What's the Ball Joint Removal Trick

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  • #234261
    newkitman
    Participant

    @newkitman

    Like the topic heading says…what is the trick to removing ball joints. I have a ball joint removal kit and that was a waste of $$$. At the moment I’m beating on the end of the trailing arm and then beating on the ball joint. I get sweaty and sore muscles and the ball joint just stays there and laughs. What a pain!

    Allen Caron
    VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
    "If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The Shack

    #251394
    Paul Mossberg
    Keymaster

    @pmossberg

    But your getting a terrific arm and shoulder work out. I suggest you alternate arms for sets of ten swings. After that “pulling one’s hair out” comment, I shouldn’t offer any more help than that.¬†ūüėČ I’m not that kinda guy. But I will make you work a bit.

    There’s a ton of ball joint info linked from this thread on the Samba:

    http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=177433

    Paul Mossberg
    Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
    2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

    If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

    #251395
    newkitman
    Participant

    @newkitman

    Well after beating the ball joints until both wrists are weak, I came in and read your note. That tool they discuss is the tool I have. Supposedly it works great but didn’t do squat on the Ghia ball joints. Paid a mechanic a lot to replace them. I’ll try heating the trailing arm method tomorrow. That may work. A friend of mine says he puts the ball joints in the freezer and heats the trailing arm when he installs the ball joints. Not sure if I’d go that far but its a thought. Thanks for helping this OLD man with weak wrists (and smelly pits). Hope you get your TD running. You stand a better chance of driving it to Carlisle than I do but I’ll git er done in time.

    Allen Caron
    VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
    "If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The Shack

    #251396
    Paul Mossberg
    Keymaster

    @pmossberg

    You’ll do it.
    And so will I!

    Paul Mossberg
    Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
    2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

    If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

    #251397
    Rick
    Participant

    @rockyx

    Allen,¬† I know mine sat for quite some time before I got to them but I finally had to take them to a mechanic who used the hydrolic machine to finally break them apart.¬† By that point I had beat them so much and so hard I couldn’t lift the hammer any more.

    #251398
    edward ericson
    Participant

    @edsnova

    Yes, the “trick” seems to be to use a 10,000-lb press.

    #251399
    Tom Colello
    Participant

    @gunfighter

    Easiest thing to do is take them to a front end shop. They can press the old ones out and the new ones in in short order. Or if you know someone with a press you can do it yourself. Be careful.

     

    #251400
    Scott A Chynoweth
    Participant

    @1oldbuzz

    The trick is

     

    When you have the ball joint under pressure with the tool; tap-don’t beet the outer area of the arm and squirt a little penatrating oil.This has always worked for me even on very stuborn joints.If you have a bench vise clamp the ball joint tool in the vise works even better,provided the trailing arm has been removed from the car.

    You did remove the C clip that holds the ball joint?
    #251401
    newkitman
    Participant

    @newkitman

    Thanks for the tip 1oldbuzz. I got the 1st one out today. Here’s how I’ve been doing it.

    1.  Remove trailing arm.

    2.  Remove clip holding ball joint boot and remove boot.

    3.  Install trailing arm with ball joint in clamp which is secured in vice.

    4.  Soak ball joint with PB Blaster, wait 4 hrs and do it again. (Did that for two days)

    5.  Apply pressure to ball joint and let sit for 1 hour. Soak in PB Blaster and wait another hour.

    6.  Apply more pressure and wait for the joint to break free.

     

    Today around noon the first one finally popped out. Following the same procedure with the other 3. All soaking in PB Blaster for the moment. 2nd ball joint is in c-clamp with pressure installed and soaking in PB Blaster. I’ll have to tap on the side of the trailing arm whiile the pressure is applied.

    Allen Caron
    VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
    "If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The Shack

    #251402
    Paul Mossberg
    Keymaster

    @pmossberg

    I’m leaving my ball joints right where they are, thank you very much!
    Although this soaking in “PB Blaster” thing….is that some sort of “enhancement” technique?

    Oh wait. You guys are talking about your cars, aren’t you? Ooops. Sorry! Embarrassed

    Paul Mossberg
    Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
    2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

    If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

    #251403
    Scott A Chynoweth
    Participant

    @1oldbuzz

    Good one paul

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