Home › Forums › MGTD Kit Cars › VW Based Kits › What's the Ball Joint Removal Trick
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Scott A Chynoweth.
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August 13, 2012 at 6:22 pm #234261
Like the topic heading says…what is the trick to removing ball joints. I have a ball joint removal kit and that was a waste of $$$. At the moment I’m beating on the end of the trailing arm and then beating on the ball joint. I get sweaty and sore muscles and the ball joint just stays there and laughs. What a pain!
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackAugust 13, 2012 at 6:32 pm #251394But your getting a terrific arm and shoulder work out. I suggest you alternate arms for sets of ten swings. After that “pulling one’s hair out” comment, I shouldn’t offer any more help than that. 😉 I’m not that kinda guy. But I will make you work a bit.
There’s a ton of ball joint info linked from this thread on the Samba:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=177433Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
August 13, 2012 at 8:49 pm #251395Well after beating the ball joints until both wrists are weak, I came in and read your note. That tool they discuss is the tool I have. Supposedly it works great but didn’t do squat on the Ghia ball joints. Paid a mechanic a lot to replace them. I’ll try heating the trailing arm method tomorrow. That may work. A friend of mine says he puts the ball joints in the freezer and heats the trailing arm when he installs the ball joints. Not sure if I’d go that far but its a thought. Thanks for helping this OLD man with weak wrists (and smelly pits). Hope you get your TD running. You stand a better chance of driving it to Carlisle than I do but I’ll git er done in time.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackAugust 13, 2012 at 10:26 pm #251396You’ll do it.
And so will I!Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
August 15, 2012 at 3:40 pm #251397Allen, I know mine sat for quite some time before I got to them but I finally had to take them to a mechanic who used the hydrolic machine to finally break them apart. By that point I had beat them so much and so hard I couldn’t lift the hammer any more.
August 15, 2012 at 5:10 pm #251398Yes, the “trick” seems to be to use a 10,000-lb press.
August 16, 2012 at 5:28 pm #251399Easiest thing to do is take them to a front end shop. They can press the old ones out and the new ones in in short order. Or if you know someone with a press you can do it yourself. Be careful.
August 18, 2012 at 5:29 am #251400The trick is
When you have the ball joint under pressure with the tool; tap-don’t beet the outer area of the arm and squirt a little penatrating oil.This has always worked for me even on very stuborn joints.If you have a bench vise clamp the ball joint tool in the vise works even better,provided the trailing arm has been removed from the car.You did remove the C clip that holds the ball joint?August 18, 2012 at 4:27 pm #251401Thanks for the tip 1oldbuzz. I got the 1st one out today. Here’s how I’ve been doing it.
1. Remove trailing arm.
2. Remove clip holding ball joint boot and remove boot.3. Install trailing arm with ball joint in clamp which is secured in vice.4. Soak ball joint with PB Blaster, wait 4 hrs and do it again. (Did that for two days)5. Apply pressure to ball joint and let sit for 1 hour. Soak in PB Blaster and wait another hour.6. Apply more pressure and wait for the joint to break free.Today around noon the first one finally popped out. Following the same procedure with the other 3. All soaking in PB Blaster for the moment. 2nd ball joint is in c-clamp with pressure installed and soaking in PB Blaster. I’ll have to tap on the side of the trailing arm whiile the pressure is applied.Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackAugust 18, 2012 at 6:11 pm #251402I’m leaving my ball joints right where they are, thank you very much!
Although this soaking in “PB Blaster” thing….is that some sort of “enhancement” technique?Oh wait. You guys are talking about your cars, aren’t you? Ooops. Sorry!
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
August 19, 2012 at 5:45 am #251403Good one paul
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