sarge

[Mark Hendrickson]

Hey Sarge…GOOGLE did all the work! I can’t take the credit.

Hope you score those valve covers.

[mjilson]

Yes it is a 2.3 motor. It has the org. carb and intake. I cut the throttle linkage mount like the directions say, that turned out fine. The pedal it self doesen’t look like it will bolt up to the tub with out hitting the steering collum. The cable doesen’t seem to be long enough if I make a bracket to bring the pedal out to the driver. Thanks to all this looks like a great site and am looking forward to sharing my progress. mjilson40044.5472337963

[Steve Crites]

mj

Okay, now I know the problem is at the inside mounting. 

I checked my pedal and the bottom hole on the left of the pedal mount is close to the steering column but a good inch to the right and 1 inch below the column.  The top mounting hole is way over to the right of the column.  Not even close enough to the column to matter.

Check it with the mounting lower down on the firewall.  I had to put an extension on the pedal to make it lower to the floor so my feet wouldn’t catch on the brake during movement.  Don’t put the mount high on the wall or you’ll run out of foot room. Lower is better since you can use a short pedal, even a spoon type pedal to clear the floor but still give your foot room to get to the brake pedal.

If going lower on the firewall doesn’t work, post some pictures of what you’re running into and we’ll see if we can help from there.

Ringo

 

[James Cochran]

Be sure to space the pedals so your favorite driving shoe will clear. Mine just barely makes it with a hair’s thickness to spare. If my foot was any wider or my shoes any wider or any mud on my shoe, I would hit more than one pedal. There is not much room in width down there inside. The sides of my shoe drag on the right of the gas pedal and the other shoe drags on the left of the clutch side. Very narrow space.

[billnparts]

I took my pedal support and mounted it to a piece of angle iron and bolted it to the side of the tunnel to accommodate my big feet(size 13). Just make sure you have full travel without hitting the tunnel side.

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

[mjilson]

Thanks to all, I have some good suggestions to try and I will let you know how and what I do .

[Anonymous]

Hi mjilson thanks for starting this thread, I  also need tips on the fuel pedal..Thanks again.!

[Greg Stickney]

I just posted a note call throttle. Read that. Solved my throttle issues immediately.

Pictures on request.

Greg

[Author]

Posts